OldBaldGuy wrote: He had a Reese signature hitch installed for us. After getting home we discovered that, in order to actually make the slider slide, we have to be in a straight line, chock the wheels, drop the landing gear, take the weight off of the hitch, move the lever, raise the gear, then lock the tlr brakes and pull forward to actually slide the hitch.
I personally installed the Reese Signature hitch and also find it very easy to slide into the maneuvering position (pull the safety locking pin, put the slide lever in the unlocked position and pull forward). I think OldBaldGuy's hitch is installed incorrectly (installation not square) or it needs lubrication. I seriously considered the PullRite SuperGlide, however I found it doesn't allow any height adjustment (a must for me), needs to be within about 15-18 degrees to hitch/unhitch, kinda heavy, and requires a proprietary "capture plate". The SuperGlide is very clever technology, not needing to remember to "slide" your hitch.
If you really want the have the smoothest ride you want an air hitch.
I have to wonder how these folks who make a big deal about rails in the bed use their truck where that is the most important thing they point out as driving their choice.
For us, it was ride quality in the truck and the trailer.
Of course, until one actually uses an air hitch, they have no idea of the ride difference. I couldn't imagine using anything else.
I will live with those rails and our 25K Air Safe.
You asked the question.
What is the best hitch? I would suppose the hitch that has the highest rating would be what you are looking for. In that case I would suggest a hitch with a Binkley head. This head is made by Holland which makes most of the fifth wheel hitches for 18-wheelers.
Trailsaver makes several models using the Binkley head.
My hitch is the Trailersaver model 32K LP, rated to pull 32,000 lbs with a limit of 8,000 lbs pin weight. This will take care of just about all the fifth wheels made except for maybe a couple of custom Tetons.
2005 Freightliner M2 106 class 7 HDT 2004 Teton Sunrise Grand Jeep Wrangler toad ...PICTURES...
Another vote for Pullrite...the capture plate as mentioned above is only required on the slider version. Straight Pullrite hitches can hitch to any 5er...
"...OldBaldGuy, I have the same hitch and don't have to do all that. I stop, push the manual brake slider on my brake controller, back up to take the pressure off the hitch, get out and flip the handle, get in and hold the brake lever again and pull forward till the hitch stops. Try that and make sure the rails are lubed and it is supposed to work. It makes a noise that scares you the first time when it locks but I have been told this is how to do it..."
Thanks. I have tried that, I can't even flip the handle with weight on the hitch...
I bought a Husky 16K slider on the recomdation of several friends. I didn't really think I needed a slider BUT after I got one I sure do like it. No I don't have to have one but it sure has made life easier.
I pull a 30RL Cedar Creek with a 2007 F250 Crew Cab Diesel FX4 short box.
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