wa8yxm
Wherever I happen to park
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Joined: 07/04/2006
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The Small Silver boxes have a mounting tab and two bolts. There should be wires hooked to the two bolts.
Yes, they could be the problem.. You can go to an auto parts store (Auto Zone/Pep Boys) or many hardware stores and get a 12 volt test lamp.. This looks a bit like a screwdriver or awl with a light bulb in the handle and a wire.. I don't really like 'em cause most of 'em are... Junk (Some are good)
Or you can "home brew" I did the latter.. You will need
1: License plate lamp socket (I like the kind that takes the flat-edged bulbs)
1: Matching bulb
1: Length of wire (Small, 20 ga or so is ok, lenght is up to you)
2: Test clips (Alligator clips)
Tape to cover junction between socket lead and wire
One socket lead (Does not matter which) to Alligator clip. other to wire, tape conneciton, other end of wire gets the other clip. That easy
Start with the wire clipped to the battery NEGATIVE... Touch short lead's clip to POSITIVE.. Light.. good.. Move long lead's clip to the frame.. Repeat No light = bad/no chassis ground on battery.
Now move to the silver boxes. Touch both of the screws, one at a time.. Light good. no light bad
Now follow the wires from them to wherever they go.. Same procedure
NOTE you can also check the fuse this way.
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
John is Near Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
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Deen
Vancouver, WA
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Joined: 12/07/2000
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Are you confusing a converter (converts 120 to 12 V and sometimes includes a battery charger) with an inverter (converts battery power to 120 V so you can run TV etc without being plugged in)? Without an inverter your 120 V accessories won't work unless you're plugged in.
Deen - Vancouver, WA
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Maintcpo
Central California
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Joined: 11/26/2004
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I had the exact same problem a couple of years ago. I found a circuit breaker box under the tongue which has a push button reset on it. Reset the breaker and all was fine again. Try looking into that approach. Good Luck
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lauriep
Alberta, Canada
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Joined: 06/29/2008
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There doesn't appear to be a reset switch anywhere I can find....guess that fix would have been too easy 
I'm going to see if the breakers attached to the battery wire will make a difference. Here's hoping. Just in case I bought an extra couple regular battery powered lights today.
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Deen
Vancouver, WA
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Joined: 12/07/2000
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lauriep wrote:There doesn't appear to be a reset switch anywhere I can find....guess that fix would have been too easy
I'm going to see if the breakers attached to the battery wire will make a difference. Here's hoping. Just in case I bought an extra couple regular battery powered lights today. But still no answer to my question about having a converter rather than an inverter?
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lauriep
Alberta, Canada
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Joined: 06/29/2008
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Sorry to have not addressed your question 'Deen', I was in a bit of a rush out the door.
The item in question is definently a converter and not inverter. So that would mean that the plugs won't work unless plugged in, correct? That is fine, but shouldn't I still be able to get lights off battery power?
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vikx
Washington State
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Joined: 08/03/2006
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The two silver boxes sound like the resettable 12 volt circuit breakers. Yes, replacing them may fix your problem. Buy the same amperage (20? 30?)of the originals. When you replace them, check all the connections and wiring to make sure they were not melted/hot at one time. If the new breakers fail, then you've got to trace down why.
Your system works like this: the converter changes 110 house power into 12 volts to run the systems in the trailer. It also charges the battery when plugged in. The battery runs the 12 volt items when unplugged. The circuit breakers in line between the battery and converter protect against shorted wiring. If the breaker(s) fail, you have no 12 volts to the trailer. Good Luck. VK
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lauriep
Alberta, Canada
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Joined: 06/29/2008
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I replaced the circuit breakers and no change. Could the converter itself be toast?
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strollin
San Martin, CA
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Joined: 06/12/2003
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If the 12V lights work when plugged into shore power, that means the converter is working properly.
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vikx
Washington State
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Strollin is correct on the converter. You've got a problem between the battery and the trailer. Unplug shore power and test the 12 volt power lugs on the fuse board. There should be a large (usually red) wire from the battery and the ground (usually white). If there's no 12 volts, trace backwards toward the battery and test.
After installing the breakers, did you test for 12 volts on both studs of the breaker? If there's 12 volts, you can go toward the trailer, testing as you go. You may have a crimped wire somewhere and the breaker is actually doing it's job, not allowing power when there's a short.
Double check for main fuses at the converter. They can be hidden; usually 30 amps. Also check voltage at battery, it should be around 12.6. Another thought: see if you can trace the main power wire from the fuse board back to the battery. That will allow you to check for damage or breaks. VK
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