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Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes  >  Class C

 > Sugestions B/4 buying used Class C

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francoind

Albertson, NC

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Posted: 05/25/08 01:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I will be looking to buy a Class C some where between a 1988 and a 1990 model. Never have owned a motorhome, only travel tralers. Could use any advise. I will be using it for trips of 200 miles or less. Plan a lot of rough camping at Bluegrass events and coonhound events. Let me have your best advise so that I do not make the same mistakes. Thanks in advance.

RoadAbode

Philadelphia

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Posted: 05/25/08 02:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Check the house battery, and the genset, two things I forgot to check. genset worked fine, house battery was just about doa.


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Handbasket

Asheville, NC

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Posted: 05/25/08 03:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'd suggest reading the third post down (and the links contained in it) in the Class C FAQ's here. Also worth checking the FAQ's for info on tires & their age. That should keep you out of trouble and away from buying one for at least a few hours, 'cause you'll be reading for at least that long... .

Jim, "Love your enemies. It'll create confusion in their minds."


'06 Tiger CX 'C Minus' on a Silverado 2500HD 4x4, 8.1 & Allison ('Loafer's Glory'); '07 Forester 2.5 ( the 'HANDBSKT'); '95 Toyota SR5 V-6 4x4 pickup, ARB locker, Bilsteins, Warn hubs & M8000, etc;
'94 968, M030 swaybars ('DOPPLER')

Ramblin_Mo

Mid-Missouri

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Posted: 05/25/08 04:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Check the roof carefully. Any tears? Roof caulking condition? Any cracks or gaps in caulking? massive amounts of caulk in one spot?

Feel for soft spots while carefully/gently walking on the roof.
Is the AC unit level with the roof? Evidence of water puddling around the AC on one side or the other? Are there any vent covers cracked?

Running lights/marker lights front and back. If they are cracked and full of water/mildew/condensation they are leaking or have leaked in the past and may have leaked into the over cab area or down back inside wall.

Does it the roof look like it has been maintained? Expect some dirt but if it hasn't been maintained, you will know it.

Look for water damage in the over cab area outside. Stains, excessive caulking of seams, bubbles in fiberglass skin over cab, around front and side windows.

Look down along the sides of the outside walls and look for bubbles or delamination around windows, bottom of walls, over storage doors.

Going inside. How does it smell? Get up into the over cab area. Remove cushions and gently press every area you can to feel for soft spots around windows, where the side meets the bottom, the ceiling. Any stains or soft spots? Any signs the plywood has separated? Do the cushions you removed smell like mildew?

Feel the entire ceiling though out the MH. Any soft spots, areas that have delaminated? Open all overhead cabinets. Feel for delamination, look for bubbles evidence of water damage on ceiling and walls in cabinets, bathroom, back wall inside.

Feel for soft spots in floor - check everywhere you can get to. Look around water storage tank and water heater, under sinks, toilet, around shower. Check for dampness, soft areas. Any areas covered by loose rugs? Moves them and check under them.

Have the seller demonstrate that every system is operational. Generator, house battery, refrigerator, AC units including checking the the driver front dash AC in addition to overhead AC unit! furnace operation, water heater, toilet, shower, lights, awnings, slide outs, outside lights. Does it have the sewer hose? Where is it stored? The power cord for hooking up to shore power, adapters.

If buyer begs off any showing system, assume that system is suspect and know what it will cost to buy a new refrigerator, furnace, AC etc...

Any tires that are older than five or six years will need to be replaced no matter how much tread appears to be left, no matter if they only have 500 miles on them, they will need to be replaced. Many threads on the forum about this issue.

Finally, get down on the ground and look under the chassis and engine/transmission. How does the exhaust system look? Any broken shocks? Broken leaf spring clips? leaky tanks? Wet brake lines around wheels? Oil, transmission, differential fluid leaks? Do grease fittings look like they have been used in the 21st century?

Motor, transmission and how it drives I'll leave to someone else.

Make sure you check the NADA value of the MH you are looking for. Deduct for systems that are non functional.

Good luck!

joanne0012

Boston, MA

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Posted: 05/25/08 05:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Mo has given you a good list of things to check. Check the ceiling and walls for soft or crunchy spots, especially below windows and in the over-cab area. Don't just run your hand over them; press firmly. A nonfunctioning house battery or even a major item like the AC or fridge can be negotiated and replaced, but structural water damage is a true disaster.


Joanne
1994 Lazy Daze 23.5' TK


Ramblin_Mo

Mid-Missouri

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Posted: 05/25/08 06:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Keep in mind there are a lot of used C's for sale out there. Patience and persistence will pay off. If it doesn't pass the "has had a leak test" move on and don't waste any more time inspecting. That is unless the price is unbelievably good and you are up to doing the reconstruction.

Dakzuki

Carnation, Wa, USA

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Posted: 05/26/08 11:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Above the usual mechanical checks check Ford engines for broken exhaust manifold bolts. It is a known design problem that Ford didn't deal with. Spendy to fix.


95 Chinook Premier


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