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 > Check Valve Modification

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LAdams

Northern Illinois

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Posted: 06/24/08 07:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

While examining the city water check valve some time ago, it occured to me that city water flow was restricted not only by the valve assembly itself but also due to the fact that the opening in the valve body is smaller than the 1/2" ID of the PEX tubing used almost universally in RV's today...

I removed the check valve assembly and removed the valve assembly by carefully breaking off the tabs on the top part of the valve... That is the part most visible to you when lookinjg in the city water inlet...

I then bored out (drilled) the valve body to a full 1/2 "... Then I installed a 1/4 turn ball valve just behind the city water entry... The picture below shows the valve in the closed position with the water system being supplied by the fresh water tank and pump/accumulator setup... If I were using the city water inlet, the pump handle would be parallel with the PEX tubing it's mounted in...





I ran my test with about 50PSI water pressure from my Watts regulator and flow in the shower and all faucets is much improved...

The other benifit of course is I don't have to worry about unseating the check valve when winterizing althugh you still have to relieve pressure before opening the valve otherwise I'll be looking in the back of the trailer for the screen washer in the city water entry...

Les


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JJBIRISH

Butler, PA, USA

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Posted: 06/24/08 08:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Les
you not only do great work, I know how you say it is therapy for you...

I was just wondering where you come up with all of your neat ideas???


Love my mass produced, entry level, built by Lazy American Workers, Hornet


USAFBILL

Alabama

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Posted: 06/24/08 08:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What prevents "back flow" in this modification? I thought the purpose of the check valve was to prevent "back flow" as required by law in most areas. Just wondering.

JJBIRISH

Butler, PA, USA

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Posted: 06/24/08 09:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bill

I think the check valve is mostly to prevent the water exiting the city inlet when running the pump... most states require the CG to have back flow preventers at the water source... we are required to have them on any waste water flushes...

but maybe you are correct...

LAdams

Northern Illinois

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Posted: 06/25/08 07:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The purpose of the check valve is to prevent water from flowing out of it when using the internal RV pump... To some, this is a more convenient method than closing a valve but some RV's (of an older vintage) have a valve installed rather than a check valve...

So in answer to your question, the valve itself will prevent backflow into the city water system when closed and when open the public water system will have more pressure than than the RV - - - and if it doesn't, that means the city water system isn't working and then you switch to internal again...

Quote:

Les
you not only do great work, I know how you say it is therapy for you...

I was just wondering where you come up with all of your neat ideas???


I think a lot No, seriously JJ, it's kind of a cause and effect thing... I noticed that my Oxygenics shower head had more pressure on the internal pump than when I was on city water and I started looking into why that was happening... I knew that the check valve diameter was smaller than the 1/2" ID of the internal PEX plumbing... I did the same thing of sorts when installing my quick winterizing setup... The commercial valves from RV stores have a much smaller opening to pass both antifreeze and freshwater whn in that position... Since I didn't want to compromise water flow from the fresh water tank, I simply made my own valve setup... I have the full complemint of PEX tools so modifying the plumbing in my rig is a pretty easy task...

A lot of modifying stuff I can blame on my engineering/technician background - I always need to find out why - - - - why it does work - or why it doesn't work... That can be a curse sometimes

Les

javaseuf

California's Gold Coast

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Posted: 06/25/08 10:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Nice work, Les.
I wondered the same thing so I removed my check-valve and just use a threaded plug to cap-off the city-water fitting when using the pump.


Steve
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LAdams

Northern Illinois

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Posted: 06/25/08 07:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Steve,

Did you bore the valve out for a bit more flow...

Oh and BTW guys, I didn't chip the paneling - another undocumented feature form the manufacturer

Les

javaseuf

California's Gold Coast

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Posted: 06/25/08 07:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

LAdams wrote:

Steve,

Did you bore the valve out for a bit more flow...

Oh and BTW guys, I didn't chip the paneling - another undocumented feature form the manufacturer

Les

No, I installed a new city water fill without the check-valve.

LAdams

Northern Illinois

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Posted: 06/26/08 07:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

right - and the ID was probably a full 1/2" right???

Les

bluwtr49

Green Valley, AZ

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Posted: 06/26/08 09:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had so many problems with low flow I finally just stopped using the regulator. The tubing and fittings are rated to 150 psi so I just go with line pressure.


Dick
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