As I said before, I'm going to try the simple/less expensive things first - premium fuel, fuel injector cleaner, clean MAF, fuel filter, etc.
Given the fact this didnt start happening until shortly after filling up with fuel from a questionable source (country store in middle of nowhere), and its *not* tripping any codes.....I suspect (hope!) this is just stale gas and/or a dirty injector or two, and some premium gas and fuel injector treatment will solve the problem.
If it does not...I'll start looking closer at the coils, boots, and plugs. As I said before, I'm very hesitant to mess with the plugs until absolutely necessary, for fear of the blow out issue.
Will
Putting your current issue aside, I would reconsider putting in new plugs. Leaving them alone is what will cause problems..... I did mine at about 5 years and 50k miles and they were quite worn (gap out of spec). I just rechecked the plug torque the other day after 2 years and 15k miles - all good!!!. BTW, did you look at your exhaust manifold studs?
Have you validated this with a scan tool? Depending on the code, it may be set and stored without illuminating the "check engine" light. Just because the light hasn't come on does NOT mean you haven't set any codes.
Some codes are stored for x number of drive cycles and are erased if the condition doesn't re-occur within that time, and conversely may be programmed to set the light if the code re-occurs x times within x drive cycles.
Willald wrote: As I said before, I'm very hesitant to mess with the plugs until absolutely necessary, for fear of the blow out issue.
Also agree on the plugs, the platinum plugs in our Suburban were rated at 100K miles, but they were toast after 75K miles. Ignoring the problem doesn't make it go away.....
My last comment is that you need to drive that truck more....sitting is a killer for any vehicle, and just using it for errands doesn't get the engine hot enough for long enough, and invites combustion deposits. Take it for a highway run instead of the minivan next time, keep it exercised. And bring your credit card for the gas stations....
My original plugs lasted over 120,000 miles. They all wore at the same rate, and when it became time ot change them, fuel economy took a very noticeable nosedive. The coils on the modular motors put out enough volts to compensate for an ever-widening gap (up to a point of course).
Bryan
2000 Ford E350 DRW Wagon (14-pass all captains chairs)
V10 w/ Banks PowerPack, Diablo Predator, 4.56 LS, 230,000+ miles
Had: Weekend Warrior 41' FSW (still looking for its replacement)
Will I didn't take the time to read all the replies so if this has been discussed, disregard........
Two quick things, my wife's cousin had a burned valve on his '99 F-250 V-10, so don't rule it out totally. His had 175,000ish miles....somewhat more than your's.
Also, the coils should be easy to test with simply using a ohmeter. There should be published specs at your Phord dealer that will tell you what the ohms/impedence range is for the primary/secondary coils in the coil packs, as well as a precedure as to how to test them.
The burned valve should be easy to check for with a simple compression test. However I personally prefer a leak down test. Either will tell you, or rule out the burned valve. Probably will need a special adapter to get down into the plug hole on the Phords.
Both of the above tests should be something you can perform yourself if you are even slightly mechanically inclined, and cost virtually nothing if you have access to the tools.
misfire on any ford triton engine may be due to a quick start up and then turned off quickly so the next time the truck is started it will run rough as of a rich condition. the electronic computer may record a misfire if it does it more than the factory parameters allow, with this said this is a most common problem, also how many miles on the spark plugs usually due at 80k,and another common problem is water in the coil over plug boots etc rain or a eng wash. if the service eng light ever comes on have a repair shop tell you what code it is do not let a napa, oriley check for codes
2005 Ram 3500 dual wheels open exhaust,
2006 Cambridge 361 rls on board onan gold 6500,
full home hook up
Have you validated this with a scan tool? Depending on the code, it may be set and stored without illuminating the "check engine" light. Just because the light hasn't come on does NOT mean you haven't set any codes.
Don: Did not realize that. I believe I may take it over to Autozone or somewhere tonight, maybe, see if they can check if any codes have been set.
Quote: ..the platinum plugs in our Suburban were rated at 100K miles, but they were toast after 75K miles. Ignoring the problem doesn't make it go away.....
..Agree 100%. And, like I said, if a load of premium fuel and Chevron fuel injector cleaner doesn't clear it up, plugs and/or coils will be the next thing I'll look at. I may well just replace all 10 plugs and be done with it first thing (if fuel injector cleaner doesn't help). Got to take the coils off to do that, and while I have them off, would be perfect time to test each one, see if it may be a coil.
Still keep wondering, though, about the fact this started happening after we got some questionable fuel. Could dirty fuel foul up spark plugs?
Quote: ...you need to drive that truck more....sitting is a killer for any vehicle, and just using it for errands doesn't get the engine hot enough for long enough, and invites combustion deposits. Take it for a highway run instead of the minivan next time, keep it exercised. And bring your credit card for the gas stations....
..A valid point. We do not typically take it on long highway trips during camping season, because in camping season, it gets its highway running in that we're out camping at least once every month.
Now during the winter, yes, we do try to take it for a highway trip at least once a month, for the very reason you mentioned.
Still, I took your advice yesterday. We were going to visit in-laws, a good 40 mile highway trip. We took the truck, put 12 gallons of the high-test fuel in it as carringb suggested, and drove it. Unfortunately, the miss is still there, after 'bout 80 miles running on high test fuel (although I didnt use any fuel injector cleaner, thats next). Now that I've been able to observe the miss a little more, I can tell its not just at idle. Its very noticeable when accelerating as well as at idle. Only time you don't hardly notice it is when at highway speeds, cruising.
Tonight, Bryan (carringb) is coming over (right, carringb?), I'm curious what he says when he hears it, the man knows these V10s very well. I think we will go to Autozone, have them check codes, put some fuel injector cleaner in it and some more premium fuel, drive it around some, and see what happens (and drink a cold one or two after, hahaha).
Once again, thanks everyone for your constructive, helpful input/responses. These forums rule. Engineer9860, thanks especially for your good input, and for resisting the temptation to throw in a Ford 'jab', hahaha. I'm almost surprised you passed up such a good chance to get in a little 'ribbing', I sure give you enough, lol.
Will & Angela
2 wonderful children that love camping, Stephen & Allison
2003 Ford Excursion V10 4x4
2003 Thor Citation 33M, Hensley Arrow hitch, Brakesmart Brake Control
(wanna see? Here is a picture of it )
willald wrote: .... Now that I've been able to observe the miss a little more, I can tell its not just at idle. Its very noticeable when accelerating as well as at idle. Only time you don't hardly notice it is when at highway speeds, cruising.
100% a bad COP. Pull the code and find out which one it is and replace it. Get the Motorcraft part too, the aftermarkets are not made the same.
willald wrote: .... Now that I've been able to observe the miss a little more, I can tell its not just at idle. Its very noticeable when accelerating as well as at idle. Only time you don't hardly notice it is when at highway speeds, cruising.
100% a bad COP. Pull the code and find out which one it is and replace it. Get the Motorcraft part too, the aftermarkets are not made the same.
Wow, you sound pretty confident, thanks for responding. I take it, yours had similar symptoms when this happened?
Hehe, I just hope its only one coil, and that its one we can get to fairly easily, haha.
As I said, hopefully we'll find out tonight. I just checked, found out I was wrong about what I said earlier - Autozone indeed *does* read trouble codes, so thats where we're headed later this evening. If its just one or two COPs, I'd just assume eat that cost, and leave the warranty alone (in hopes of getting that $$ back in a few years).
And, I'll probably look at getting all the plugs changed at a later time, to be sure everything is working like it should. Any idea whats a fair rate/price, for changing all the plugs on a V10? I'm usually a do-it-yourselfer, but the plugs on this engine really make me nervous, I don't want the liability, of over-torqueing one of those back plugs and blowing out a plug. Think I'll let the dealer have that liability.
..I just checked Autozone's web page, they do not have a Motorcraft Coil listed. They have a Duralast coil for 49.99, and a Visteon for 61.99.
Advance Auto does have a Motorcraft coil, for $62.96. Hate to have Autozone read the code, then turn around and buy the part from their competition. Would the Visteon that Autozone carries not be every bit as good as OEM, if not better?
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