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 > Whose A/C is best

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KEBrown

Kansas

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Posted: 06/03/08 08:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a 28' Class C w/ a 4 year old non-ducted 13.5 Coleman roof a/c and I just don't think it gets cold enough; 94 degrees today w/ 60+% humidity. I've cleaned the coils, filters, etc. so now I think I just might put a 15k on it; I think my 4000 Onan will handle that. Anyway; who makes the better a/c systems, the Coleman, Carrier, Dom? Seems like you always see Coleman on units, but is that just because they're affordable or are they really the best. During the nights my unit will freeze you out, but during the day it's not cool enough for me; I'd rather be looking for a way to turn it down, not wishing but unable to get it colder so I think the 15k is the only way to go.. suggestions on brand/model, etc. I'd really like to keep it under $600 if possible.

Kenneth

Washington, the state

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Posted: 06/03/08 09:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you buy a new unit, consider the high efficiency models. They do the same refrigeration job with less load on the generator.

Have you tried reducing the heat gain in your rig? Shade the windows or reflective tint on the windows might be a big help. If there is any way to add insulation, try that...Reflectix or anything you can get to help reduce the heat gain.


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fordsooperdootydieselsmoker

OrangeCountyCalifornia

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Posted: 06/03/08 10:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

All things being equal...pick from all 3 brands by the best price! Following the above info may delay you're having to upgrade the AC. And do reduce the outside heat intrusion by solar film on the windows, or reflective insulated reflectix, use MaxxAir fans to exhaust heat prior to turning the AC on. We are fairly cool and comfy on really hot days doing these tricks with our DuoTherm 13,500K. The A/C will usually only bring a 20 degree reduction on the interior heat at best! A/C number 2 will be our next step.

Wayne Dohnal

Banks, OR.

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Posted: 06/03/08 11:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

In the many threads that debated on whether or not an eu2000i generator could run an air conditioner, a common thread was that the Dometic Brisk Air 13,500 btuh units were the winners for the lowest power requirement. This was with the standard-efficiency units. Getting a high efficiency unit is a better choice for use with a generator.


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rob85546

Hot arizona

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Posted: 06/04/08 03:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Didnt they say it should be 20 degrees cooler inside with the ac on than outside?????


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Bob Landry

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Posted: 06/04/08 05:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

rob85546 wrote:

Didnt they say it should be 20 degrees cooler inside with the ac on than outside?????


No, you are looking for a 20 degree split between the discharge air coming from the unit and the return air going back into it

TXiceman

(Near) Houston,TX

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Posted: 06/04/08 06:01am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

rob85546 wrote:

Didnt they say it should be 20 degrees cooler inside with the ac on than outside?????


No...if the unit is working right you air out of the unit should be 20 dF cooler than the air in to the unit...+/- a couple of degrees.

This is only correct if you are using the summer grade halogen fluid in your headlights...he he he

Ken


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Chris Bryant

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Posted: 06/04/08 06:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As Bob and Ken have said- an air conditioner typically will drop the temperature of the air coming in to the return by 20 degrees F. If that air doesn't pick up *any* heat (not likely), it will go through again for another 20 degree drop.
The factor is heat gain- how much heat the rig is picking up from the outside and from the people and heat producing appliances in the rig. With enough btu capacity, you can virtually cool the rig to what every temperature you like (though Bob and Ken would know the limit of the R22 systems that are used- I cobbled a 13,500 btu unit on the front of a plant trailer- super insulated- and could only get to around 55).


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KEBrown

Kansas

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Posted: 06/04/08 06:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks guys... I've had all the windows tinted to almost black (looking in from outside). The only windows that do not have any tint what-so-ever are the two side windows by the dinette and couch and of course, the windshild (which is mostly shaded by the cab-over. I did start the a/c when the inside temp was 90+; once the sun set it got down to 60 degrees inside. I'll try some reflectix stuff or try to find some reflective roller shades for the windows and I'll try to start the a/c in the AM so it has a change to get ahead of the sun. There is really no way to add insulation to the RV without tearing things apart, which I'm not really willing to do right now. I do have an aluminum roof, so I would hope that's reflecting a good portion of the sun rays. Thanks again. Keith

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