JudoFisherman
South Carolina
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I am sure this has been discussed several times, but I am having trouble using the "search" feature, and thought someone here probably knows all the answers.
I have a Coleman Williamsburg 1989. It does not have very good ground clearance, and I have bottomed out the back of the trailer a few times going up or down my driveway. Also I think it would make it much easier to get the stabilizer bars down.
I had an old Jeep and wanted a little more clearance, so I disconnect the leaf springs, undid the u-bolts and bolded the axle on the bottom of the springs. Can I do this on my PUP? What is the best way to do this?
Will I run into any problems doing this?
It should give me about 2.5 inches of lift, and help level the camper while towing.
any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks Rob
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PapPappy
Wilmington, NC
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Joined: 12/23/2007
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I don't see why you couldn't do it. You might have to make some changes to the brake lines. And maybe carry an extra step for getting in/out. Is the trailer towing level when you are hooked up to the TV? Maybe you need to get a drop down hitch, to level things out? If you do change the axle, you will also have to change the height of the tow ball.
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JudoFisherman
South Carolina
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I do have electric brakes, but I am not using them. My TV is a Toyota Siena and I already have a drop down but it still makes the trailer ride nose high. another couple of inches would help. the step up is pretty low to the ground already and I think I would like it a little higher anyhow.
Will I have to do anything to the break lines if it is electric?
Showing my total ignorance but I have no idea how electronic breaks work. I don't plan on using them, but I still want to have them if I ever decide to tow this thing through any real mountains.
Thanks for the response.
Rob
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MAJESTYPOINTERS
MONROE, MI.
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Joined: 04/08/2008
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The only problem you would run into would be if you had brakes on the axle...if you have no brakes you can just turn the axle and use the existing spring perches....done it my self to plenty of utility trailers....if you have brakes you will have to weld on new perches on top of the axle tube...as you probly had to do with the jeep spring over conversion...I have done a lot of those too...Just be sure you don't make things top heavy....that will have to be your call based on the rest of the trailer..
You can't just flip an axle with brakes because then everything would be upside down and backward....ie mag. at top would now be at bottom and front shoe would now be at back....It does matter as some brake set ups are made with one shoe longer....It is just best to leave the axle with brakes as is and add the flat perch to the top.
* This post was
edited 05/14/08 01:25pm by MAJESTYPOINTERS *
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MrPressure
Texas
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What about any camber that is built into the axle?
Is there any? Not enough to worry about?
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MAJESTYPOINTERS
MONROE, MI.
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MrPressure wrote:What about any camber that is built into the axle?
Is there any? Not enough to worry about?
The trailer axle should be at 0 all the way around...caster, camber, and toe... I have seen some that for some reason (either pot holes or built that way I don't know) had some toe in...tires slightly in at the front...but that did not seam to cause anything other than weird tire ware...
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Scott_C
NJ
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Joined: 07/04/2007
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MAJESTYPOINTERS wrote:if you have no brakes you can just turn the axle and use the existing spring perches...
HUH? The axle itself has beam camber, you shouldn't just spin an axle 180 degrees and roll on it. That camber is designed as part at the load carrying capacity of the axle. This is different than wheel camber.
2008 Shamrock 21SS
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mike4947
N. Syracuse, NY
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Scott is correct, the small axles we use do have a built in camber. As for raising the trailer Dexter and some aftermarket sellers offer a new spring perch kit that allow you to put the spring on top of the axle for around $30. Most axles actually get a 3-4" rise.
So you do lose some extension on your stabilizers, gain the height on the door step, and last but not least you will need a new drawbar.
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Pete D
Washington
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If you call it a Spring-Over (springs over the axle) it makes more sense than flipping. Dexter sells a kit -- They call it Over/Under-Slung. They recommend tack welding the bracket to the axle so it won't roll.
They also recommend limiting the spring travel in the new position to the same as it was in the old position so they aren't overextended, break or otherwise fail.
I recommend you get the brakes activated as they will turn a few white-knuckle incidents into casual stops and will lessen the brake wear on the tow vehicle brakes (rather do a trailer brake job than a TV brake job).
Ford owner's manuals remind that the brakes are designed to stop the GVWR, not the GCWR.
BTW, if you can raise the trailer to be somewhat level with the TV, you'll find less wind drag.
1998 Ranger 4.0 4x4
1991 Scamp 13'
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Taplep
Atlanta, GA
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I had my 08 Fleetwood Utah flipped last year at the dealer and it has solved my problem of bottoming out on my driveway. They installed a kit and the whole job was about $125.
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