Alright, I replaced the hot water tank of my Attwood pilot light gas water heater (6gal). With the tank they sent a new relief valve so I used it instead of reusing the old one. This weekend we tried it out and this morning I noticed a steady but small drip from the relief valve, my wife had just taken a shower and the burner was on. This never happened with the old one.
Is it a bad valve? Should I tighten something up (leak was not from around threads but out relief hole)?
On a side note, I got in a pinch and removed the bypass valve and connections - but that shouldn't make a difference right?
Thanks in advance,
Josh
03 Ram 1500 Quad Cab with Hemi 5.7, HD tow package, K&N Cold Air, B&W Companion + Ball, Prodigy,
1987 Prowler 27.5',
Macbook Pro 17" (Fastest Vista Laptop, iPhone)
Me and the DW and our
2 Dogs: Jackson (golden), Pumba (min-pin)
You need a air space at the top of the tank to allow for the expansion when the heat is on. You might want to shut the water down, open the relief valve then the drain valve. bleed off some of the water. Close the relief then drain valve. Put the water back on, open a hot water faucet and bleed off the excess air. You should be go to go. If it still leaks, replace it. I will not repair it self. It will only rust up the inside of the hot water heater and make stains down the side of the RV. Bill
I have found that there could be a little piece of lime scale under the seat. Caused by hard water. I have flicked the lever a few times letting a little water escape each time to maybe flush the seat clean and then letting the lever "Snap" back closed. It has worked for me. But if it still leaks, a replacement is in order. I have never tried to replace a "Seat" and do not even know if it can be done. A new valve can not be that expensive, but try the "Flicking" first, you might get lucky.
Othertonka
2004 Southwind 32VS
2002 CRV Toad
U. S. Gear Unified brake system
Retired Fire Captain, SFD
You said it was a slow but steady drip and the burner was on.
Let me make a wild stab at a guess here:
You are hooked up to city water and DO NOT use a pressure regulator
Am I right? Yes: Read on.. NO: skip to next reply
City water can often go as high as 100 PSI or more, (NOTE that PEX tubing has no problem with this but the seals on the flush valve for your toilet... NOT SO FORGIVING and a female of the canine flavor to replace)
What has happened is that the city forced too much pressure (80 psi is more common) into your RV's system.. There is, of course, a check valve on the city side.. As the water heats in the hot-tank it expands. since a liquid can not be compressed the only thing left to compress is the air-"head" or cusion on the water heater tank and, of course, the anti-hammer pipes (if any) on the faucets.
The pressure has gone up, since it was too high to start with, it went up BEYOND the relief point on the TPR valve
Soultion.. A Watts or equal whole house pressure regulator set at 45 to 50 PSI on the water inlet of the rig. NOT the more common "Marshall Brass" type, but a Watts whole house type.. Lowes, Home Depot, Selected RV stores including Selected (NOT ALL ) Camping world stores (IT is not a CW catalog item far as I know but some stores have 'em)
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business John is Near Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
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