I am starting to test towing of my 03 Prius behind a '93 Coachman and have a couple of questions:
1) Keeping the chains from dragging - is it OK to just put a 'knot' in the chain keeper on the tow bar to keep those segments tight?
2) You'll notice I wrapped the left side chain around the rear bumper mounts because the frame opening on that side has the fuel tank filler pipe. I don't have a good way to keep the chain from touching the filler tube. Is this OK or should I anchor the chain around the welded on receiver hitch?
3) Both vehicles have 2" receivers and wiring. However, when the van turn signals activate, I get a brief flash, not very bright on both vehicles. Are there flasher units that extend the flash so the bulbs actually get bright? Can they be used all the time or do I have to swap them?
4) As you can see the Prius is significantly lower than the van. I plan to get an offset receiver adapter and will carefully measure the distances since I will be using one of the cable self-braking ball mounts. In this case, I'm using what I had available. Any tips or cautions?
5) I have had to replace the windshield after a rock picked up by a semi hit the wiper and bounced down into the glass. Is this one of those cases where I need 'mud flaps' on the tow vehicle or one of those 'skirt' things?
6) The weakest parts are rated at 4,000 lbs and the vehicle weights 2,700 lbs. However, I built my own adapters out of 1/4" steel plate held to the tie-down anchors with 5/8" bolts. The tie-down anchors are part of the frame. I've not done a full stress analysis but we don't have any appreciable slop or motion in the system. Any comments or concerns?
7) The transaxle lubrication is driven by the engine. So I run the Prius in "D" and above 42 mph, the engine runs all the time. I tested the car behind the van in "D" and put the Coachman in "N" and there was no motion. The Prius pushes a little but not enough to move the van without pushing the accelerator.
8) The Coachman is built on a 93 Chevy G30 van. It has a 350 CID, fuel injected engine and electronic selected, automatic transmission. It has anti-lock brakes, ~1,000 miles on tires, and new front and rear brakes. The steering has been fixed to make it tighter, we are scheduled for new shocks, replacing the block temperature sensor, wheel alignment, driver side window motor, and engine AC. We are going to get the odometer to start working again.
I bought it on Ebay for $4990 even after the owner had 'blown out the rear brakes' trying to clear the ABS failure light. He had the rear brakes fixed, $1,100 out of his pocket. After all the repairs, this will be our $6,800 RV, my wife's birthday present.
On the 600 mile trip back home from Silver Springs FL, I averaged:
9.0 MPG @65 mph
9.1 MPG @55 mph
16.1 MPG @60 mph
11.1 MPG @65mph after oil, plugs and air filter
The tow bar is rated at 55 mph so I hope to get ~15 MPG on trips. Is this about right?
Thanks,
Bob Wilson
* This post was
edited 07/05/08 01:16am by bwilson4web *
It appears from your photos and comments that you should consult with both the Pirus dealer and a reliable RV service center on what you are about to do.
The purpose of the chains is to catch the hitch, should it drop off the ball, and hold the hitch up until you can get stopped. I forsee a lot of things going wrong if any part of what you have rigged up failed. The best way to pick up the slack in chains, by the way, is to purchase some of the chain links with the screw opening on ones side. Get some rated for the pull. Put them on the proper link of the chain to get it up as high as you want, then connect them to the hitch side plates where the chains are supposed to hook. This is in addition to the original hooks. It is a way that has worked for me for many years.
As to running the car's engine to support transmission lubrication, if that is what you are saying, I'm sure the owner's manual and dealer would have something to say about that.
There are heavy duty flasher relays you can purchase and substitute for the original. They are built for the additional current drain and should solve that problem.
Again, I strongly suggest you have your hookup reviewed by someone with professional experience before you head out.
VernM
GMC Conversion van/Wells Cargo MiniWagon trailer
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VernM wrote: It appears from your photos and comments that you should consult with both the Pirus dealer and a reliable RV service center on what you are about to do.
I like the idea of visiting an RV service center to make sure the tow equipment is up to snuff. As for the Prius, I have already done the engineering and have a good vehicle monitor to track system performance.
VernM wrote: The purpose of the chains is to catch the hitch, should it drop off the ball, and hold the hitch up until you can get stopped. I for see a lot of things going wrong if any part of what you have rigged up failed.
Details? I am planning to put cotter pins in the critical bolts to make sure the nuts don't back out. I would use castle nuts but they are not that common.
VernM wrote: The best way to pick up the slack in chains, by the way, is to purchase some of the chain links with the screw opening on ones side. Get some rated for the pull. Put them on the proper link of the chain to get it up as high as you want, then connect them to the hitch side plates where the chains are supposed to hook. This is in addition to the original hooks. It is a way that has worked for me for many years.
Great tip! Will do.
VernM wrote: As to running the car's engine to support transmission lubrication, if that is what you are saying, I'm sure the owner's manual and dealer would have something to say about that.
Actually I have the maintenance manuals and have been pretty active in the Prius technical community for the past three years. I'm very confident in this approach but will be testing a variation.
During the initial tow, the battery charges to the maximum 80% and then we believe the only tow vehicle drag would be anything the hybrid vehicle ECU requires. Fortunately I have a scanner and will be able to check this. Worse comes to worse, I'll drive 10 miles and stop to check all of the links. Then I'll start the engine by turning on the AC; slip it into "N"; turn off the AC; and continue the rest of the trip with the engine in idle and running the transaxle pump.
VernM wrote: There are heavy duty flasher relays you can purchase and substitute for the original. They are built for the additional current drain and should solve that problem.
Again, I strongly suggest you have your hookup reviewed by someone with professional experience before you head out.
Check the van's tires if you don't know their age... that '1,000 miles' doesn't mean much if they're over 5-6 years old. There's a manufacturing date coded on the sidewall.
Jim, "The only commissioned work of art I own is a chainsaw bear."
'06 Tiger CX 'C Minus' on a Silverado 2500HD 4x4, 8.1 & Allison ('Loafer's Glory'); '07 Forester 2.5 ( the 'HANDBSKT'); '95 Toyota SR5 V-6 4x4 pickup, ARB locker, Bilsteins, Warn hubs & M8000, etc;
'94 968, M030 swaybars ('DOPPLER')
Yaps, Not having used a Ready Brake, I understand they apply the brakes in a brake situation, some one else can give you better answer.
Have you looked at an oil pump add one. I don't know if it will work with your car, but on some, it circulates the oil so you don't need to run the engine to lube the Trans. Bill
Polishnurse wrote: ... Have you looked at an oil pump add one. I don't know if it will work with your car, but on some, it circulates the oil so you don't need to run the engine to lube the Trans.
With an ordinary transaxle it might work but the Prius uses a planetary gear and motor generator, MG1, for engine-to-wheel gear ratio.
MG1 has a speed limit of 6,500 rpm and without the engine turning, that happens at 42 mph. So I need to have the engine running not only for the oil pump but also to prevent MG1 from spinning too fast. Now I have gone as fast as 50 mph with the engine not spinning but this is not something I want to make a regular practice.
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