HERE is a comparison between the Surge Guard and the Progressive units.
Progressive EMS's has MUCH better features and is prefered for more joules protection...along with providing visual readouts which the Surge Guard does not have.
2006 Winnebago Voyage 35A, W-22
Brake Buddy, Aventa II tow bar, Protect-A-Tow
2005 Hyundai Elantra toad
We've had the hard-wired Surge Guard in the past, as well as AEC, but this time I decided to get the Progressive.
We had our Surge Guard back when they offered a remote switch for bypassing the shut down when the problem is low voltage. We've used this feature a number of times to use our lights and charge our batteries, so it is important to us. But, they stopped making the remote several years ago for some reason. To use the manual by-pass on a Surge Guard, you have to insert a key and turn it to the by-pass position. This means that (a) the unit has to be mounted where you can reasonably access it, and (b) you have to keep track of the key. Also, there is no indication that you are in the by-pass position other than the key position. by comparison, the display of the Progressive says "OFF" when the by-pass switch is used.
The Progressive unit also gives a constant revolving readout of trouble code, voltage, amps and Hz. Sure, I could use my Fluke DVOM to check the pedestal but I'd also have to check it for all the possible faults that can easily happen in a campground pedestal every time I hook up and frankly that's a major PITA.
Finally, the Progressive is more compact so it's easier to mount inside the typically confined space.
Steve & C. J.
"Gracie" the Rough Collie & "Bo'sun" the Bichon Frise
Insert your black/ground probe into the round/grd socket, then insert the red/positive probe into the right/line socket (looking at it) you should read 120+/- 10 volts. Then insert the red/pos probe into the left/common socket, you should not read anything above 10 volts.
Note: if you are using a less expensive meter make sure you are set to VOLTS/AC!!!! Or you will no longer have a meter!
As usual anymore I come to RV.net when I have a problem, and as always get some good information. I have been rv'ing for many years, and have never had a problem with campground electrical other than an occasional tripped breaker. First with my pick up camper, and for the last few years with my Jayco TT.
Let me relate what happened on my last camping trip. I camped at a Michigan State Park (Clear Lake). I've camped there many times before. One afternoon I noticed that my charger for my 18V drill driver wasn't working. I had plugged it into an external outlet on the TT that was GFCI protected. The circuit checked ok, so I disassembled the charger. I found that the internal glass fuse was blown. At the time I figured it was just a fluke. Later that evening (actually at 3:00 AM) I awoke to a loud popping noise. And, noted smoke was coming out of the portable TV we have plugged into the TT and setting on the counter. I noticed the lights in the camper were fluctuating brighter and then dimmer, so I checked all connections and found no problem. I switched off the breaker at the supply pole and switched it back on and the problem went away. So I went back to bed. I thought, if this happens again I will get out my multimeter and check the voltage. But, after that it seemed ok. Just before we left though I got a voltage error message on the frig, and the microwave went dead. The breaker in the TT for the microwave wasn't tripped. I've got to pull it out and check, but I suspect the internal fuse in the microwave is blown. I'm a retired elect engrg tech and am scratching my head trying to figure out how low voltage would blow fuses (ie; low voltage usually mean low current). I think I was getting momentary voltage surges on the line, perhaps from a bad nuetral ground in the breaker box. I pitched the portable tv, figured it had a blown power supply. And, will update to one with a digital tunner anyway. Not worth taking the time to fix.
Back here at home plugged into my dedicated 30 amp RV circuit I have seen no problems (except for the dead microwave I haven't fixed yet). So I am pretty sure it was the campground supply and not my TT. After reading though this thread, I think I will invest in the Progressive HW30 hardwired unit with display for the extra piece of mind.
Increases the input voltage from 8% to 16% automatically.
Fully automatic voltage booster.
Surge protection in all modes.
State of the art circuit boards.
Checks for correct polarity and ground fault.
U.L. Approved components.
Low voltage cut-off when incoming voltage decreases to 93 volts or lower - Power is shut off.
High voltage cut-off when incoming voltage increases to 129 volts or higher - Power is shut off.
When input voltage is normal, 116 volts or higher, the boost is bypassed.
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