So are you saying you are just using the bumper pull hitch with no W/D or Sway Control? Equalizer is a brand name so I am just trying to figure out your set up.
The info Mike gave above isn't valid. Trust me a F350 isn't going to come with a hitch rated at 5K, actually I haven't seen one rated on any truck rated less than 1,000 tongue weight and 10,000 tow weight, and the F350 ( depending on year) may have a 1500/15K hitch. Does this mean you are safe towing without W/D? NO, and heck no!!! 10K of gravel or stacked iron is totally different than a giant wall 10-12ft tall and 8 ft wide by 30 ft+ long!! I highly recommend you purchase a W/D hitch with sway control for your saftey and the saftey of others on the road with you. Nose down is just fine as long as it isn't grossly nose down, parallel( not level like everyone wants to say) to the ground is ideal. PM me with any ??
NCH
2000 Ford F350 4X4 PSD,CC, DRW
4:10's, BTM Muffler, Isspro Gauges,
Coolant Filter,CCV Mod
FTVB , Ford AIS
6.0 Cooler,SCT2 W/DP's 40 tow & 80 econo,Zoodad mod
2005 Keystone Hornet 30BHSS
Reese Dual Cam
Family of 4 saved by Grace!!! MY TRUCK OUR TRAILER
We tow our 31 ft TT with the C3500 in our sig. It is as level as I could get it using an Equalizer WDH. We've always used the Equalizer on previous TV and TT setups. The whole set up feels very, very solid.
IMO, it's an either or situation. If I couldn't get the TT level, I'd settle for slightly tongue down.
First, in order to answer this question correctly, it is important to know which type of suspension the dual axle trailer has. There is a difference in results between the two.
Leaf springs have a link called an "equalizer" between the front and rear springs on each side that helps distribute the load evenly between the axles, even if it is a bit nose up or down. Conventional wisdom applies that level is best, but slightly nose down is better than nose up and slightly nose down applies slightly more weight on the tongue.
Then there are the independent "torque flex" type axles popular on some brands. (Jayfeather?, Trail-lite? among others) They pose a completely different situation. Since there is no "equalizer" link between the front and rear axles, they react completely differently to nose up or down. Level is definitely best for these type of axles and they are much more sensitive to this than the leaf spring type for this reason.
Nose up creates the following: more weight on the rear axle, which not only can create tire problems, but actually increases tongue weight, since the fulcrum of the trailer weight is moved rearward.
On the other hand, the opposite is true when nose down.. Once again more weight on the front axle now, but since the fulcrum center of the trailer weight is moved forward, the tongue weight is reduced.
The major cause of dangerous trailer sway is low tongue weight.
As I stated; For these type of axles, level is most important.
* This post was
edited 06/26/08 05:02pm by Dixonmatco *
I tow a Flagstaff 831 RLSS (31Ft.)with a GMC Sierra Denali 4 door pickup, 6 ltr. engine. I towed from Birmingham, Al. to Montanna. Approximately 500 milse from home the right front tire on the trailer blew out. I replaced it with a new tire. Approximately 600 miles later I noticed the tread on the inside of the new tire was almost worn out. I move the new worn tire to the rear. After another 700 Miles I have noticed almost no wear. I feel like something is shifting with the axles. Has anyone had this problem? Does anyone have any idea what is happening. I can't see where anything has moved on axle mounts.
I use an Equalizer Hitch and tow almost level, slightly nose down.
Trailer tongue weight is rated at 530 lbs. With propane tanks, 2 batteries and the weight of the hitch its self the weight equals around 800 lbs. Trailer weight loaded is around 7000 lbs.
With the Reese DC setup....I measure in-between the trailer tires at the height of the I-beam....which translates to the top of the ball coupler which for me is 21.5"
once hooked up I'm usally down .5" to 21".....works perfect for me.
Proper set-up of your WD is needed to make life easy. Unless your changing your weights inside your trailer or rear of your truck(tongue weights or front of trailer weights) you should only have to get the WD set-up done right once, and every other time you hook up should be good-to go!
Any camping is good camping!
DH & DW , DD x 2
2008 Salem 27RB LTD
Yukon XL 1500 5.3SLT
Prodigy BC, DC Reese WD, Scan Gauge II
Days camped in 2008 -34-
All packed away for the season....
Nose up creates the following: more weight on the rear axle, which not only can create tire problems, but actually increases tongue weight, since the fulcrum of the trailer weight is moved rearward.
On the other hand, the opposite is true when nose down.. Once again more weight on the front axle now, but since the fulcrum center of the trailer weight is moved forward, the tongue weight is reduced.
???
George
"I was cut out to be rich, but I got sewed up wrong"
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 QC Laramie 4x4 SB CTD auto "Buck"
Flagstaff 26RLS
Hensley Arrow
Prodigy BC
"Perfectly level", are you kidding? Is that with a full tank of gas, half or what? What if mom trades places with a kid front to back. Do you get out and level your trailer. What happens when you get back in? Most hitches have 1 and 1/2 inches between adjustments. You should not be nose up, but in the holes that make you the least nose down. Probably only one in ten comes close to level. IMHO. Wait a minute, I have never been accused of being Humble, and the fact that I am mostly nose down. IMO.
Level is good, but none of it matters for analysing a particular rig unless one has individual axle weights, hitched up AND solo, both trailer and tow vehicle. The weight-distributing hitch needs to move about 2/3 of the tongue weight forward to the TV, and one-third to the TT axles. The TV "split" on the tongue weight should be about equal between the steer and drive axles.
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