315 wrote: If a bank of 4 12v (27's) batteries were charged to 90% and only the frig. (on gas) ...no lights, "no nothing" is turned on, how long would you expect the batteries to last before they drop to 50%...12 hours, 24 hours a couple of days, 4 days?
I know this question has been asking many different ways..so thanks for your patience!!!
I charge my bank for 3 hours when they reach 50% and by next moring they are back to 50% without using lights or anything power execpt frig and co2 monitor. A little frustrating.
Thanks in adavance!!!!!
Bottom line? 3 hours charging when that battery bank is at 50% isnt about to get you back up to 100% charged. Thusly...the batterys are back down again after running all night
2000 Country Coach Allure; Cummins ISC 330 HP; 71/2 - 8 MPG regardless
2002 Jeep Liberty
Re: Charging: What the person who said. Using an 80 amp charger and coming up from 50% it takes 2 hours to hit 90 percent, and six to 8 to fully charge
If you double the batteries, double the time to hit 90 percent, and add the difference to full charge (that is 4 hours to 90 percent, 8-10 to full)
That's minimum
As for how long 2 pair of golf car batteries will run a RV fridge. Oh, likely around 4-8 days at a guess, perhaps longer I checked both Norcold and Doemtic sites and could not find a figure for DC draw when running on gas
When running on 12 volt DC (3-way fridges only) they won't last long
But figure < 2 amps, you have 220 amp hours so that's over 110 hours
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business John is Near Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
But figure < 2 amps, you have 220 amp hours so that's over 110 hours
@ < 2 amps, (Assumeing you have 220 amp hours) = 110 hours X 50% = 55 hours / 24 = 2.3 days, Approx. If you want to keep the batteries from being destroyed by discharging them too deeply.
Jerry, Dottie & Chan, "the little furry one"
98 Bounder 34V, 99 F-53 Ford V10 chassis
06 Saturn VUE 4I
Our Dometic fridge has a "humidity control" switch on the inside edge of the door for the freezer. I believe that this runs from 12V DC and consumes a great amount of energy. Make sure this is turned off.
As far as battery state of charge, without a decent control panel (Trimetric, Xantrex, or other) the state of charge of your battery bank is just speculative guesswork.
A WFCO converter or any other smart converter that is NOT controlled manually must have the size wire from the battery to the converter that is specified in the installation instructions. That is NOT a WFCO specific problem. When I installed my WFCO 55a converter I read the instructions and sized the wires as specified. It works just like it is supposed to. Most of the supposed issues with smart converters not working like they are supposed to work come from not upgrading wire size when upgrading converter to battery charge capability.
As a example just because you are replacing a older 45a converter with a new 45a three stage smart converter doesn't mean the wires to the battery are OK. That old 45a converter was probably only capable of putting 6-8a to the batteries where as a 45a smart converter can apply all 45a of its output to the batteries.
Jim
Jim, Sharon and Buddy the Yorkie
1999 Gulfstream Sun Voyager 31' ISB Cummins 210 uprated to 275
275 RV injectors
Trippe-Lite 1800w inverter 4-6v GC batteries
3- Kyocera 130w solar panels
1987 Suzuki Samurai tintop Toad w/VW 1.6 turbo diesel power
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