jeffcarp wrote: What about running on 120V through the inverter while driving? Does that increase the cooling better than 12V?
LVJJJ wrote: we turn on our frig a day or two before we are going to leave, set it on propane and the coldest setting. whole frig is freezing when we're ready to load it. the 12v is only good if the frig is already really cold and only while driving, all it will do is maintain the current temperature, unless you are in the desert and then it don't do much. we leave the propane on all the time while driving and leave the frige on. to keep the flame from blowing out I blocked the front 3 vents with insulated aluminum tape so air doens't blow in and blow it out.
we use the yellow leveling blocks, so far only needed 10. found the orange ones (Lynx) too fragile and the raised portions protrude into the tires too much (not good). the yellow ones seem a lot more stable and don't scoot around as much.
Never thot of that but it would probably work, it's just that propane is the most efficient way to keep things cold. Whilst travelling thru the hot desert we've found that we gotta keep the frige on "5" and on propane all the time. Last month in Palm Springs even when on shore power we selected propane cause 120v didn't quite do it. But I do like the idea of running it off the inverter while traveling. Thanks, I'll try it.
Jeff Carp asked: What about running on 120V through the inverter while driving? Does that increase the cooling better than 12V?
The 12 volt heating element in these fridges has a lower power rating than the 120 volt element. Therefore, the fridge should cool better on 120 V with an inverter when driving, instead of 12 V. OTOH, here in the cooler climate, we've found 12 V cooling to be more than adequate.
I really don't think it's good practice to drive with the propane running. It might be "safe" until you're in an unfortunate collision. My 2 cents worth.
There has been some comment about running the fridge on 120V power, from the inverter.
I wonder if any of these rigs are wired so that power from the inverter can be used to energize the circuit that the fridge is plugged into. On my 2004 RT 190P I think the only circuit connected to the inverter is the one that feeds the electronics / tv cabinet. Does anyone have other information?
I would guess running the fridge would not be a problem if running it off a true sine wave inverter. A lot of devices will not work properly or at all on a Modified Square Wave inverter. Some will over heat and self destruct.
I have also read some reports from those who run inverters while driving that the engine computer starts acting funny and causes driveability issues.
I have not had issues doing this when my laptop was my MP3 player. My cell phone sometimes will cause my fuel and temp gauges to fluctuate wildly, right before it rings. Never underestimate the power of electrical noise/inteference.
fromday2 wrote: There has been some comment about running the fridge on 120V power, from the inverter.
I wonder if any of these rigs are wired so that power from the inverter can be used to energize the circuit that the fridge is plugged into. On my 2004 RT 190P I think the only circuit connected to the inverter is the one that feeds the electronics / tv cabinet. Does anyone have other information?
I was the one that suggested running the fridge off the inverter while driving. My "B" is a 2002 RT 190P and it had no inverter at all when purchased. Today the LCD TV, microwave, fridge and a toaster/convection oven can all be powered automatically from an 1,800 watt inverter (but not the microwave & convection oven both at the same time). When the inverter is switched on, an ATS (automatic transfer switch) switches the above circuit from the generator/shore power to the inverter automatically. When running the fridge on AC you are only heating an electrical heating element so a MSW inverter is no problem at all. Power for the the inverter is coming from the coach batteries, not the engine battery so it will have no effect on the engine computer(s).
Ever since we started Rv'ing in the '80's, we've always left the propane on in our TT's while traveling so the fridg would work. So, we do the same thing with our RT. We have never had a problem leaving it on and I think the danger is over-hyped by the doomsday do-gooders, particularly with the better safety systems built in to propane tanks. Here in Washington State we have many ferry boats on Puget Sound which require propane tanks to be shut off, they give you a red tag to tie onto the tanks when you turned them off. Now, they give you the red tag, but don't care whether or not you turn em off. A lot of the ferry employees say it doens't really matter any more so I just leave the red tag on the dash. Don't think I want to risk messing up my electronics by running the fridge on inverter (if it even will run off the inverter).
LVJJJ wrote: I think the danger is over-hyped by the doomsday do-gooders, particularly with the better safety systems built in to propane tanks.
Well, I've never thought of myself in this way!
I'm just not comfortable driving on the highway or city roads with the fridge running on propane. That's why, in their wisdom, Dometic, Norcold, etc., provide a 12 V option. I don't believe they do it so that you'll save propane; they do it for safety.
We do, however, often switch the fridge over to propane when registering at a campsite, and drive to the site with it on. But this is a big difference from driving on the interstates, etc.!
I don't know how RT's are wired, but if you're alternator charges your coach batteries via a solenoid, and not a diode, when your vehicle is running, then you have one big battery.
The solenoids parallel all batteries soon at it gets 12 volts from the ignition.
As was pointed out to me, it's not that the propane tanks aren't safe, it's the open flame. When the refrigerator is on propane there's an open flame. That open flame is quite dangerous in some places. For instance, you're driving along the freeway with your refrigerator on propane. You stop at a gas station to get some of that expensive stuff you run on. Suddenly your open flame is in the presence of the possibility of gas fumes.
VE3ESN wrote:
LVJJJ wrote: I think the danger is over-hyped by the doomsday do-gooders, particularly with the better safety systems built in to propane tanks.
Well, I've never thought of myself in this way!
I'm just not comfortable driving on the highway or city roads with the fridge running on propane. That's why, in their wisdom, Dometic, Norcold, etc., provide a 12 V option. I don't believe they do it so that you'll save propane; they do it for safety.
We do, however, often switch the fridge over to propane when registering at a campsite, and drive to the site with it on. But this is a big difference from driving on the interstates, etc.!
landyacht318 wrote: I don't know how RT's are wired, but if you're alternator charges your coach batteries via a solenoid, and not a diode, when your vehicle is running, then you have one big battery.
The solenoids parallel all batteries soon at it gets 12 volts from the ignition.
All recent Roadtreks made in the last 15 to 20 years (help me with these dates) are wired with an isolation diode(s) device between the engine and coach batteries. With the isolation diode(s) between the two battery circuits there is no way for the coach electric circuits to discharge or have any effect on the engine electronics. In a RT they do not use a solenoid (which is nothing but an electomagnetic switch) to parallel the coach and engine batteries which can result in a totally dead engine battery.
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