Asking for anyone to respond that has experience or advice with Steering Stabilizers.
Equipment:
- Ford 1993 Clubwagon XLT van (based on E-150 van), 130,000 miles, power steering etc, 4.9L/300ci 6 cyl.
- Mechanical condition OK checked by reputable auto repair shop, brakes checked and replaced as needed.
- Tires new or like new, same brand/model as original factory equipment.
- Aligned several times, settings to minimize sway as much as possible.
- Shocks replaced as needed, heavy duty in rear, springs ok, ball joints replaced, etc.
- Tow (sometimes) 28FLS Ultra-Light Flagstaff trailer, Goodyear Marathons.
Problem:
- Swaying side to side, hard to keep in straight line, both van by itself, or with RV Trailer attached (2 sway bars tightened just below start of “chattering/popping”). Tends to follow every rut, uneven area and hole it finds in road, drifting side to side with about 5 second period using about ¾ of lane width. Appears to be underdamped, and steering has a slight delay and “overcorrects”.
- Tire pressures set per factory pressures (42 psi) and also higher (50 psi) per alignment shop advise, but no difference in sway response.
- When towing trailer (weight and CG of trailer about where it should be), swaying of van causes trailer to also sway causing premature trailer tire failure.
Possible solution?
- Possibility of installing Steering Stabilizer in Van forward suspension system (I noticed them on Class A and C rigs) to reduce/dampen sway of Van and trailer.
- Since these are too expensive (over $1,000 L+M) just to “try it out” has anyone had experience with this swaying and installing a stabilizer? Did it correct the swaying?
- There are both active/adjustable, and passive/non-adjustable, versions - any preferences?
The front end alignment is not fully adjustable on your van. I think they can only adjust the toe. There are was to correct the caster and camber on the van but most places don't do it. If the caster is off the van will pull.
Have you rotated the tires on the van. Sometimes a tire can cause problems with the handling. Rotate the front tire to the rear and see if the ride is the same.
I have scene Ford trucks and vans with bad ball joint that cause problems you described. Jack the van up in the front. Disconnect the outer tie rod end and see if the wheel turns right to left without any effort. If one side binds up you may have to change the ball joints. You can buy an after market steering stabilizer for a lot less money and install it yourself.
Dmax 27
2001 2500HD LS D/A crew cab 6 1/2 box
K+N filter, Borla 4" s/s exhaust, Edge Juice/Attitude, Rear
Air Ride load levelers, 285/75r16 Bridgestone Dueler REVO
2002 Cedar Creek 33RLTS 5TH Wheel 2006 Fourwinns 220 Horizon 280 HP
Thank you, thank you all for responding. BTW, I'm posting to Towing vehicles and also Tech issues, some folks read one or the other, hope it's ok.
First, I failed to say that this is not a new problem, the Van has had the wandering problem since we bought it new in 93. I first used it with a lighter trailer so it never showed up in trailer tire wear. We bought this Forest River Flagstaff 28 FLS new in 2000 and had numerous problems with it. Wrong frame, axles misaligned, cracking fiberglass, etc. It made 3 trips back to the factory to correct/replace walls, floor, etc. I'm a retired Mechanical Engineer and speaking to the factory engineer we uncovered the cause that a smaller frame was used (5" instead of 6") on the entire series (including Rockwood)by the frame sub-contractor rather than what the drawings called for. After all this commotion was finally corrected about 2 years ago, my trailer tire problems continued so I began looking closer at the van-trailer combo.
A suggestion of a possible loose PS box was made, thanks, I'll have that checked.
Another suggestion was to look at the tires. Since the swaying issue existed through tire rotations, replacements, etc I don't think it's any tire in particular. Also, since the P series tires that came with the new van were rated at 2185# at 41 psi (I carry 50) and the LT series for 15" rims are 1985# at 50 psi, does the P series tires have a higher load rating than the LT?
The ball joints, etc were all replaced as needed but the problem existed from day 1, so it doesn't seem that wear is the problem.
The $1,000 Steering Stabilizer price are the Blue Ox and Monroe that RV dealers carry. Are they "better" (whatever that means) than the $200 ones you mentioned?
Again thanks for any help.
I suspect your issue is alignment despite having it done a couple of times. I had a 1980 van with the independent swing axles (does your's still have them). It wondered around until I went to a truck alignment shop that had the tools to actually bend the axles to provide more caster. After that, it drove fine. Make a few phone calls and find a shop that can change the caster angle.
Mark
2000 Itasca Suncruiser 35U on a Ford chassis
2003 Ford Explorer toad with US Gear brakes,
ReadyBrute tow bar, and Demco base plate.
I'll be the first to admit that I'm not familiar with the terminology and names of the suspension parts of autos (I can design the hell out of equipment that installs payloads into the Space Shuttle, but auto suspensions, - )
Anyway, my van has round bars that come from the steering unit and go to either front wheel, and have threaded ends for adjustment. There also are 2 twin beams (castings, tapered I-beam cross sections) running side to side which have the radius arms attached and have the front struts attached. Are these the "I beams" you refer to? These have never been adjusted, only worn bushings replaced and standard alignments done.
I originally had a 71 Ford van (tires wore) and had the I beams adjusted (bent?) and never had another problem with alignment after that. I may call the truck alignment shop in Orlando (Josam Truck alignment) who replaced/aligned trailer axles.
I am a tire store assistant manager at a company in Metro Boston. In the early 90's we did a lot of I-Beam bends to correct camber as I recall, but I don't think it adjusts caster. If you have a printout from you last alignment and can scan it into the system you can get some good help from various people in this forum. Caster is the value you really want to key in on for directional stability. When it is correct the steering wheel returns to straight ahead and the vehicle tends to go straight.
I'd find someone who is really proud of his alignment skills and has been at it for many years. Let that person check for ball joints, bushings, everything. If it has been that way for years there has to be something loose or crooked.
I've seen complaints like yours resolved by control arm bushings, aftermarket stabilizer bars and steering dampers and just plain dogged determination to find what's not up to spec.
05 F150 FX4 Supercrew, 5.4, 3.73 LS, Jordan Ultima 2020 Brake Controller,
04 TrailCruiser 30QBSS, XM Cradle, Battery Disconnect
Dual Cam HP, Ultra Fab Power Tongue Jack, Bal Lockarm Stabilizers
And by the way, that is a perfectly good vehicle. The 4.9 is a nice torquey engine and wel suited to your use.
Does your steering box have play? That can give you wandering even with good tire wear and nice cornering. Is your van a conversiontype? If so is it heavy? Is it heavier than the GVWR on the door placard? Overweight vehicles won't handle well. Also, since you said the problem is both with and without the trailer I didn't ask this, but do you have your trailer weight distribution dialed in? I am assuming you do.
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