I thought I had seen it all when it came to stuff to add to your radiator but I guess not. This is a spin off of the ingredient in Cold Fire fire fighting equipment. It is about $50 to treat a P30 system.
Faster Engine Warm-Up
Reduces Water Temperature
Reduces Internal Engine Parts Temperature
Reduces Oil Temperature
Reduces Hot Spots in Engines
Reduces Engine Temperature Rise in Traffic Jams
Lowers A/C exit temps
Easy to Clean-Up and Environmentally Friendly
Well...improved wetting allowing the heat to transfer better from the hot engine metal to the coolant to the cool radiator metal is a benefit, but that's already covered by Red Line Water Wetter and several other products. This one might work better, but where's the market? Just bringing a cooling system up to original standards and as close to like-new-clean as possible is usually completely adequate.
I'm free of prostate cancer for 5 years now.
All men over age 50 should get an annual PSA blood test. Mine had a low reading, but the yearly jump was significant. The biopsy showed cancer just entering the aggressive stage. Dr. Hackenslash removed it.
Kenneth that was my question until I realized it does not work like Purple Ice, etc.
It is not a wetting agent but serves as a heat sink.
I like the faster engine warm up time and reducing the hot spots in the cooling system and the temperature of the engine dog house.
Getting 6 degrees colder temps out of the A/C ducts would be a plus when cooling without running the gen set.
While the extra cooling is not a "requirement" for all motor homes it would be better still to keep the 240+ temps some experience in the mountains down to 210 or 220 because it will also lower the transmission temps if the radiator is not maxed out.
When you read race track rules you will see where Motor MAX is sometimes approved as legal by name so clearly that is a market especially since the same thing is used to suppress race track fires.
They may be wrong but some think they can get more power out of an engine/more MPG by keeping the intake manifold cooler which is a claimed feature of Motor MAX.
Gale, I'm not a fan of those so called magic treatments on a RV cooling system...A good water pump (high volume) plus a good to perfect thermostat (Stewart 180º-195º) your choice is a start.
I doubt if the A.C. temp will drop much if at all IF everything is clean and not plugged up and the proper spacing is used between the condenser & radiator (1")
Air dam....Got one? If not install one cuz 4" to 5" will do wonders creating a low pressure area in the engine area allowing the high pressure frontal air to enter...
How much ~stuff~ is inside the air flow area creating deflections around the radiator, Got gaps around the sides of the radiator area? If so block them, How much air is going over the top of the radiator? If the gap is large/tall block that also and that will force MORE air through the rad.....
The hot summer months have arrived here in the desert (108º today) and it's rare IF my fan kicks in even when climbing out of the Coachella valley (both ways) Also a temp for me hill climbing I'm happy with is 205º NOT the higher temps other have......
For my area I use a 25%-30% anti freeze ratio and not the 50/50 krap used as a good marketing ploy, Just look at the newer containers...In the old days the ratio was printed out for the "freeze protection" but not anymore.....Just look at the area your in and find out just how much is really needed.
More anti freeze LESS cooling ability, Pure "Distilled water" has the best cooling ability BUT NO lube (water pump)....
Jim I agree. Last fall I upgraded my 1992 cooling system to a complete new 2007 cooling system. I had no engine temperature issues at all but the running transmission temps dropped about 30 degrees with the 2007 cooling system upgrade. Of course the new 5 vs. 4 row radiator help decrease the transmission temp but removing the trash packed between the engine radiator and the A/C/engine oil cooler did not hurt anything.
The Motor MAX additive just was something I had never heard of and if one reads the letters written to the company it seems to help anything with a radiator system. The part about 6 degrees colder air out of the A/C ducts raised doubts for me at first but then realized if you have dropped engine compartment temps by up to 40 degrees you have to get colder A/C temps because everything is cooler.
I agree and new water pump, radiator, thermostat, hoses, more water/less anti-freeze should do the job for people with heating issues but this did cost more than $50 in my case but hopefully I am good to go for another 15 years.
Offline
