The isolator appears to be a Sure Power Group 2 isolator. Here is a link to the Installation Instructions. On the fourth page, there are two checkout procedures for it.
A caution - You do not want to run the engine without a battery connected to the alternator output - that usually causes an alternator failure. The isolator connects the alternator output to both chassis and house batteries. You should be able to disconnect the house batteries, but be sure the diode in the isolator is good so the alternator still has the chassis battery for a load.
From the last picture you posted, it appears you can pull fuses 3 & 6 to silence the horn and turn off the brakelights while you work on other problems.
Could a harness be cut by metal under the dash shorting the horn and brake lights?
I printed out the Isolator manual last time you gave me the link,I I looked at the harness and so far no cuts. AS for the the Isolator First I checked for continuity on the cables and that was fine then I disconnected all the wires and checked for Ohms with a multimeter, not the kind recommended though since all I have now is a cheap digital multimeter and so far I get nothing, do I have to remove the isolator ground screws as well?
Thanks
* This post was
last
edited 07/03/08 02:44pm by wealthwise *
View edit history
It's been awhile since I posted the link for you... I just forgot...
Does the meter have a "Diode Check" setting? If so, use it. On digital ohmmeters, the voltage on the leads may be too low to "forward bias" the diode on the ohms scales and you cannot do a proper check. With the low voltsge on the probes, the meter just indicates an open circuit.
The "mounting screws" are simply that, you do not need to remove the unit from the vehicle.
I honestly don't think it can test a diode, but I am including a photo of the dial for you to look at, maybe, I'm wrong. Is there any other way to check the diode?
Next time you have the battery hooked up try pulling up/back on the brake pedal and see if the brake lights go out. Maybe the switch is out of adjustment.
Funny thing, I just realized that it's not the stop/brake lights that are staying on, it's the tail lights, the break lights, can be seen coming on because the tail lights get brighter when I step on the break pedal, I pulled the fuse to the tail lights and they still stay on, go figure. I also just realized that not only are there no bulbs in the backup lights, but the connectors are shot, I wonder if that could be causing the short? Anyhow there's not much I can do for that since that requires hard to find parts. I am now gonna keep my focus on the Isolator house battery issue, I don't have to worry about the lights since I'm not planning on driving the R.V. anywhere soon and I'm just trying to get in good enough shape to trade for a gas R.V.
I tried the diode setting on the isolator like the testing instructions say to do without any cables connected but it just shows 0, am I missing something?
Offline
