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 > Water Pump running But Pumps no Water

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augustpilot

Sun City, Texas

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Posted: 06/05/08 08:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

New Eagle Fvr with Shurflo pump, worked ok for 1 month. Last nite was awakened to hear pump running, no water coming out. Sounding different like it was cavatating, had no water. Turned swith off. This morning moved all the valves underneath in storage area, turned the swith on and off in storage area, finally got it to work with the old noise it made and water did come out. Great, but now tonite it has messed up again doing same thing. I am not in convenient place to run 75 miles to a dealer to ck it, it is under warr. I may go to camping world and buy new pump, but would like to know if anyone with the water pump has had this experience. Help and thanks.


2008 Jayco Eagle 313 Fifth Wheel, 2006 F-250 Ford 6.0 Diesel, 3.73, 4dr, Pullrite super glide hitch, One Co-Pilot

sele

illinois

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Posted: 06/05/08 08:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Once there was a screen plugged at the inlet side of the pump, after disconnecting the inlet water line it was either a quater or half a turn and the end came off. I cleaned the screen and we were back in business. Hope this helps.


scott

Gadget Guy

Whitefish/Calgary

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Posted: 06/05/08 08:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

No need to buy a pump. It will be a restricted inlet screen or a leak on the suction side of the pump. The leak can be very small to cause you problems like this. I once had the filter crack by tighting it to much. Looking at it you could not see a crack but with a magnifying glass you could just barely make out the crack. Replaced it and the pump worked great. Also check all the fittings on the suction side of the pump. Good luck

KSadler1

Albuquerque, NM

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Posted: 06/05/08 08:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I remember someone saying something about having to "prime their pump" a while back. I forget how it's done but that's the first thing I'd try. I'm sure someone will remind us how to do it though.....

Ken

TnTtravelers

East Slope Sierra, California, USA

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Posted: 06/05/08 09:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

See if you can access the water pump itself and check the water connections on the inlet side of the pump. When my coach was new, I accessed the pump in the basement and found loose connections and had a water leak. Easy enough to fix by just snugging up a couple of loose fittings.

If you have a leak at the inlet side, the pump would be sucking in air, which could cause it to loose the prime.

Don't overtighten though.

good Luck


Tim and Tina (kudo too)
Livin' good, while the livin's good!

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lv2rom

Kansas City, Missouri

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Posted: 06/06/08 12:29am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yep, I vote for a loose connection on sump side, it won't necessarily show up as a water leak (sump only, no pressure), but will allow air into the line, and the pump keeps loosing its prime....Brian


2005 F350 Dually -AFE air box/MRSP exhaust/Bags/Bilsteins/Energy Susp./Michleins
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Vulcanmars

Naples, FL

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Posted: 06/06/08 07:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My new to me Rage'n has a broken check valve in the "city water" connection. I almost went nuts looking for a leak.( I could hear running water; I thought it must be filling the walls or basement: It was shooting out of the water connection onto my truck that was parked next to the 5er.) It's funny now.....


Mars
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USA in a Chevrolet

Manahawkin, New Jersey

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Posted: 06/06/08 09:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sometimes, it is the pump. At least, that's what happened to me. I started having problems when I was winterizing. I could not get the pump to suck the antifreeze into the pump. After holding the gallon of antifreeze higher than the pump, it worked. Then on a trip I had the problem of the pump cavitating & not pumping water. I changed the check valve on the water inlet, pulled down the insulation under the fresh water tank and checked the connections there & checked all connections on the pump. All looked good. I replaced the shurflow pump with a brand new one of the same make & model & have had no problems since. So, in my case, it was a bad pump. It was a lot of work checking the connections (taking down the insulation under fresh water tank alone took an hour). I would have been better spending the $74 for a new pump. But if it happens again, I'll probably go through the whole process of checking all connections. Just makes sense to check everything out.





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