jbowen
Michigan
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Joined: 05/12/2008
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We have a 2005 Keystone Cougar 301BHS. I just took it out of storage ahead of a planned weekend trip, but the slide out won't even try to move. There is no motor noise, no click, no nothing.
I checked all the fuses in the panel. I checked continuity through the motor underneath. I checked the switch on the wall. I checked, and double-checked, to make sure I hooked up the battery the right way. All 12v lights work, with or without the shore line plugged in, so I think the system is OK.
I assumed early on that the motor was bad, but I was surprised to find that there was is no 12v power at the motor (checked with meter while wife pushed the button to 'slide out/in' the slide). Is there a hidden breaker somewhere for the slide motor? Any help is appreciated...
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Joy
Henderson KY 42420
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Joined: 08/10/2001
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When our 5ver did that, my call to the service tech told me where to look. Ours had relay switches mounted on the side wall of the storage area under the bathroom. Is there a box with fairly heavy wires entering/exiting anywhere in your storage areas? After taking off the cover, there was a tiny switch on the side of one of the connector boxes - pushed it the opposite way and everything was good again. May not be your problem but something to look for anyway. Hope it helps.
See ya' down the road!
Don-SCPO USN Ret.Corpsman
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LIFE ISN'T ABOUT HOW TO SURVIVE THE STORM BUT HOW TO DANCE IN THE RAIN.
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USAFBILL
Alabama
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Joined: 09/20/2002
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Some have an in-line breaker in the cable right up from the postive battery terminal. That is the way my Cougar is wired.
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BobJoh
Whitestown, IN 46075
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Joined: 05/23/2004
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keep it plugged in to shore power so the batteries can be fully charged and it may work. Enough power to operate the solenoid and keep the circuit closed. Maybe... try it.
BobJoh
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donawilcox
Taylor TX
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Joined: 02/13/2008
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If you are not getting power to top of the unit then look see if you have a breaker. If you do not know it has a reset on the bottome you would not know. Mine is down with the battery and the motor. hard to explain but on the bottom or the side there is a little trip switch. just feel all sides and use a test light on both sides. If power to the top of the unit then just get a good charge on battery and have it plugged into truck with it running and should work. These motors pull more amps than truck can carry or the inverter can handle. I just learned this on my rig a few weeks and thanks to others on this forum that is what came out of my issue.
Don Wilcox
Taylor TX
2006 Duramax 4X4
2007 295 Cherokey by Forest River
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jbowen
Michigan
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Thanks everyone for posting...I'm still working on this. The shoreline has been plugged in for almost 48 hours now, and the battery seems to be fully charged. Tonight when I got home, I tried the slide's switch, and it worked (the slide-out started moving out) for about 1-2 seconds; then it stopped. I released the switch, then tried it again, and it worked for another second or two. After that, the motor wouldn't activate until I pushed the switch to the 'close' side, then it started coming in (only for another second). Switching back and forth repeatedly between 'open' and 'close', I was able to work the slide out a little at a time until it was about 2/3 open...and that was it. No more power.
Based on that episode, I'm assuming there probably is not a breaker or reset switch that needs attention. The fact that the motor worked at all probably means the power lines are open.
The slide's motor acted like it just didn't have enough power to get the job done (like it often does when the battery is nearly dead). Does that motor draw its power from the battery regardless of whether the shoreline is plugged in? If so, maybe my battery isn't _really_ taking a great charge (just enough to turn on lights)? Could running the slide motor for a few seconds drain the (weak) charge out of the battery, or would the shoreline power step up and help?
Maybe I'll take that battery in tomorrow and have it tested...
I almost forgot. To test the motor itself, I thought it'd be clever to connect wires directly from a battery to the motor's leads. Sure enough, as soon as they were connected, the motor whirred to life. Switching the wires reversed the motor, as expected. The problem is that within 5-7 seconds of connecting the wires, they (the wires) became _red hot_. I couldn't hold onto them any longer, and I was worried about a fire. So, maybe that wasn't such a grand idea...is giving the motor 12v directly from the battery different than pushing the switch inside? I must be missing something there.
* This post was
edited 05/14/08 07:39pm by jbowen *
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wa8yxm
Wherever I happen to park
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Joined: 07/04/2006
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ON my intruder I have a serious problem with the slides.. Cheap control switches
That would be my first stop (After fuses) on the inspection tour.
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
John is Near Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
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4UMLRKR
NORTHEAST
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Joined: 02/25/2007
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I HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM. IT WAS DUE TO A CORRODED NON-RESETTABLE CIRCUIT BREAKER. THIS PLACES A HIGH RESISTANCE IN SERIES WITH THE LOAD & CAUSES A NASTY VOLTAGE DROP.
I HAD ADEQUATE CONVERTER OUTPUT VOLTAGE, & MY BATTERY WAS 100% WITH A HYDROMETER. I TESTED THE BREAKER & FOUND THE PROBLEM.
WHEN I REPLACED IT, IT FELL APART IN MY HAND. I WISH I TOOK PICTURES OF THE RUST INSIDE IT.
GOOD LUCK.
I'VE FELT THE COLDNESS OF MY WINTER....
I NEVER THOUGHT IT WOULD EVER GO....
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