We are going to change all four tires, where is the best place to put the jack stands? Should we put the 50T jacks under the axles, or under the frame, will the frame support the weight while we remove all four tires? Should we put down the rear scissor jacks and front electric leveler jacks as well?
Harry, Karen, and Mom
Sandy, Sassy, Missy, and Candy
Ford F350, Ext CC, PSD, SRW, LB
99 Mobile Scout 33RLTS
I just replaced all 4 tires on my 5er. I hooked up my truack to the 5er and retracted my front legs completely, They're fragile and may have bent with pressure on a tilt, raised the rear stabilizers as well. Used a bottle jack on the frame near each axle - the book says not to use the jack on the axle. Since I have 2 spares, I put a spare on one of the empty hubs on each side of the 5er when I removed all four tire to give the RV some stability. If I didnt have two spares I would have used a jack stand on the empty side for stability. Then I took the old tires- all 4 at one time - to the tire dealer for the new tires. The point I guess you're after is I left the truck attached to the 5er as I did all this to provide support and stability and act as a pivot for the 5er as I changed each side.
I think Jrebhun's way is good. Do NOT use the scissors jacks to hold up anything; they are designed for stability only (and not very good at that either) they are totally inadequate as a supporting device !!!!
Use your truck to support the front of the RV and 4 jack stands to support the trailer, two on each side fore and aft of the axles supporting the FRAME. Never jack on the axles or use them to support the trailer from underneath, you could bend the tube causing mis-alignment issues.
You can jack at the axles if you have the axle tube on top of the spring pack. You would be jacking on the center of the spring pack mounting plate. This really isn't too much different than jacking up the rear of your truck.
However, if your axles are flipped, then you are going to have to jack on the frame of the trailer. If you have an I beam frame, no problem. If you have a frame made with steel tubing, then you need to have something to spread the load better on the bottom of the tube (or you risk putting a nice dent in it).
Carriage Cameo 33CKQ | 08 GMC 3500HD CC LB Duramax Dually | Sam the Cat and the Labs | Best wife going
Hook up to the truck, as stated above. I would change each tire individually, jacking only one at a time. I jack at the axle as close to the wheel as possible. If the wheel can support the weight, then jacking there is not a problem. Just do not jack near the axle center.
Jacking individually allows the other wheels to help support the remaining weight of your trailer.
My AL-Ko manual advises that you support the axle, near the wheel, or suspension on a stack of wooden blocks. Rather than jack stands, which could sink or fail.
2006 F350 V10 4X4 SC SB SRW 4.30 22,500 GCWR
Keystone Sprinter 33'9" 12,500 GVWR
Pullrite Super Glide 18K
Super Duty, Super Cab, SuperGlide
Wow a 50 ton jack When I had my tires balanced I connected the 5er to the truck and raised the front and rear jacks and I lifted the trailer by the axles under the spring mount just enough to get the tire off the ground and put a jack stand under the frame right next to the spring mount then too the wheel off and let the axle hang down. I then took all 4 wheels to be balanced.
Papa Bob
1* DW "Granny"
1* 2008 Brookside Sunnybrook 32'
1* 2002 F250 Super Duty 7.3L PSD
Husky 16K hitch, Tekonsha P3,
Firestone Ride Rite Air Springs, Trailair Equa-Flex, Champion C46540
"A bad day camping is better than a good day at work!"
First off the front jacks are quite capable of holding up the trailer on level ground. The only danger is if there is a slope or you are blocking too high. I personally jack on the frame mear the spring shackles and place jack stands fore and aft of the axleson both sides. Most trailers have a square 2 inch piece welded to the frame that is attached to the spring shackles. This is the strongest part of the frame. Put the jack stands on it if possible.
When we lift a trailer in our shop, we jack one axle at a time using a 6x6 wood block under the spring plate and place jack stands just in-board of the spring mount plate. If your rig has the Mor-ryd suspension, you have to lift this way. If you jack it from the frame, the spring just swings out of the Mor-ryd box on one end and the tire stays on the floor.
luvlabs wrote: You can jack at the axles if you have the axle tube on top of the spring pack. You would be jacking on the center of the spring pack mounting plate. This really isn't too much different than jacking up the rear of your truck.
However, if your axles are flipped, then you are going to have to jack on the frame of the trailer. If you have an I beam frame, no problem. If you have a frame made with steel tubing, then you need to have something to spread the load better on the bottom of the tube (or you risk putting a nice dent in it).
Register (at least) "one in disagreement"!
Best solution if in doubt is to check your manual!
(The one for your trlr -AND- for the axle mfgr)
Never have found one that says to jack under the axle/s - no
matter where you locate the jack!
Now - maybe you want to "risk it" for whatever reason.
Or - your manual/s say something different.
Murphy always says:
Hey, whatever rings your chimes . . . or bends your axles.
JC
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When I had my tires balanced I connected the 5er to the truck and raised the front and rear jacks and I lifted the trailer by the axles under the spring mount just enough to get the tire off the ground and put a jack stand under the frame right next to the spring mount then too the wheel off and let the axle hang down. I then took all 4 wheels to be balanced. 
