Hi all, I just got my rig back from a reputable repair place which spent 3 days looking for an electrical problem they couldn't find! The situation is that I can't dry camp because my battery goes dead within 2 hours. I can use it to bring down the electric front stabilizers and bring out the slide, and I get about an hour of lights. Until recently I could also run the heat for one round, but not anymore. I have had the battery tested 5 different times, and each time it tests fine, even under load. The repair shop tested every circuit, the inverter and the converter, to see if there was a draw on the electrical system somewhere. They found nothing. They basically returned it to me and shrugged their shoulders and said they couldn't find anything that needed fixing, though they did not doubt that the problem I was describing to them was true.
Does anyone have any ideas about what's going on with my rig? Is it possible the battery can test OK but still not hold a charge? (The shop said it was not possible.)
If it makes any difference, I am traveling in a 2005 Titanium 5th wheel. I haven't had any other problems with the coach.
Try removing the ground lead off the battery. Does it hold a charge over a few days?
What is the voltage reading on the battery when the converter is on and the trailer pluged into 110 volts.
Just some things to try on your own.
First, find out if there really is an unusual drain on the battery. With all lights, TV antenna amplifier, etc. turned off, disconnect the positive terminal and place an ammeter between the cable and the terminal. It should read less than 100 milliamps, 0.1 amp. The problem you describe would require a drain of several amps. Many inexpensive multimeters will measure both a few milliamps and perhaps 10 amps. I doubt there is such a drain, but if there is, it shouldn't be too hard to find. Pull all 12 volt fuses, one at a time, checking with the ammeter each time. If that doesn't find it, look for a wire rubbing some chassis member so it has made a semi-short circuit. Wires that go into the slide would be likely suspects.
If there is no heavy drain, replace the battery and your problem will go away.
On edit: Be sure to check for battery drain with slide in and out, stabilizers in and out, steps in and out. If there is one, it has to be a wire making an almost-short circuit.
* This post was
edited 05/15/08 03:06am by Caseydon *
If you are planning on depending on your battery for dry camping you really need to consider purchasing and learning how to use a DC clamp on Ammeter to easily check discharge and charging currents. With this type of meter there is no disconnecting any cables just clamp the loop over the battery cable.
Dick
* This post was
edited 05/15/08 10:16pm by dclark1946 *
A GOOD correct sized Deep Cycle battery will NOT go dead in 2 hours regardless of load. Since you state you have both a Converter AND an Inverter, I would say the Inverter is a low watt (less than 700) watt Inverter? Your setup should include at least 2 batteries. 24 series is the minimum and if space available use 27 series batteries. IF the battery tests good (HOW are they testing it?) then it is NOT the correct battery for your RV system. Doug
You meantioned "battery" in your post. Please tell us what type of battery, amp/hr. rating, etc. I ran into someone, camping last weekend, who ran down the battery on Friday night. It ends up the dealer threw in a free battery for his trailer. The battery was a small automotive battery, not even a deep-cycle battery. In spring and fall when heating is needed, you can't expect to get through a 2-day weekend even with 2 x 12v 80 amp/hr. batteries. Two 6v golf-cart batteries (225 amp/hr.) would do, but having a generator to recharge batteries, and run 110v AC power would be better.
Mark
Mark & Jan "Old age & treachery win over youth & enthusiasm"
2003 Fleetwood Jamboree 29
dougrainer wrote: A GOOD correct sized Deep Cycle battery will NOT go dead in 2 hours regardless of load.
I can suck a pair of U-220's dead in 30 minutes or less (As the pizza joint would say) however I would know why it happened. The proper size battery for the device that does this is 2 pair of U-220's by the way, which I could suck down in an hour. So it's possible.
That said.. I do agree that there is something wrong.
I would question the test the battery place did on the battery. Many of use (Myself included till very recently) just assume the battery place has a good tester and does the proper tests.
NOTE: for a pair of U-220's or T-105's this is still a bit small, however it will work well for most smaller batteries (up to around 150 amp hour) and if a pair of U-220's tests bad... They bad
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business John is Near Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
wayne_tw wrote: Battery, battery, battery. My money is on the battery. It needs replacing. Start with the simple stuff first.
Ditto, Ditto, Ditto.
I've been working with 12 volt batteries for 30 + years now. The service shop most likely was able to determine it was getting a charge as well and not finding a significant drain.
I have seen batteries check perfectly before and last literally 20 minutes once the headlights were turned on. I could set my watch by it. At 20 minutes the voltage would just drop. I surmise there is a connection inside the battery that is opening up.
Another weird battery issue was in a vehicle in the parking lot that we could jump start but as soon as they tried to drive off the vehicle would die. The alternator was putting out plenty of voltage. We substituted the battery with an old one we had and they drove off with a smile on their face.
Batteries can drive you crazy. In order to run a battery down in two hours you need a heavy current draw. Usually something that will blow a fuse or let the smoke out.
On many many occasions I have had customers bring vehicles to me that had just come from the dealer or their mechanics. My equipment being accused of drawing to much "voltage". So we do the normal "current draw" check, alternator check, then load check and specific gravity check if possible. Once our equipment is shown to be in specs and the alternator is doing its thing we often just replace their battery. We are not a battery dealer but get tired of the finger pointing. I make the challenge, "if this does not fix it I will pay for the battery". Haven't had to buy one yet.
Now all this said, a diode in an alternator can cause a severe battery drain but this is extremely rare but easy to diagnose. This is not your issue though, just thought I would add it to those that say yeah but I had this issue.
My money is on the battery as well. Charge it fully and let it sit for a day or two, check it for charge. It may have a bad cell. I use deep cycle Interstate bateries in my boat and trailer and haven't replaced one in several years. I do bring them inside during the winter months and put them on a battery tender. Good luck.
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