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 > Wheel chocking question...

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twinsmom04

BC Canada

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Posted: 05/15/08 07:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ok, someone took off with our brand new (cheapie thank goodness) sewer hose and our new wheel chocks.. Those too were the cheap ones... glad we didn't buy those expensive ones.

Anyway... gave me thought that we should of pulled forward slightly onto the wheel chocks for more security of stationary trailer AS WELL as more security for thieves. We are new to this whole thing with the new trailer. Anyway, are you supposed to pull forward a bit onto the wheel chocks so that they are slightly wedged under the wheel?

I had wanted to buy one of those wheel chocks that go between the tires and lock but the distance between our tires is way too far apart for the commercial ones.

On a slight side note... those homemade chocks with the 4X4's... is there a max distance\length that you can make the 4X4's to prevent movement? I still have to measure the distance between the tires on the inside but I'm guessing it would be about 2 feet. The board length I need under both tires is about 6 1/2 feet in length for leveling if that gives you a visual.

Thanks


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skipnchar

Topeka Kansas USA

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Posted: 05/15/08 08:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you're using the wedges and just drop them behind and in front of the wheels you've just wasted your time. You are absolutely correct that you need to pull up ONTO the chocks then place the other side of the wheel and let the RV find it's own home. It should be sitting ON both chocks when properly set.


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Scott_C

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Posted: 05/15/08 08:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

.


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NHguy

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Posted: 05/15/08 08:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Skipnchar has it right. And to add, get it levelled side to side first.


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MaddogBC

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Posted: 05/15/08 09:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

For the wedge style drive on type i saw a mod on this site where a fellow added a strap that the tire sat firmly on to prevent theft.
For the 4x4 type I'd guess if it's good solid wood and crank, longer lengths would work fine. Mine are about 10 inches long and i use an old pipe clamp to crank.

Where did the lowlifes make off with your stuff? It's a shame cause who other than another RV'r would need a sewer hose?

Good luck

Rob

twinsmom04

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Posted: 05/15/08 11:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks guys... guess I did it wrong with the old 16' er... So, I guess if I wanted to go out by myself I could (after leveling of course) drive up onto the chock, set the parking brake and then go slip the rear one in, put tranny in neutral and release the parking brake. Will get a strap too

Rob, that's what I originally thought when it was just the sewer hose I didn't see... who would want a sewer hose and a cheapie one at that... but then who wants cheap wheel chocks.. anyway, they are gone, and I learned a good couple of lessons And the trailer was parked in a locked compound at my dh's work... but still accessible by foot. It's at the bottom of our street and across a field which is really convenient for us...

Sewer hose and all the parts are in a tote in the front storage.. And I got a decent one too... all's I need now is a hose for doing the back flushing.

Thanks all Sure is nice to have such a friendly informative board to be home RV message board home

Roy T

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Posted: 05/16/08 04:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You can do what you want. If those cheapskates want something, they tear up whatever they have to in order to get it. All you can do is hopefully make them think twice.

Hornet28BHDS

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Posted: 05/16/08 08:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Pulling ahead a bit can't hurt.


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