PackerBacker
Montreal, Quebec,Canada
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Our 13.5K btu ac for our 30' 5er has always kept the temps great in 90F+. We've been to Myrtle beach 3 times at the end of August when it has been very hot and humid and the ac simply cycles on and off maintaining the trailer in the 70-72F range.
Eric
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esquaredg
Houston, TX
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We were in 90's and partial shade this past weekend. 13.5 unit and a 30 and a half foot 5er. During the day it ran none stop but kept us reasonably cool. At night it worked great. I am going to keep an eye on a the things everyone has mentioned.
The dealer did tell me that the unit was marginal if I took it to the beach during the hot summer. His option was to install a second unit. I think I might upgrade (to a 15K) when and if the current unit dies.
Eric
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snownyet
Western NY
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PackerBacker wrote:Our 13.5K btu ac for our 30' 5er has always kept the temps great in 90F+. We've been to Myrtle beach 3 times at the end of August when it has been very hot and humid and the ac simply cycles on and off maintaining the trailer in the 70-72F range.
Thats outstanding, almost unheard of! we've been to myrtle a number of times in august with 2 different 5th wheels, never had a rig with one a/c unit that kept it much cooler than 80, unless we got lucky with a site that had a couple trees for shade.
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PackerBacker
Montreal, Quebec,Canada
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snownyet wrote:PackerBacker wrote:Our 13.5K btu ac for our 30' 5er has always kept the temps great in 90F+. We've been to Myrtle beach 3 times at the end of August when it has been very hot and humid and the ac simply cycles on and off maintaining the trailer in the 70-72F range.
Thats outstanding, almost unheard of! we've been to myrtle a number of times in august with 2 different 5th wheels, never had a rig with one a/c unit that kept it much cooler than 80, unless we got lucky with a site that had a couple trees for shade.
You need to have the ac unit more towards center as opposed to either end of the trailer.
Last summer there was a gentleman at Myrtle Beach Travel Park with a new Wildcat who came by to ask me what I though of the ac cooling. I invited him in and he couldn't believe how cool it was inside; this was around 1:00pm with a 88-90F temp outside. His unit had the ac mounted right at the rear of the trailer and he could not get the area from the steps up to the bedroom and forward to really cool down below 76-78F or so. At lot depends upon the ducting length and efficiency loss. Our's is mounted mid-way in the living area.
Note that we only have one slide, we keep the blinds down during the hottest part of the day and we run the ac on high only while we are out and at the beach; otherwise it's on the lower speed.
... Eric
* This post was
edited 05/30/08 05:56am by PackerBacker *
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butkus21
On Galveston Bay
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With temps around 95 this week, we will be using both a/c's to keep it cool. The problem is lack of insulation in this rv - R-7 in the walls and R-11 or so in the roof and floors. Basically we're trying to cool an oven! We are parked under a huge pecan tree (we have the most shade in the cg) and it does help but our electric bill is going to be steep till about October, ugh!!
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mgratner
Wherever I happen to be USA
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Another major factor in A/C operation is insulation in the unit. Lousy insulation will kill the effect of any A/C and most units have poor insulation.
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RollingRockTX
Keller, Texas
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donawilcox wrote:I have a 36' with a 15Kbtu and it will cycle even in full sun on a 100 day. No need for two air. If you have to replace then step up to the 15 but that will cause issues if you are running a 3000 watt gen. Have a back ground in A/c and agree with the other poster if it rund continous and does not have the air flow it will ice up. Mine also has the duct work but blows most of the air out bottom of the unit. If not useing the bedroom open the vent at bottom of unti and close the doors or pull curtains that way the living area will get the cooling.
Really?
We have a 15K unit in a 31.5 ft, just last week we were camping in direct sun, no shade until 6-7 pm and our rig could only get to 82 inside, albeit it was also running with 40% humidly inside so it didn't feel bad. Outside it was 94 outside. I totally disagree that 1 AC for a 30+ 5er is not enough in the direct sun on a hot day.
What brand of AC do you have? It may be worth switching if you are having that much luck with yours.
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carrollti
Sumter, sc
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smkettner wrote:You may have an air leak. Internal baffle, connctions or the ducting itself.
I am pretty sure 5 to 10% of my air is leaking into the roof cavity as some cool air will drift out of a removed outlet cover. My internal bafffle was allowing the inlet and outlet air to mix due to a poor tape job.
I know mine was/is I have to go back with some duct tape to fix the air leaks. Mine frozen up also. My son-in-law just got back from Afganistan and he look at it and found alot of air going in the roof.
TC
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BruceStarkey
Ontario, Canada
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Not all rv's are insulated to the same standards. Not all rv's are ducted with the same care. Not all rv's have dual pane windows with Low E rating. You may be trying to compare apples to oranges.
A poster who says his 13.5K A/C is cooling his 34 ft'r just fine might have R15 or better in the roof or even a fiberglass roof with Argon windows.
A poster who says his A/C is overworked just cooling his 27 ft'r may have bought a unit with R8 in the roof, single pane glass, ducted A/C with the ductwork collapsed in the middle of a run to the bedroom, outside air infiltration up the kazoo, etc..
When two posters with same models of trailer are having very different experiences cooling their unit, further troubleshooting is indicated as has been mentioned in other posts. It is not uncommon for the ducted variety to have collapsed ductwork or indeed, no connection between ductwork and the A/C support pan. The commonly used ductwork is the alumifoil variety which is not sheet metal but rather a very light duty cardboard material that can sag in spots from the weight of wiring or even insulation on top of it. When the A/C unit was installed, did the workers duct-tape the connection to the ducting or simply bolt the thing to the roof and allow the cooled air to infiltrate to the entire attic cavity of the rig doing absolutely nothing for the interior. Have you actually confirmed that the compressor is running and not just the fan? With the compressor running and fan speed on LOW you should be getting very cold air from an outlet in the ceiling immediately adjacent to the unit, if not something is wrong with the unit, it may have lost it's charge or have a major mud-dauber nest restricting flow. Don't be afraid to take off the cover and have a look, but be carful as those covers are probably the most fragile thing on your RV. When replacing the cover DO NOT over-tighten the screws as to crack that flimsy plastic is to later watch your A/C cover shrapnel itself when it hits the car behind you on the road.
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