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Open Roads Forum  >  Class B - Camping Van Conversions

 > Leveling blocks or ramps

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Huck BB62

Alaska

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Joined: 08/03/2007

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Posted: 05/27/08 09:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

For me, as long as my head is level or above my feet, I'm good to sleep, within reason. Getting perfectly level is beyond my patience "level." I've turned the van around backwards if I had too and ran the hookups underneath. Looks funny but hey, time's important!


'07 Roadtrek Popular 210


VE3ESN

Ontario, Canada

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Posted: 05/27/08 11:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Huck BB62 wrote:

For me, as long as my head is level or above my feet, I'm good to sleep, within reason. Getting perfectly level is beyond my patience "level." I've turned the van around backwards if I had too and ran the hookups underneath. Looks funny but hey, time's important!


Exactly! And we've found that when the above is the case, the fridge cools just fine, be it on propane or 120 VAC. (We use the 12 VDC only when the van is moving.)


Jerry & Susie
1996 Roadtrek 190 Versatile (Dodge 5.2 L)
FMCA F390585


LVJJJ

NW WASHINGTON

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Posted: 05/27/08 12:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Since there are not any perfectly level places in a vehicle, I never use a level, I do it by "eye" and "feeling." Since I am "one" with my RV I can feel if it's level as soon as we pull in to the campsite. Then I get out and walk around the vehicle and can tell if one side or corner is low just by looking. Will then add a yellow lego or two and we're done. I also look the site over before pulling in and it's easy to see how level it is that way. Unless it's the last site, I won't pull into one with a steep slope.


1965 CHEVY VAN, 292 "Big Block 6"
2005 ROADTREK 170 ('05 CHEVY VAN)
2006 RAINIER 20' TT
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pnichols

Santa Cruz Mountains

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Posted: 07/14/08 10:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I use homemade ramps from 2" X 8" lumber - three step up levels on each ramp results in a highest level of 4 1/2 inches (2X8 lumber is actually about 1 1/2 inches thick and 7 1/2 inches wide).

Just as a reminder for many who ignore it or don't know it: If you have duals in the rear and ever have to raise one of your dual sets, you need TWO leveling ramps (one for each tire) so vehicle weight is STILL on two tires - the same as all the other times that you're using your vehicle.

Hence .... I had to make and have to carry five of these wooden leveling blocks just in case I'm ever confronted with the worst case 3-point situation whereby the entire rear (i.e. four tires) needs to be raised along with one tire at the front. We get this a lot in National Forest and BLM boondock camping spots that are both sloped and canted.

I've tried the plastic/composite ramps and they eventually crack on uneven/rocky surfaces. Only the homemade 2X8 wooden ramps can take the abuse in all situations year after year with a 6 ton vehicle - they are heavy, but a handle on the side of each located at their balance point makes them still fairly easy to position.


Phil, 2005 E450 Itasca 324V Spirit

gypsyhounds

n. Ca

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Posted: 07/15/08 12:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I guess I am in the "thrifty" (cheap) bunch. I cut several pieces of plywood some longer some shorter so that if I needed three or more it is easy to drive up them for leveling. I have the little level I check but I also am of the type who "feels" the rig is "off". I normally can guess it right with one try. I check the level that I put in the fridge.
Sometimes I have to add or subtract a board but not normally. They fit perfect in my basement, if I lose them no problem. Cost me nothing.





TrapSkeetClay

Maurepas, LA

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Posted: 07/17/08 07:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I use both the lego and the ramp style. Busted the first 'thrifty' set of lego's. I use the lego's on pavements/concrete type surface and the ramp's in fields and rock. Maybe the lego's will last longer if not used on rocks.

Didn't like the bright yellow color on black pavement parking, so borrowed Jim's tip and painted them black. Now the first thing you notice is not the yellow lego's. The plastic fusion paint for plastic does seem to work.

I store the lego's in the van and put the ramps on my carrier that has my moped. Somethings the ramps don't make the trip with me because they are stored out of the van with the moped. But the lego's are always inside and go with me. My fridge is very pickie about being level front to back. Took the ramps and installed screw type staps with a strap to keep them nestled together and easy to strap down.

The yellow bubble level IS the best money I have spent. Slick. Think mine cost $1.39 and it works between the cup holders up front. Travel alone and you need stuff that works without a second hand or look see.

love my B but I want a Pleasure Way now. Logan B ralley put that in my head.

Rodger

Tucson, AZ.

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Posted: 07/18/08 12:27am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The Lego's don't hold up well on uneven soft surfaces. One of the reasons I prefer the Fiamma ramps.


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RiverkernB

California

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Posted: 07/18/08 08:31am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We purchased our Fiamma ramps from Dale, Northwest Expeditions, as recommended on this forum (thanks Rodger). They are very sturdy and much easier to use than stacking Legos as we did on our TT for many years.

CJBill

Rockville Md.

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Posted: 07/19/08 08:38am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OK Guys, how much leveling do I need? I have cut two 14" pieces of 2x8 and so far they have been enough each time, twice, I have needed them.

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