Outdoors4Life
Pa
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I have a newly installed Norcold in my Itasca and it works fine on AC and DC, but when you switch to gas, it ignites and as soon as the igniter stops, the burner goes out. I have heard that something could be blocking the flame sensor (or whatever it's called) so it thinks there is no flame and shuts off the gas supply. Can anyone help?
* This post was
edited 06/08/08 09:39pm by Outdoors4Life *
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CH-47C Driver
On Thre Road Between the Black Hills and Arizona
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It maybe as simple as air in the gas line. Try cycling it several times before you start tearing things apart
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Possumpoint
Virginia, USA
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I recently had a piece of rust scale fall out of the chimney and block the flame sensor. Loosening one screw releases the fire box guard and you can inspect to see if something is blocking yours.
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Outdoors4Life
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Is the sensor right above the burner?
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mchero
Concord, NH
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Yes, the flame should be touching the flame sensor when it lights.
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Outdoors4Life
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The only thing i see above the burner is that metal rod. That's where the spark comes from. Is the the sensor too? I got the burner to light and then it went out in about a half hour.
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purplepossum
Virginia, USA
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On mine, I could hear but never saw where the spark from the igniter was. The flame sensor is a rod that runs parallel to the flame and then turns into the flame. It appears to be welded to a metal tab at that point.
I worked in the natural gas industry for a number of years and flame sensors would occasionally fail.
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glennts
Flower Mound, Tx
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I have gone round and round with this problem on my older Norcold N641 and although I have never found the cause, I did find one fix that always works. The issue is of course the sensor not being aware that the flame has caught and after several of what it thinks is failed igniting attempts, it kills the voltage to the gas valve. What I did is make a little jumper to connect the 12v line that goes to the circuit board directly to the valve. I then light the flame manually. I let it run this way for a hour or so and then pull the jumper and re-connect the 12v to the circuit board. And then it always works as it should for a few months..... until I have to do it again.
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dougrainer
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Since you got it to stay lit for 30 minutes 1 time, that means the Control Board is good. What usually causes your type problem is the Porcelain (Ceramic white) around the metal spark electrode has a fine crack and is "Bleeding" (losing) the AC signal that is sent to the control board to signal flame sense. The Spark Electrode does double duty. It Sparks and sends the AC flame signal back to the board, and if that signal is disrupted, the Board turns off the gas valve. Another cause is if the Spark Wire Spade terminal is NOT secured on the Piezo on the control board. If it is loose, there is enough energy to jump the gap to spark for lighting the LP, but the return AC ripple signal cannot make the return jump if it is loose. Doug
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