mtofell1

Oregon

Senior Member

Joined: 12/08/2006

View Profile

Offline
|
I got the underbelly opened right up and pretty good access. All four bolts came right out and now it just spins around. I can pry the plumbing fittings/pipes on either side of valve far enough apart to see there's some kind of flange on each side of the valve that extends some distance up/down inside the pipe.
Am I really supposed to dismantle more of the plumbing system just to change out this leaking part?
Honestly, if there's more to this I think it's just going to have to leak. Luckily, it's just the gray water (shower/sink only). The valve in question is just inches between the gray tank and the junction with the black waste. I have no idea how you'd even cut the pipe and then re-glue a new valve in. It's just all one junction to another.
I think they started with this valve and built the trailer around it 
I've stopped for the night to re-group... thanks for any advice or words of encouragement.
|
vikx

Washington State

Senior Member

Joined: 08/03/2006

View Profile

Offline
|
The valve is just a skinny thing-about 3/4"? maybe. The things you're seeing in the pipe are the flange adapters. I'm wondering is something is stuck together? You're right, it should just slip out and the new one in. A good night's rest and it'll happen. Good Luck, VK
|
outdoorsman2007

In the Woods - Somewhere!

Senior Member

Joined: 04/12/2007

View Profile

|
No it probably won't just slip out easily. There is a small flange (about a 1/4") on each side of the gate valve assembly. If you can't spread the pipes to slide it out you may have to loosen one of the tanks and slide it a 1/4" or so to give you enough room. I replaced the black tank on a 2001 Montana fifth wheel and it was a bear to get it apart and back together.
|
mtofell1

Oregon

Senior Member

Joined: 12/08/2006

View Profile

Offline
|
Thanks for the help guys... Yeah, I don't think it will spread apart far enough without moving one side or the other. I'd likely have to loosen/move the gray tank and who knows what else.... Am I just expecting too much in thinking this is a bit ridiculous?
This seems to be bordering on a really, really bad design
|
Deen

Vancouver, WA

Senior Member

Joined: 12/07/2000

View Profile

|
Should be glued together, every one I've had or seen has been. Probably have to cut the pipe and add some when you put it back together. Never seen it any other way yet, but I haven't gotten my Newell or Prevost conversion yet either!!
Oops, left out Foretravel or BlueBird!!
Deen - Vancouver, WA
'02 Dutch Star 4090 (41+', triple slide)
435/1200 ISC Cummins/Banks PowerPak
'08 Honda Civic/dolly
'05 Honda Odyssey/dolly
NRA Benefactor Life Member
FMCA f47302s, Life Member: Good Sam,
Newmar DP Owners Group
51st yr of RV'ing
|
|
|
vikx

Washington State

Senior Member

Joined: 08/03/2006

View Profile

Offline
|
Well, if there's absolutely no other way, consider a "fernco" connector. They are rubber with radiator clamps-a quick way to connect a pipe you may have to cut. (and move again in the future) I haven't had the situation you describe, where there is no way to slip the valve out. Cutting and glueing with a cupler would work as well. VK
|
outdoorsman2007

In the Woods - Somewhere!

Senior Member

Joined: 04/12/2007

View Profile

|
Don't cut anything! As you have already noticed, you will have to loosen one of the tanks hold down bars and nudge the tank so you can get the gate valve out - you won't have to nudge it far - 1/4 inch should be all you need. If you cut a pipe you will have to drop the tank in order to repair it. That will mean you will have to break the connections of the pipes connected to the top of the tank. I repeat - DON'T CUT ANYTHING!
|
Maintcpo

Central California

Senior Member

Joined: 11/26/2004

View Profile

|
Probably more than anything you need a helper. One person pulling the pipe back the 1/4" and the other pulling the valve out. This can be a real pain of a job, since the o=rings are tough to keep seated when reinstalling. I had to do mine last summer, and did it twice since the first time the o-ring didnt seat right and was leaking. Second time it worked great
Dan, Ret Navy CPO
Minnie The Wife Extraordinare
Chris Our Son the Genius
3 Dogs 1 Dumb , 1 Fat and Stubborn, and 1 new and Adorable
2005 Jazz 2550RL 5er
2003 Dodge Quad Cab Long Bed Cummins 6 shooter
|
99damon

Colorado

Full Member

Joined: 09/20/2007

View Profile

Offline
|
I was about to post the same question when I found this discussion. I can get my valves out - barely - the problem is getting them back in without distorting the o-rings. Maintcpo may have been lucky to only do it twice. I'm on my 3rd set of o-rings, and still don't have a smooth valve action.
One RV tech told me to use grease (I tried Vaseline) to kind of stick the rings in place while you insert the valve. All that did was make everything slippery. I'm not leaking, but the blade definitely is rubbing a crease or distortion on the o-ring, so I'll be trying again.
It really does come down to not enough room. With another half inch of play, you could stick this thing together, first time every time. I really dread manipulating holding tanks. This is turning into the story about the guy who wants to change a faucet washer and ends up with a flood, some plumbers and a divorce. Jeez.
Wayne
Fulltimers
1999 Damon Intruder 341
|
mtofell1

Oregon

Senior Member

Joined: 12/08/2006

View Profile

Offline
|
Yep, this is just a ridiculous design. I'm thinking it's just this way on some trailers because I've seen this discussed as a '10-minute job' by many people.
I actually haven't messed with mine again and I think I'm just going to put it back together and let it leak a bit. It's just the gray tank.... I guess I'll just have to tell the wife to stop peeing in the shower
|
|
|