I use a 2 ft carpenters level on the outside wall between the wheels and check to see that it is plumb.I have found that if the wall is plumb,then the trailer is real close to being level side to side.From that point I level front to rear using the front jacks,after unhooking.Then bring the rear stabelizers down tight.Sometimes, I will then lower the front jacks about 1/2 in more
That makes things a bit more solid.
When I have used the little bubble level,it reads something different at every different location.
If the swinging door in the trailer do not slam closed,or swing open
then we are as close to level as neede
I like round pancakes, that are evenly thick. And fried eggs that don't all run to the side of the pan. So I leveled to the stove top. Refer is close, but a very slight bit different.
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Bumpyroad wrote: ... but the only thing that HAS to be level is the refrigerator.
bumpy
I'm curious (and I have a digital level), does anyone know "how" level the fridge has to be, for instance, within 0.1 deg, 1 deg, 5 deg, 10 deg, etc.? I search Dometic's website and couldn't find anything.
Bumpyroad wrote: ... but the only thing that HAS to be level is the refrigerator.
bumpy
I'm curious (and I have a digital level), does anyone know "how" level the fridge has to be, for instance, within 0.1 deg, 1 deg, 5 deg, 10 deg, etc.? I search Dometic's website and couldn't find anything.
John
yep, I posted the numbers once and will try to find them again.
bumpy
here's what somebody posted in the past:
To put it more simply, if you refrigerator is located along the side wall like mine is then:
multiply your RV width across the tires in inches by 0.1045
and multiply your wheelbase in inches by 0.0523
Calculating the inches out of level allowed for the refrigerator requires that you know the wheelbase of your MH (the distance between the front and rear wheels) and the distance side to side between the center of the tires. After that, it's simple trigonometry.
In my MH the refrigerator is located along the side wall on the passenger side. Front to back on the fridge is therefore side to side on the MH, so I am allowed to be off level in this direction by 6 degrees. I measured 73 inches across the tires, so multiplying 73 by the sine of 6 degrees (0.1045) gave me an allowable out of level of 7.6 inches. The fridge is allowed to be off level by 3 degrees side to side, which is front to back on the MH. My E450 chassis has a wheelbase of 158 inches, so multiplying 158 by the sine of 3 degrees (0.0523) gives me an allowable out of level of 8.3 inches.
* This post was
edited 06/21/08 05:52pm by Bumpyroad *
Vulcaneer wrote: I like round pancakes, that are evenly thick. And fried eggs that don't all run to the side of the pan. So I leveled to the stove top. Refer is close, but a very slight bit different.
I'm with you. I level the range top. The new type frig can be off quite a bit and will still work fine, the story that it HAS to be level is a carryover from 20 years ago. Also, if the floor is a little off, so what? A person would have to be super sensitive to climbing to notice it.
All those numbers might be great. But my Dometic manual says it needs to be level enough so the freon does not settle into a pool in low areas of the piping.
shower drain should be lower than the rest of the shower...front of bed on 5vr should be slightly higher than foot of bed...doors should hang neutral...a marble on the floor shouldn't want to move in any particular direction...enough adult beverage, and it won't matter how level it is!!
Vulcaneer wrote: All those numbers might be great. But my Dometic manual says it needs to be level enough so the freon does not settle into a pool in low areas of the piping.
No freon in a Dometic that I know of,,,did you mean ammonia?!?
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