Tress
Virginia
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Joined: 07/22/2007
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Here we go again, some of you may by now recognize me, im in the midst of doing converting an 84 E-350 4x4 Pathfinder conversion, she's a beast! sorry but i dont have pics to post right now. Either way one of the things im about to get into is the propane setup, i have already bought (2) Manchester horizontal tanks and mounted them under the rear of the van with an access panel in the floor just in front of the rear doors. From here im going to run 3 lines, 1 to the rear, 1 to my water heater and 1 to the front counter for cooking (under the van for the most part). My question is what do i need? i mean of course i need a regulator but from here im not entirely sure. could i get away with just buying the pre-made hoses from someone like Camping world and then get some splitters to re-route each line, or is it more complicated then this? I know the heater needs low pressure and im pretty sure the camping grill does as well but im not sure about the water heater. Either way, im just wondering if there is something im missing, also can i do this myself? Are there any stickers or inspections i need to get showing it was done correctly?
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vic46
Red Deer, Alberta, Canada
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Joined: 09/13/2007
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A GAS FITTER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Tress
Virginia
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Joined: 07/22/2007
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Ya i guess that might be the best way to go, just trying to save some money you know. Who does this sort of thing anyways, just RV dealers?
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Hallibagger
Picton, Ontario, Canada
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Joined: 01/09/2007
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Domestic propane furnace installers could do the job.
Most of the 'plumbing' is done using copper pipe and pipe fittings. Propane pipe usually has a yellow plastic cover (in Canada).
It is not rocket science, avoid vibration situations which might work harden and then fracture the pipe. Make sure the pipe is adequately supported to avoid any movement. Ensure that any penetrations through steel are grommetted.
I would put a shut-off at each appliance.
Test all connection points with soap and water. If in doubt have a knowledgeable contractor inspect it after you have finished.
All RV appliances run at the same pressure, usually 10" or 11" water gauge. Read the manuals!
Have fun!
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vic46
Red Deer, Alberta, Canada
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Joined: 09/13/2007
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Tress wrote:Ya i guess that might be the best way to go, just trying to save some money you know. Who does this sort of thing anyways, just RV dealers?
Look in the Yellow Pages for an LPG supplier or service facility in your area or an outfit that does gas fitting. Another alternative is to ask your dealer, but, try and do this outside the dealer as the cost will be far less that way. I understand saving the $'s but LPG makes a real mess in the case of an explosion. I would also expect that your insurance company would not look too kindly on a loss that involved an LPG incident in the event they establish that the work was not done by a qualified gas fitter.
Vic
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VernM
Marion County, AR
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Joined: 06/21/2006
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While you're at it, why not convert the vehicle to propane power? There are commercial rigs that run on it. Not as efficient as gasoline or diesel, but cheaper per mile.
VernM
GMC Conversion van/Wells Cargo MiniWagon trailer
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midnightsadie
ohio
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Joined: 01/07/2008
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best bet is find a lpg guy that will work on the side/ guys that deliver those house tanks ,should know some one , its his expreince you want more than the labor ,
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lzcamper
Thousand Oaks, CA
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Joined: 10/28/2003
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I'm also building a camper in my van and the propane tank is installed, but not hooked up. I was going to run a solid copper line up through the floor and split it inside the van into two lines, one to the refrigerator and one to the furnace. A friend, who has built van campers, said (for safety reasons) to split the line beneath the floor before you run the line inside to the appliance. As mentioned before, protect the line where it runs through the floor with a grommet, a piece of garden hose or something that the edge of the entry hole will not chew through.
Rick
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vikx
Washington State
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Joined: 08/03/2006
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Most newer rigs use black iron 1/2" pipe underneath and tee off with 3/8" brass flare fittings and copper up to each appliance. Your water heater is low pressure, stove as well. Most camping grills (BBQ grills) are high pressure, tho some will run on regulated low pressure.
Rubber hoses underneath are not legal in most states. They are too vulnerable to damage from road debris. Also, they are not used to go into the coach to appliances.
I agree with the above. Be careful, have your work inspected and pay for what you are not totally sure you can do safely. It's not worth the risk. VK
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bananadanna
Cambridge, MA
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Joined: 11/30/2005
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Tress & lzcamper,
Did you guys cut access doors for the fill tube on your tanks? My used, minimally converted Sprinter came with a Manchester tank hung just low enough to access the fill fitting. It was a PITA because of the poor clearance. It also meant the propane tank cut my ground clearance by a couple of inches. It had a guard bar with a ding in it. The first time I touched that guard bar I decided to rip out that tank. It definitely would have been better and safer to have the tank tucked higher and an access door cut for it.
The outcome in my case was to use a Espar diesel heater and enough batteries to run the much better Engel ac/dc fridge and a microwave and induction burner. I do have a vented, gasketed propane cabinet inside for a 20 lb bbq tank since we prefer to cook and bbq outside as weather permits. Absolutely no regrets about skipping the propane plumbing.
Dan
02 Freightliner Sprinter 2500 long tall home brew conversion
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