Big Katuna
Deland, FL
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Joined: 12/27/2003
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Norcold 1200 L RIM, 2005 unit. Cooled fine all weekend, got home, went out a few hours later and it was beeping and getting warm. Display read "no co" which I looked up in the book. It said to turn the fridge off and back on but the code came back. Manual says if it comes back to take it to a service facility. The coach may have been off level. It didn't seem that far off but I hadn't put the jacks down yet.
I did a search but "Norcold no co" did not return any results.
Is there another way to reset it?
Once you can accept the universe as matter expanding into nothing that is something, wearing plaids with stripes comes easy.
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Chris Bryant
DeLand, Florida, USA
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Joined: 03/26/2003
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I've got instructions here for older (most) models, and for new versions the instructions are here.
-- Chris Bryant
My RV Service Blog
The RV.net Blog
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JFG
TN
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Joined: 07/01/2007
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no co
Fred
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Big Katuna
Deland, FL
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The reset fixed it. I used Chris's Norcold PDF procedure since it had a picture of the board and it was identical to mine. The second post grounded out a different pin (11) from Chris's (15).
At any rate, thanks and now I am better educated. If it happens again I think I'll put a push button switch in.
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nwcamperguy
Washington
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Joined: 04/22/2008
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Go to this site, http://www.bryantrv.com/docs.html. They have everything you need to fix your problem. I recommend downloading the entire service manual as it is much more in depth. I had the same problem and it fixed it right up. FYI, I was told that the reason I got the fault code in the first place was because I didn't precool the unit with AC or Propane; DC does not have enough juice to cool just maintain. Unit goes into fault mode after awhile of no cooling.
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Big Katuna
Deland, FL
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Hey NWcamper guy; read the post just before yours.
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dougrainer
Carrolton
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Big Katuna wrote:Hey NWcamper guy; read the post just before yours.
Just curious, I know the answer, but do you? WHY did it throw the NO CO code? Anybody? Doug
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Big Katuna
Deland, FL
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Not really. I read that if your not connected to electricity and you run out or shut off your propane it will do that. Also if you leave the door open? Which we don't think happened. The coach was a little off level; I hadn't put the jacks down yet. Stack got hot?
Please enlighten us oh wise and knowledgable guru.
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dougrainer
Carrolton
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Big Katuna wrote:Not really. I read that if your not connected to electricity and you run out or shut off your propane it will do that. Also if you leave the door open? Which we don't think happened. The coach was a little off level; I hadn't put the jacks down yet. Stack got hot?
Please enlighten us oh wise and knowledgable guru.
The NO CO is thrown when SOMETHING is wrong for a properly operating RV refer to cool correctly. IE--Cooling fans inop/ventilation blocked or partially blocked/Off Level/inadequate LP or 120 electricity. ANY parameter that stops a normal cool down cycle. It locks out (NO CO) the refer. You have 1 try at turning off the refer and restarting after the first NO CO. IF the NO CO problem has NOT been corrected, the 2nd NO CO is thrown and the refer is locked out completely. THAT is why Norcold does NOT want the NO CO reset procedure to be published and they will NOT give the procedure out to the retail customer. They want the NO CO problem fixed. The NO CO is a cooling unit protection, to keep from destroying a cooling unit because you keep running it with a potential fault. I tell customers to think of the NO CO like your car OIL pressure light. You get a red fault light and your oil is full so you get a reset procedure from the Car Maker to turn off that light. Every time the Oil light comes on you reset it and then down the line your engine locks up because you did NOT fix the problem that caused the oil light to come on. You then blame the Car maker for building a lousy engine. FIX the problem when you get a NO CO code. If it locks out after the 2nd try, YOU did not fix the problem and the refer is saving itself in spite of you. Doug
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Big Katuna
Deland, FL
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Thaks for the info.
Then it sounds like it was off level. When I reset it, it was still off level. I read Chris's manual then looked up the stack. It also had ran fine all week. The reset worked fine and it was making ice in a few hours. No damage done.
I'd rather smash my thumb with a hammer than take it a dealer if I didn't have to. And I am guessing that the dealer would have looked up the stack, performed the reset and charged me $100?
Not to mention $50 for #2 diesel.
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