BarneyS
S.E. Lower Michigan
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Joined: 10/16/2000
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ddav15 wrote:I jack up my trailer tounge just enough so there is no tension on the pen when I pull it out, then just drive out. By taking the tension off the pin it pulls out easy and there is no sudden bang when you pull up. The tounge weight of the trailer is resting on the jack. What's so complicated about that?
Not complicated at all IF you disconnect or take the tension off of the WD bars first. Otherwise, it would be almost impossible.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch
2002 Ford F250 Super Duty, 7.3L PSD
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Spinerozmatwirl
Ontario
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Joined: 05/25/2006
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We have a fairly small unit and discovered that the area under one of the Dinette seats made a good storage spot. It's a pain in the neck to use for every day stuff, but perfect for the hitch and the bars. I copied someone from the forums idea and made a bag for the bars from an old pair of jeans so we don't worry about grease.
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scout3399
raleigh nc
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Joined: 05/05/2008
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I put a 2nd l bracket with a hole, behind the propane so i turn the bar around pin the bar to the 2nd l bracket and attach their l bracket so all the hardware is pin in to place can't loose it
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Dutch Oven Man
Tennessee
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Joined: 05/10/2007
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I found the perfect solution to storing the bars and head. I took the bags those cheap fold up camp chairs come in and store my bars in those. While the bars are still mounted to the head, I slide the bag over the bar, disconnect the bar and then take bag and all and store in the forward compartment. The bags are the perfect length and they have a draw sting on them.
For the hitch head, I found an old piece of Formica laminate from a kitchen remodel I done. I cut the Formica to fit my forward compartment so I could store heavy things without cutting the lino. I put the hitch head on this Formica.
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pdvandusen
Snow Hill, NC USA
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Joined: 10/30/2007
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My spare tier is under the A frame and I put the bars on the tire when I'm at home. I put them in the pass through when camping. If it's a I won't be leaving the campground with my TV I will leave it on the truck. If I'm going to be going somewhere I'll put it in the pass through with the bars.
Doug & Mary Ann Van Dusen and Phoebe (the dog)
2008 Chevy 1500 Silverado 5.3L LTZ 3.73, HD Trailer Pkg.
2008 JayFeather LGT 31E
Equal-i-zer, Prodigy BC and TomTom GPS
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jaycocamper62301
Illinois
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Joined: 10/10/2007
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I put the bars and pins in an inexpensive hard shotgun case from Walmart for about $10. The hitch I leave on or sit in truck bed under cover
2008 Ford F250 Crew Cab Short Bed 6.4 Lariat Dark Stone & Tan
2008 Jayco 32 BHDS G2
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CRAMD
Saskatchewan,Canada
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Joined: 11/21/2006
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I took some pieces of 3/4 inch plywood that I had laying around, and fabricated an open topped, three sided box (open end facing the pass through door). The box had three compartments; one sized for the bars,the second for the hitch head, with the third compartment holding a plastic pail with a lid for my extra sewer hose connectors. I screwed through the plywood bottom to the floor in the pass through at the front of the trailer-worked great, kept everything out of sight when unhooked, and still left plenty of room for other stuff in the compartment.The best thing was that the compartment didn't get dirty or beat all to h!#$ when stowing the bars and hitch head. Total cost was minimal as I had everything already laying around in the garage as left overs from other projects.
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LarryJM
NoVa
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Joined: 11/09/2007
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BarneyS wrote:ddav15 wrote:I jack up my trailer tounge just enough so there is no tension on the pen when I pull it out, then just drive out. By taking the tension off the pin it pulls out easy and there is no sudden bang when you pull up. The tounge weight of the trailer is resting on the jack. What's so complicated about that?
Not complicated at all IF you disconnect or take the tension off of the WD bars first. Otherwise, it would be almost impossible.
Barney
Agreed, but what ddav15 said was
Quote:I pull the hitch pin and drive off leaving every thing attached to the trailer then put the hitch pin back in and lock it. There is also a lock on the ball housing. When ready to leave camp I just take it all all apart and hook up or I have just backed into the hitch without taking it apart.
Which means he only removed the hitch pin and did not disconnect anything like removing the tension on the WD/Sway bars. Unless you remove the WD/Sway bars from the L-brackets you will always have a lot of tension either on the drawbar or the WD/Sway bars.
Also, if you have the drawbar attached to the TT tongue it will take two people and walkie talkies to try and align the TV receiver to the drawbar still attached to the TT and the alignment has to be just right. Further more removing the drawbar/hitch head from the TT tongue again will take two people unless you just let the drawbar/hitch head fall on whatever surface you might be on. I just see this method as the least desirable method of disconnecting.
Larry
* This post was
edited 05/18/08 03:47am by LarryJM *
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974. TRAILER MODS
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ddav15
Chino, CA
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Joined: 02/16/2004
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When it's not hooked up to the truck there is no tension on the bars. We were talking about a Equilzer Hitch not the kind of hitch with a sway bar and chains.
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BarneyS
S.E. Lower Michigan
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Joined: 10/16/2000
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ddav15 wrote: We were talking about a Equilzer Hitch not the kind of hitch with a sway bar and chains.
I realize that and it doesn't matter.
There is not one bit of difference in the way that the Equal-i-zer transfers weight compared to the standard WD hitch. They both do exactly the same job. You claim that you can drive out of the hitch by pulling the pin on the shank while you still have the Equal-i-zer bars positioned on the L brackets. I claim that is not possible because of the forces placed on the drawbar (shank) where it enters the receiver of your truck. If you have the WD bars drawn up to where the proper amount of weight is being transferred, you will not be able to drive out of the hitch. If you raise your truck by using the tongue jack, thereby removing the tension of the WD bars, it might be possible to drive out but there would be a LARGE upward movement of the drawbar (shank) just as it pulled out of the receiver as the truck dropped back down, which would probably take out your rear bumper. Even that possibility is slim because the weight of the truck as it is lifted by the jack would prevent you from driving out of the hitch.
IF, on the other hand, you disconnected your WD bars, or took them off of the L brackets, before you pulled out, it would work OK. That is what I was trying to say before in my earlier post.
Barney
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