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 > Stuck coupler and other quirks on 07 Coachmen Classic

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Wildcat63

MN

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Posted: 06/29/08 09:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ok I started out wanting to move our new Coachmen into the garage to get it ready for our next trip. On our only trip before with the trailer the coupler was sticky and I had to whack it with a 2x4 to get it to latch, but it latched. Tonight I couldn't get it to latch no matter what I did. After we got it backed into the garage I was able to crawl under it and sprayed some white lithium grease into the mechanism and once it broke loose I greased the heck out of it with some axle grease I had lying around. It moves alot better than it did but still a little sticky. Would this be normal for it to be stiff and with all the grease is there ever a too much point where I should start de-greasing??????I think it is an atwood coupler with a 2 inch ball.

A couple of other things I had unscrewed the tongue jack to the point it came apart. (what a night) it basically just had to be screwed back together, Should I grease that? It looked like it had a bit of grease but looked pretty dry. Also when I was crawling around under the trailer I noticed a hole cut in the floor plywood. it was about 2 inches in diameter and it had a nylon mesh screen over it from the inside. Anyone have an idea what this hole is for? The screen isn't very mouse proof and I was thinking about covering it with a steel mesh or hardware cloth over it. But I want to know what
I am covering.

Thanks

Wildcat


Wildcat63
New PopUp 07 Coachmen Classic

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mike4947

N. Syracuse, NY

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Posted: 06/29/08 09:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When folks give me your complaint the first thing I look at is the ball. If the lower side facing the trailer is chewed up then it's usually a matter of readjusting the key that goes under the ball to keep it in the coupler.
If there's little or no marking and there's grease I have them hook up with me watching. In most cases it's a matter of compression. If the TV is backed up and the ball is forced rearward the handle/keeper can be a real pain to latch. Pulling the TV ahead slightly after dropping on the ball usually helps by not putting pressure on the keeper and allowing it to move freely.


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PattieAM

Maryland

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Posted: 06/30/08 07:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As Mike answered your first question, I might be able to address your question of the hole in the floor - most likely for an amenity you don't have (gas line for a furnace, for example), or if this PUP is a standard 'box' used by other floor plans, with amenities placed differently, it could have been pre-cut for another model. (My fleetwood has a screened hole with a gas line for my fridge through it).

While Mike answered your question, I had similiar hitch issues with my Fleetwood, and to get the coupler to disengage, I'd have to put the tow vehicle either in reverse or drive to reduce the stress on the ball/coupler, and use my emergency brake.

I bought a 'couple-mate' and have found it to be a great asset in hooking up as if the tongue is within the "V", it will guide the tongue over the ball and you simply lower the tongue onto the ball and latch it.

10tca01

Columbia Missouri

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Posted: 06/30/08 08:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What they said!

MrPressure

Texas

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Posted: 06/30/08 09:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

After long spells, my coupler won't slide back (open), this is while not hooked up. Some well placed spray lube along with persuasion frees it up for a long while. This is exactly what happened when I bought it, previous owner could not get the hitch to open, sprayed it, eventually it started moving.

Andrew in Canada

SW ONtario Canada

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Posted: 06/30/08 03:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Wildcat63 wrote:

Ok I started out wanting to move our new Coachmen into the garage to get it ready for our next trip. On our only trip before with the trailer the coupler was sticky and I had to whack it with a 2x4 to get it to latch, but it latched.

- I find with ours that you are best to attack from the rear, sort of get the hitch about an inch from the ball, and let it slide towards the vehicle as you lower it. If you look under the hitch, it makes sense why that works. I did not always have a big enough piece of 2x4 handy

Also when I was crawling around under the trailer I noticed a hole cut in the floor plywood. it was about 2 inches in diameter and it had a nylon mesh screen over it from the inside. Anyone have an idea what this hole is for?

- is this under or around the fridge? Ours has one presumably to let combustion air into the the fridge burner ???

HTH Andrew

Wildcat



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Wildcat63

MN

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Posted: 06/30/08 09:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The hole is near the fridge, I'll maybe give Coachmen a call and ask about that one. So for the coupler I'm thinking the more grease in and around it the better?????? I had just put some grease on the tow ball but never really spread it around the workings of the coupler before, is that what most of you do?

WIldcat

pete42

Jamestown, Ohio

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Posted: 07/02/08 07:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hate to ask but is ball and coupler the same size?





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