wa8yxm wrote: Label if you have a box like the one above then the first breaker is an "odd" and the second one is an "even" You simple move breakers from an "odd" (or even) slot to an Even (or odd) slot to move things leg to leg
Doesn't LINE 1 mean 1 50amp leg and LINE 2 mean the other 50amp leg?
So that means that all those to the left are on 1 leg and all those to the right are on another leg
So there's no odd/even distribution - it's all Left and Right.
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Having just looked at the panel, I have one more question that you may not be able to answer - where is the circuit breaker for the Microwave and front outlets??? Are these the two 20a breakers mounted outside on the inverter? If so what is 'Bedroom'
Man this is confusing
That panel looks almost exactly like mine. The big difference I see is that where you have a single breaker for "Water Heater" I have a dual circuit breaker for "Water Heater" and "Central Vac."
In mine, there is the single 30 Amp circuit going to the inverter. Besides providing power to charge the battery, it also provides power to an automatic transfer switch inside the inverter. This exits the inverter through the two 20 amp circuit breakers on the front of the inverter, and goes to power the outlets from the bathroom forward, as well as the TVs, microwave, and refreigerator ice maker/dispenser. When the AC power is cut off, and the inverter is on, the automatic transfer switch flips and powers those circuits from the batteries.
Most inside and outside convenince outlets and appliances are fed from these two circuits. The exception is the wall outlets in the bedroom. Those are fed from the bedroom breaker in the AC panel, and cannot be powered by the inverter. I find that annoying because that means that when I'm dry camping, I can't adjust the bed "sleep number" without starting the generator! What a pain.
I can't be sure that's the way yours is wired up, but since the panel looks the same (including the layout and font of the description label) and you mentioned the two breakers on the inverter, I'd be real surprised if you are wired differently.
stevelv wrote: Doesn't LINE 1 mean 1 50amp leg and LINE 2 mean the other 50amp leg?
So that means that all those to the left are on 1 leg and all those to the right are on another leg
So there's no odd/even distribution - it's all Left and Right.
Correct. In this case, thie breaker panel is not wired like a typical household panel. It's not odd/even, it's left/right. I guess that's so you don't put in a double breaker thinking you can get 240 volts when you might not get it (like when on a 30 amp circuit)?
Like I said earlier, if you look at your breaker panel, it should be pretty easy to figure out which load is on which circuit. It was, wasn't it?
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2002 Chevy Avalanche toad
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Having just looked at the panel, I have one more question that you may not be able to answer - where is the circuit breaker for the Microwave and front outlets??? Are these the two 20a breakers mounted outside on the inverter? If so what is 'Bedroom'
Man this is confusing
Your inverter/convert has a 30A input from the pictured CB on the panel. Your inverter/converter has a ATS and 2 20 CB outputs, one for the MW and one for the front of the rig.
Plug into shore power and trip one CB at a time and determine what is on that CB and this needs to include the 2 output CB's on the inverter/converter. Most likely you have a 30A CB on the input of the inverter/converter which you can also trip to determine that the converter and the 2 output CB circuits are off.
In spite of your rigs 50A capability your panel is set up so that you cannot install a dual CB or use any 240V appliances. So if you wanted for example a 240V dryer, to bad.
CA Traveler wrote: In spite of your rigs 50A capability your panel is set up so that you cannot install a dual CB or use any 240V appliances. So if you wanted for example a 240V dryer, to bad.
My understanding is that this is quite typical for an RV, and may even be intentional.
Yes, when plugged into a 50 amp socket, you do have 240 volts entering the rig, even though nothing is wired up to use it. But when using a 30 amp adapter (or adapting that down further to 20 or 15 amps) there will be no 240 volts available because the two hot legs will be tied together and in the same phase. You will still get 120 volts between either hot leg and neutral, bot nothing between the two hots.
Furthermore, all of the generators I've seen in RVs, including my own Onan 8000 watt Quiet Diesel, are actually 120 volt generators. Mine has two 33 amp outputs, but they are in phase with each other, and no 240 volts are available. There may be rigs out there with a 240 volt generator, but I've not seen them.
There are some all-electric coaches out there with no propane, and they may have 240 volt appliances. In that case, I assume they would have 240 generators. But it would seem to me you would then be limited to 50 amp hookups, or the generator, and that's it. 30, 20, or 15 amp hookups would be usesless.
Shifter you are correct. Until just a few years ago RV 50 amp panels were setup like the one in the image. Which is one reason a lot of folks think 50 amp is only 120 volt.
Recently higher end RV's started using residential style breaker boxes with the busses located so 240 volt breakers other than the main could be used.
First, thank you to everyone that takes the time to share their thoughts, ideas and experiences.
This summer, I have run into the problem of having a coach set up for 50 amp service, but being in a park offering only 30 amp service. I have been reading about cheater boxes and am a little nervous about potential damage to my coach and to the wiring systems of the park.
Then, I stumbled across the Power Solutions adapter. This sounds intriguing. But, I can't seem to understand the premise or how to set it up.
I have considered trying to find a way to separate my second AC unit and run it specifically from the 20 am circuit at the park pedestal.
If any one out there can help me understand the operation and installation of the Power Solutions adapter, I would be very appreciative.
Or if there are other alternatives, I'd love to hear them too.
Sorry to resurrect this guys but please help me out again.
Just returned to the same Park - you remember, 2 sites converted to 1 pull thru so 2 * 30amp sockets - both on the same leg.
Anyway, plugged the cheater in and tested the voltages
Each Live to Neutral shows 120-125v
Live to Live shows 0v
So, plugged the 50amp cord in and ....
EMS is showing that I have a 30a supply and sheds loads when I exceed 30a.
This worked just fine 2 weeks ago when I was parked in a different site so any ideas? Almost as if the transfer box is confused but it should work, shouldn't it?
The EMS has only one way it can tell 30 from 50 amps. That's to measure the live/live voltage, yours is zero, zero on across the legs = 30 amp via a dog bone
240 across the legs (most likely anything over around 200) means 50 amp circuit.
That's how an EMS sees things.. If I were desiging an EMS there would be a manual override.. I, however, did not design them and do not know if such feature exists.
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business John is Near Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
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