The big level will be more accurate, and easier to use, than the small one. $30 to install the small one sounds outrageous, but is fair even at the low end of labor rates (for RV tech, ranging $50 to $130 an how). Maybe 20 minutes to position and accurately level the 5er, then 5-10 minutes to install the levels. If you know how to use a torpedo level, and have one, and have a place where you can level the RV, this could be a DIY job.
Installing that switch is definitely a $65 job, and not something you would want to tackle yourself unless you are familiar with cutting into and re-sealing RV walls, and working with connections on very large power cables. A knife switch that bolts to one of the battery posts might by a DIY job, if you can easily get to the area where you would have to work. It would not be as convenient to use.
alleghany nf camper on 05/09/08 01:07am wrote: I think your a little confused here when talking about a level as a tool yes bigger is better but not more accurate.
No, not confused. A 3" level (which is the small stick on one he is talking about)that is even a 1/32" off will be off 1" in 8'. It's not the bubble, it's the mount that it's on. Hence a bigger level IS more accurate because it measures a larger distance.
If properly installed this makes no difference and they are equally accurate.
06 Chevy 2500HD reg cab
06 Chevy Trailblazer ext V8
02 Dutchman 29 Q Sport
Army Vet, German Wife, 1 Boy(10), 1 Girl (5), and a little Mutt Dog
jeffnkelly wrote: Just be sure of 1 thing... Make sure the unit is level by leving to the INSIDE of the fridge. Do this BEFORE you put on ANY level checking tool
I took a 4 ft carpenters level and leveled our old TT F/R then Side to side. THEN I checked inside the fridge BEFORE sticking on the level. that way when the bubbles say "0" I know for certain it was level...
My $.02 worth...
YMMV
BINGO...We have a winner! The fridge is the most important level, this is what the rest should be driven off of because the fridge must be as level as possible for optimum operation.
Okay, PUH-LEEZ keep the giggles and laughter to a minimum! I'm REALLY new to this "hobby"...
I would love to permanently install my little levels (sticky tape) on my new trailer, but how do I know it's level to begin with, before I mount it? What I've been doing, is just "assuming" the front and side windows are level and using their frame edges...
Regards,
Michelle
PS: let the snickers begin...
2008 Fun Finder X-160
2006 Toyota Sienna Limited
Equal-i-zer Hitch
Prodigy Brake Controller
...I would love to permanently install my little levels (sticky tape) on my new trailer, but how do I know it's level to begin with, before I mount it? What I've been doing, is just "assuming" the front and side windows are level and using their frame edges...
Use a carpenter's level or similar to get the fridge level. That is the place where level makes the most difference. Then apply the small stick ons. We put ours on the front by the tongue, one on front and one on the side. Most refrigerators will still work fine if they are off level by an inch or so. The small stick ons are accurate enough for that. The other leveling item that may or not apply to your rig is the shower. Some drain better if slightly leaning one way.
Other gadgets to consider adding over time are the maxx air vents, extra outdoor lights, additional 12v power receptacles, beefier screen door latches, carpeting for the steps, extra battery if you don't already have two, foam pipe insulation around the water lines where they pass thru walls (for noise reduction), non skid tape on the ladder steps, and I am sure others will post additional suggestions. As you can see many of these are cheap and easy to do yourself, others may require some mechanical or electrical skill.
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Log off and go camping!
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A torpedo level is good too, they are inexpensive and short enough to fit in the fridge easy enough as well as accurate enough for these puropses. Hope this helps.
alleghany nf camper wrote: ... I'd go with the small one because they stick on with double face tape and don't require holes to be drill in your new 5er. ...
You should still use screws. If you don't the level will shift over time, particularly if you go someplace with high temperatures.
I like the little Hoppy levels with the markings that show how far you have to adjust things. The big one is for putting on the front of a trailer and be able to see using your rear view mirror.
I use a 3' carpenters level on the floor of my PUP (fridge sits on the floor) to level side to side as well as front to rear. I use the lynx leveling blocks under my 'low side'.
You will need essentials such as: wheel chocks, leveling blocks, white potable water hose, pressure regulator, possibly a filter for your hose, sewer hose.
As to those nice stick on level indicators, you might want to use an additional adhesive - mine slid slightly after being sun heated and road winded/vibrated, and this was the first year of use - they've both dropped of since.
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