We just purchased our first truck camper. It is a 1989 Lance LC 900/11.3 on a 1989 Ford F350 4x4 with 2 inch lift and 35 inch tires on 16.5 rims, auto transmission, crew cab. We purchased both as a package. The previous owners used the camper extensively in the setup as we purchased it. Both the truck and camper are in excellent condition with the exception of the rear tires which are badly worn and need to be replaced. I've been reading through the information on this website (and a few others) and sincerely have become more confused rather than enlightened. It is the old conundrum of 'learning how much you DON'T know'...
We are thinking of replacing the tires with E rated instead of D rated because I was figuring the weight of the camper versus the truck ratings and have become concerned that the existing setup is in need of modification.
The GVWR on the truck is 9200.
Front GAWR - 4600
Rear GAWR - 6048
I have not taken the truck to a weigh station yet due to the condition of the tires but have estimated the truck weight (GCWR) at approximately 7500. I found this number in a forum discussion for a similar truck. At the moment, it is the closest I can get until I have the new tires installed.
The label on the Lance indicates 2548 with water and propane. This isn't the 'real world' weight because it does not include the batteries and generator, among other incidentals as well.
Is the camper suitable for this model truck? Should I have certain additional components installed for stability and safety? Are E rated tires necessary or preferable to the D rated tires? Are there other points I should be checking? Am I missing something? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
You will have the answer to your questions after you weigh the truck and camper. Get a weight without the camper and another with the camper on full of water,clothes, food, ready to travel. The camper is probably closer to 3500 pounds when loaded. Can you take the camper off and use the old tires to get you to a weigh station? Once you know the trucks weight full of fuel you will have a better idea about which tires you will need.
2007 F-350 SRW 6.0L Auto CC SB 4X4
2006 Outfitter Apex 8, 220W Solar and 3 AGM's
Ben is right on with his advice to get some real-world weights for your truck and camper. Beyond that, with your camper and truck in mind, I would definitely recommend moving up to 10 ply load range E tires over load range D tires (particularly since you mentioned that you currently have 35" tires on there now, which present a fair amount of side wall with a 16.5" wheel).
In terms of new tires, what do you plan to do with your rig? With the 2" lift and 35" tires, it potentially sounds like the prior owner may have used it for off-road boondocking. If you also want to do this, then you may want to go with a more off-road type tire. BFG All Terrain KO's (for a more compromise type tread), or Toyo Open Country A/T or M/T tires (the latter with more aggressive tread), could be some good tires to look at.
Once you get your weights figured out and get some new rubber on the truck, you are probably going to want to take your rig out (with the camper fully loaded) and drive it both on-highway and off-road, and see from your own perspective how it feels and handles in terms of overall stability. You may also need to look into the type and condition of the shocks (Rancho RS9000XL's are a great adjustable shock that can make a big difference). Do you have a rear sway bar? If not, do you need one? How about air bags or helper springs? These are all part of evaluating what you have, how it handles, and what you may or may not need. It's quite possible that the current set-up with a new set of tires maybe fine as-is.
I am sure others will also have some other ideas and advice for you.
No matter what the weight you can't go wrong with the E range tires. Preferably with a 3-ply sidewall. Tread pattern would, as has been mentioned, be based on your intended usage.
It is a safe(?) bet that you will be over the GVWR once you are fully loaded for a trip. How much so can only be found by weighing the rig. Even though the PO used the rig extensively, one person's comfort zone might be another's white knuckle experience. Only once you fully load up and take it for a drive will you be able to tell how it works with yours.
2007 F350,SC,LB,4x4,6.0/Auto,35" tires,16.5 Warn,Buckstop bumpers
2007 Outfitter Apex9.5,270W solar,SolarBoost2000e,2 H2K's,2KW inverter,2 20lb LP on slide out tray,4 Lifeline AGM bats,Tundra fridge
95 Bounder 28' ClassA sold
91 Jamboree 21' ClassC sold
You said the previous owner used the combo extensively - so I would say the camper is fine for the truck. If you're like most of us you probably exceed the GVWR by a bit.
As the others have said, buy good quality "E" range tires. (By the way GCWR is Gross Combined Weight Rating and it is the rating for the total weight of the truck PLUS anything the truck is towing like a travel trailer. With a camper, the one you need to concern yourself with is GVWR.)
You will have the answer to your questions after you weigh the truck and camper. Get a weight without the camper and another with the camper on full of water,clothes, food, ready to travel. The camper is probably closer to 3500 pounds when loaded. Can you take the camper off and use the old tires to get you to a weigh station? Once you know the trucks weight full of fuel you will have a better idea about which tires you will need.
Thanks for the warm welcome.
My neighbor told me that he weighs his truck at the grain elevator in town. I should have the actual weight soon. With the camper weight of 3500 we will will exceed the GVWR of the truck. Is it possible to have this restated if modifications are made to the truck?
Ben is right on with his advice to get some real-world weights for your truck and camper. Beyond that, with your camper and truck in mind, I would definitely recommend moving up to 10 ply load range E tires over load range D tires (particularly since you mentioned that you currently have 35" tires on there now, which present a fair amount of side wall with a 16.5" wheel).
In terms of new tires, what do you plan to do with your rig? With the 2" lift and 35" tires, it potentially sounds like the prior owner may have used it for off-road boondocking. If you also want to do this, then you may want to go with a more off-road type tire. BFG All Terrain KO's (for a more compromise type tread), or Toyo Open Country A/T or M/T tires (the latter with more aggressive tread), could be some good tires to look at.
Once you get your weights figured out and get some new rubber on the truck, you are probably going to want to take your rig out (with the camper fully loaded) and drive it both on-highway and off-road, and see from your own perspective how it feels and handles in terms of overall stability. You may also need to look into the type and condition of the shocks (Rancho RS9000XL's are a great adjustable shock that can make a big difference). Do you have a rear sway bar? If not, do you need one? How about air bags or helper springs? These are all part of evaluating what you have, how it handles, and what you may or may not need. It's quite possible that the current set-up with a new set of tires maybe fine as-is.
I am sure others will also have some other ideas and advice for you.
Good luck!
Don
Thank for all the great advice, Don! We are going to have the new shocks installed and potentially the rear sway bar along with the E tires.
jmcgsd wrote: You said the previous owner used the combo extensively - so I would say the camper is fine for the truck. If you're like most of us you probably exceed the GVWR by a bit.
As the others have said, buy good quality "E" range tires. (By the way GCWR is Gross Combined Weight Rating and it is the rating for the total weight of the truck PLUS anything the truck is towing like a travel trailer. With a camper, the one you need to concern yourself with is GVWR.)
Thanks for the clarification of the acronym. I'm on a steep learning curve.
If I understand correctly, we won't be able to pull the boat (2380 lbs) with our camper on the truck.
I have been extremely happy with my E-range Goodyear G133 drive treads in the rear and G147 steering tread in the front (rig weighs 10,000 pounds). They are industrial-style steel radials with belts up the sidewalls and have served me well for 80,000 miles with plenty of tread left. Pressure never changes. Check them out at your local Goodyear store. Expensive but well worth it.
See you soon on the American Road !
1973 Ford American Road 11.5' Camper with 450,000 enjoyable miles.
1985 Ford 250HD, 6.9Diesel/4-speed/3.54 limited-slip axle, Supercab, SRW. Consulting forester, Supervisor of SWCD, and NRA Life Member.
A city without trees ain't fit for a dog!
If I understand correctly, we won't be able to pull the boat (2380 lbs) with our camper on the truck.
MaK
Not quite true Makkao, do a search here and you'll find plenty of previous threads on this topic. You'll read posts from experienced users and others from 'weight police' wannabes. In the end it boils down to common sense and prudence. The sticker on the door can never be changed but that sticker is for the stock truck with the stock tires as delivered to the dealer prior to sale. The bottom line is that no one here has ever gotten a ticket for exceeding GVWR or GCWR or any other number stamped on a door jamb plate.
That simply isn't going to happen.
1994 Lance 990 on 1997 F350 PSD Dually
We also have a 'truck' that FLYS
Our 2008 trip to The Canadian Rockies
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