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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Frig takes a dump on maiden trip (used TT)

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potatoflake

Michigan

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Joined: 04/04/2005

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Posted: 07/07/08 02:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

First time in my new/used unit. Everything was great for appox 24 hours and then I noticed there were no lights on the frig panel. Opened and no inside light and the ice in the freezer was starting to melt.

Not sure if it's a contributor but I was using my laptop plugged in outside prior to this.

2003 Coachmen Captiva D275
Dometic

Lone camper so here's what I checked:
outlet frig plugged into--ok
any tripped breakers--no
anything else w/o power?--lights/outlet dead on slide (like that before frig died)
work on gas?--no power light with gas either, lit burner to ensure gas there
fuse blown on frig control module--both ok
GFI related?--tested and reset all kitchen and bath outlets
30A exterior power--only unit plugged into 14 outlet panel, no tripped breakers including 30A


Membership campground and the unit is stored there. Looking for things to check when I'm back.

ps. I'm a gal, so don't make ansers to technical, I'm not stupid but I am ignorant when it comes to these kind of things.

STINGRAYRVMAN

PANAMA CITY

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Posted: 07/07/08 02:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

no lights inside refer means you probably blew a 12vdc fuse. check your fuse panel 1st. there is also a fuse inside the control box on the back of the fridge but it is probably in the main fuse panel

mike4947

N. Syracuse, NY

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Posted: 07/07/08 03:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yup, 12 volt fuse and/or a shorted wire. Your fridge requires 12 volt on propane AND 120 volt to run the thermostatic control.


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Dixonmatco

Santa Rosa, California

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Posted: 07/07/08 03:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I sounds like you have done most of your testing on the 110V system in your trialer, when in fact it appears to have a 12V problem. These RV refridgerators use a 12V control system for any mode of operation, since when there is not 110V available, it runs on LP and 12V electric from the battery or Batteries on your trailer. You have a converter on board to supply 12V to the 12V system as well as charge the Battery when it is plugged into a CG outlet or a generator.

OK:
Your converter is not working (fuse? Breaker) and your battery is dead, or you have a blown breaker or fuse in the 12V system. If these are true, your 110V outlets and/or 110V lighting will still work fine. 12V lights will be dead if the Battery/converter is dead. If your 12V lights still work, look for a fuse for the 12V refer circuit.

Simple test: Unplug TT power and see if any of your lighting still works. Check the battery charge level idicator.


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rhillx4

Huntington Beach ,CA

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Posted: 07/07/08 03:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you cant figure it out. Ask a neighbor to help you. The kids and I were at a CG a few months back while dh was at work and I had a problem with TT. I went out and asked the fella next door if he could help me out. He was more than happy.
Good luck! Hope you find the problem.


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mbopp

Henrietta, NY, USA

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Posted: 07/07/08 03:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had a 12V wire rub through on a sharp corner on the fridge burner box. It worked OK when stopped but blew a fuse when travelling. Some electrical tape & ty-raps fixed it & re-positioned the wires.


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