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 > Shower Walls Buckling

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navycranes

Maryland

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Posted: 06/03/08 11:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

In out TT the shower walls are buckling along the seam where it meets the tub. The shower walls are only held in place by little plastic brads that were pounded into the wall. It is impossible now to seal the tub to wall seam because any time you bump up against the shower wall it breaks the bead.

What kind of fastener can I use along the bottom of the shower wall to more firmly attach it to the wall so I don’t get these wrinkles?


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nny12972

NY

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Posted: 06/03/08 02:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you're sure the wall behind the shower is solid, you can use a screw with the plastic cap to match the color of the shower/tub (hardware store item..."plastic screw covers" one piece under the screw head---the other snaps on top)...I'd also use "mollies" in a fresh, carefully drilled hole---might even inject a little waterproof adhesive in the screw hole first....they'll get a better grip on thin underlying wallboard.....

BUT FIRST, I'd find out WHY it's buckling---you may have a soaked wallboard coming apart, and maybe it's just lousy OEM fasteners----even though new & better fasteners may hold the shower segment to the good part of the wallboard, if that continues to warp and/or sink, you may end up with a major repair anyway......

Sounds to me like the shower wall needs to come off---at least lift the edge enough to where you can get light and maybe a small mirror in there to have a look before you go further.
Good luck...
J

navycranes

Maryland

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Posted: 06/05/08 05:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Come on people!!!

114 views and only one reply? I know there has got to be someone out there that has had this happen or has some good advice.

I think the wall behind the shower is in OK shape I didnt remove the shower wall yet but kind of shined a flashlight up in there.

tomman58

Southfield Michigan

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Posted: 06/05/08 06:06am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Go to a Keystone dealer, the biggest concern I would have is:
1. Where is the wiring running behind the wall?
2. What kind of anchor would they suggest.
3. Is this a problem common to that trailer and year?

Not much help but is the direction I would wander in.


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PattieAM

Maryland

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Posted: 06/05/08 06:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I think I too would consult the dealership with the issue and see what they suggest (if not a warranty item, might just get the suggestion and run with it).

Other thing....can you get under the trailer and see if there has been any leakage (stains?)? If there were a way to put adhesive behind the panel that would be what I would do most likely. (if wallboard is dry) (Thinking of process used for 'blowing in insulation')

sharker6

Shelbyville, Kentucky

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Posted: 06/05/08 06:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The shower floor comes up the wall and has a flange the goes behind the shower wall enclosure. There's always a seam there and that's un-caulked for movement, that's normal. If the shower enclosure buckles slightly that's also normal. The flange goes behind the shower wall enclosure several inches so no water will enter the wall.

* This post was edited 06/05/08 06:25am by sharker6 *


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lv2rom

Kansas City, Missouri

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Posted: 06/05/08 11:49am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would remove the wall surrounds, lay a good dose of Liquid Nails on the walls themselves, put the surrounds back in using the existing brads, temporarily shim the bottom up a little so it can't drop, use some excess lumber to make cross pressure braces while the adhesive cures. When dry remove all the temp stuff, and You are done. How's that!!!...Brian


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Scott_C

NJ

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Posted: 06/05/08 11:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Mine are actually held with plastic tree anchors and an adhesive at the the vertical edges. The particular material these are made out of for RVs has quite a thermal expansion coefficient apparantly. Mine always comes up between the tree anchors on the edges and looks bad in the heat. When I get some time this season, I will be making some edge molding up that will cap the edges so this won't happen. I'll just make a profile that allows the surround to move as it needs, but the molding itself will be affixed to the wallboard using fine bugel head screws threaded into hollow wall anchors. Just need to decide if these will be oak finished to match and buried in spar urethane or machines out of aluminum bar stock...


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