I need to adjust the leveling of the TT and I am curious if it is safe to put the entire load on the stabilizers for less than a minute while I toss under the tongue jack more blocks?
Basically bring up the tongue jack, slip under more blocks then put the tongue jack down to take the weight off the stabilizers.
You will bend the rear stabs or rip the sheet metal screws holdign them to the frame out.
All things in moderation, except acceleration!
Zip ties, the duct tape of the new milenia!
2001 F250 Powersmoke turbo diesel, 3.73LS
Crew Cab, SRW, SB, 6 inch lift, Single 28 inch semi airhorn underneath! SCMT, A Pillar mounted, Pyro, boost and Trans gauges.
2005 Wildcat 29RLBS, Prodigy, 2 EU2000i's Draw Tite 18K Signature Series, front receiver, on board air, Airlift HD airbags
2003 Ford Explorer XLT 4X4, V8, 5sp AT, 3.73LS
2003 Ford Explorer Eddie Bower 4X4, V8 5sp AT, 3.73LS, Dual semi air horns underneath
I do it all the time with no problems. I have a very heavy duty frame under my TT, and the scissor type stab jacks rated at 3000 lbs each. Many do not..Depends on your TT. Better check your owners manual or with the Manufacturer.
If my electric tongue jack does not go high enough to get level, I run it almost as high as it will go, crank down the front stab jacks, run the tongue jack back a bit, add a block or two and raise the TT to level. Then I reset the front stab jacks properly. I keep the rear ones up until the TT is level, so they have no effect.
Not a TT, but I've had a similar situation with a cargo trailer, which had no stab jacks. When the tongue jack couldn't raise things high enough, I cranked it as far as it would go, then I put a firewood log vertically under the A-frame next to the jack as temporary blocking, and retracted the tongue jack. Then I put blocks under the tongue jack, and cranked up some more.
Maybe something like that might be safer than overstressing the stab jacks? Just make sure the trailer is chocked securely, and the temporary blocking is stable. You should use something more secure than a log (like I did) as any side load on the tongue could cause it to fall.
2007 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 40PDQ 400 ISL Cummins/Allison
2002 Chevy Avalanche toad
Inside: Him, Her, and a pack of little furballs...
Chuck
Wonderful Wife
Lovely German Shepherd.
1999 Mercedes ML320 TV
2003 Wanderer 187TB Toybox (3620# UVW, 4800# loaded) Not yet camped in Hawaii, 4 Canada Provinces, & 2 Territories. I can't be lost because I don't care where this lovely road is going
Yes it is OK assuming they are BAL... BAL rates them at #5000-#7500 each depending on model... Just make sure your on flat, level ground so the TT does not rock back on them and bend either their sheet metal or the TT frame or sheet metal mounting... I routinely hold up the front of my #9400 TT with them and they don't even strain or groan...
Leveling jacks provide leveling and stabilizing for travel trailers and fifth wheels. Two models extend from 4" to 23-3/4", and one model extends to 30". Given the broad range of ground-to-frame clearance, there's a BAL leveling jack for almost every RV.
The Deluxe Leveling Jack includes a patented roller-bearing assembly for smooth and easy screw operation.
The Standard Leveling Jack provides a sandwich construction bearing design to assist in screw operation.
Tooth gear design of the scissor arms ensures straight line vertical extension and retraction.
Double lead, acme thread drive screw is designed so the jack raises quickly and the crank handle turns easily.
When placed in the handle receiver, the crank handle can be easily rotated, even when tilted.
Rust-inhibitive E-coating on the jack and shiny zinc coating on the crank handle ensure long life.
Mounting hardware is included; jacks may be welded to trailer frame.
2000 Ford F-250SD, XLT, 4X4 Off Road, SuperCab
w/ 6.8L (415 C.I.) V-10/3:73LS/4R100
Banks Power Pack w/Trans Command & OttoMind
2006 Nomad 3150 Double Slide (Bunkhouse)
Hensley Arrow
Jordan Ultima 2020
LAdams wrote: Yes it is OK assuming they are BAL... BAL rates them at #5000-#7500 each depending on model... Just make sure your on flat, level ground so the TT does not rock back on them and bend either their sheet metal or the TT frame or sheet metal mounting... I routinely hold up the front of my #9400 TT with them and they don't even strain or groan...
Leveling jacks provide leveling and stabilizing for travel trailers and fifth wheels. Two models extend from 4" to 23-3/4", and one model extends to 30". Given the broad range of ground-to-frame clearance, there's a BAL leveling jack for almost every RV.
The Deluxe Leveling Jack includes a patented roller-bearing assembly for smooth and easy screw operation.
The Standard Leveling Jack provides a sandwich construction bearing design to assist in screw operation.
Tooth gear design of the scissor arms ensures straight line vertical extension and retraction.
Double lead, acme thread drive screw is designed so the jack raises quickly and the crank handle turns easily.
When placed in the handle receiver, the crank handle can be easily rotated, even when tilted.
Rust-inhibitive E-coating on the jack and shiny zinc coating on the crank handle ensure long life.
Mounting hardware is included; jacks may be welded to trailer frame.
Thanks for your input LAdams. However, my driveway is (unfortunately) not flat and on a slight slope See Here Is it still possible to do as you suggest? I was thinking of putting some car jacks to help out with the weight. What do you think?
LAdams.. Those are exactly what I have on my Komfort. They came standard equipment. Along with a frame that is built like a tank.
That combination is why I can get away with it, where many lightweight trailers with lighter frames and Stab jacks might be damaged doing this.
JayflightG2 My driveway looks like that also.. I really make sure that the wheels are double chocked (Bal Deluxe and regular truck wheel chocks) before I do it.