While taking some measurements on my 2001 3/4 ton Suburban I found that the front end left side sits lower than the right side by almost an inch. Is this the way it should be? It looks like it could easily by brought to level by adjusting the torsion bar on the left side.
Also, I noticed that I am sitting right on the bump stops in the front - not hard pressure on them but touching. Does this seem right?
Third - the Suburban sits about 2 1/2 inches lower in the front in relation to the rear. This also looks like it could be changed by adjustment to the torsion bars (would likely need an alignment afterwards). Is this the way it should be or should I bring the front up to level with the rear?
As far as towing goes, I use an 'Equalizer' (brand name) hitch that corrects for any leveling issues that the geometry of the suspension may be causing.
On a related but separate post, I have questions about the 'Autoride' feature if you care to take a look.
Couple of things....many of the guys on the GM truck forum have "cranked" the torsion bars to level the truck when empty and fit bigger tires under the wheel wells.. You could do the same to the burb. I am not a fan of this. The rear leaf springs in the truck are designed to carry a lot of weight, hence the 8,600 GVWR and 12,000 lb tow rating. the truck will sit level when under a load, but have a forward rake when empty.
Regarding the lean, sound like something is not right there. I know the gas tank is on the left side of the truck, and when full with 38 gals will produce about 1/2" lean on mine when measured from the rear. I have not noticed any affect on the front though.
Also, you should be sitting close to those bump stops not right on them when empty. You may have a defective torsion bar or possible it just needs to be adjusted. I would take to the dealer or a good suspension shop and have them check it, and get an alignment while you're there. FYI, if you do decide to crank the torsion bars to level the truck, you will need an alignment afterwards to adjust caster/camber.
A 2001 Suburban is the new body style compared to my 1996.
From your year on, the front suspension for 4x4 torsion bar setup has
the front bumper stops touching as the 'norm'.
Hence the old rule of thumb: "even drop" does not apply as you can not
get even drop any more. Just get the front to drop to it's unweighted
height.
The front not being even is more common than most think. Both as it
comes from the factory and after many miles (both from wear and that
the set screws 'might' back off).
Cranking up the IFS 4x4 torsion bars will raise it, but will also move
the spring force into a much higher rate of it's rate curve. The ride
quality will be much harsher.
Also, the over all travel remains the same, but it will hit the bottom
stops sooner, so less travel in that direction.
I do NOT recommend any shock mounted spring systems. The shock mounts
are *NOT* designed for that kind of loading. I've had to run with
a log(s) stuffed inbetween the frame and axle tube on my old 1970
Toyota FJ40 when the rear air shocks blew out while out in the boonies.
Took about one whole day more to get out of there, as the log kept
falling out.
Also have broken the bottom front shock mount on my 1996 Suburban.
Just performance shocks and no springs of any sort, so can't imagine
added more loading to an already questionable shock mount.
Picture is of my Sub's shock mount just before I welded it back on.
So if it can happen to this shock mount when just shocks were used,
then think of what might happen when more loading is on this bracket.
* This post was
edited 05/09/08 10:32am by BenK *
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...
Here are some links to old, old threads where this came out...that the newer
4x4 GMs has the front IFS bump stop touching all the time, which makes it a
secondary spring system.
Back to rf's questions...is it time for him to bring his rig into a good suspension and alignment shop to have everything returned to like-new status?
I'm free of prostate cancer for 5 years now.
All men over age 50 should get an annual PSA blood test. Mine had a low reading, but the yearly jump was significant. The biopsy showed cancer just entering the aggressive stage. Dr. Hackenslash removed it.
Thanks for the replies everyone. It seems then that my front height compared to rear height is the way it should be. The fact that I am resting on my front bump stops is normal. The only change I will make is to get my front end level right to left. I will give this a try when I decide to get new tires and alignment.
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