The outside condenser coils can look fine, but still be dirty. I would spray them with a good degreaser (Formula 409 is what Coleman recommends), let it sit, then hose off with a lot of water.
The high current draw is sometimes due to not being able to get rid of the heat, and I can usually drop the current draw 2 amps or more by cleaning the outside coils- even when they look clean.
also check the condensor roof part if the coil is dirty at 108 degrees no a/c for sure!recheck the voltage at 108 degrees,keep that roof part cool as possible on those extreme hot days,some units have a high pressure cut out for extreme high temps to protect the compressor and avoid circuit trips,if your does not and the head pressure saftey the trips will happen.
It is the condenser freezing up. Make sure your filters are clean. Allow AC unit to sit and defrost, then only run it on high fan and auto will stop it from freezing up and kicking the breaker.
Watch out the high west Texas heat is hell on tires too. Blew one out this weekend due to the 108F air temp. Road surface temp was over 140F. I should have stopped more often and not pushed to get home in the high heat.
It is the condenser freezing up. Make sure your filters are clean. Allow AC unit to sit and defrost, then only run it on high fan and auto will stop it from freezing up and kicking the breaker.
Bonefish
The condenser is the coil on the outside and can not freeze up. The coil on the inside is called the evaporator. And yes you can get a freeze up in west Texas. The humidity or laten load is the majority of the load on an A/C unit in humid areas. When you have low humidity, the load on the evaporator is less and the unit will run a lower suction pressure and a lower evaporator temperature. If your evaporator is dirty, filter dirty or the unit is bypassing air internally (inlet to outlet), anything to reduce the air flow through the cold side of the unit, you will possibly freeze the coil.
To avoid freeze ups, run the fan only on HIGH, keep the filter and coil clean, and make sure there is no bypassing of air.
Also, having a dirty condenser (outside) coil will not cause a freeze up. This sill cause the unit o run a higher discharge pressure and temperature which causes the unit to draw more amps which can trip a breaker.
Measure the temperature of the air intot he unit and then out of the unit. There should be a 18 to 20 dF difference...no more, no less. If you are getting the 18 to 20 dF difference, you are doing all that can be done.
Ken
KE5DFR
Vintage 1979 Silver Streak Supreme Rocket toted by a 2002 F350, crewcab dually, 7.3L,4.10 axle,SCMT. Travel with two miniature Schnauzers and one African Gray parrot. Practicing for retirement!
What was VOLTAGE inside RV when this happens. If not 110 VAC or more, DO NOT run your A/C unless you like to gamble a lot.
Chuck
Wonderful Wife
Lovely German Shepherd.
1999 Mercedes ML320 TV
2003 Wanderer 187TB Toybox (3620# UVW, 4800# loaded) Not yet camped in Hawaii, 2 Canada Provinces, & 2 Territories. I can't be lost because I don't care where this lovely road is going
TXiceman wrote: The coil on the inside is called the evaporator. And yes you can get a freeze up in west Texas. Ken
TXiceman is correct. I wasn't thinking. Our camper kicks the breaker if we don't run it on high fan if we are at the coast or lake.
We must have a good AC unit because we get better than the 20F differential. Outside temp at the lake was 105F the camper stayed a cool 76F last weekend.
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