Hi
Sold fifth wheel unit and looking for a used class C. Considering 1999 - 2003 units . Anyone have any suggestions or advice on what might I should stay away from?
Thanks!
* This post was
edited 07/18/08 08:27am by AZGarfield *
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Garfield, Wife & 13 Year Old Future MLB Player
2004 Gulf Stream Conquest 6725 27' Class C
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Leakers, ones that will not start and if they do start make sure they will stop.
I am serious. It would be hard to find one in this age range that would not be be good if the three above things do not come into play. Do not rule out a Class A. We were about to close on a C and found an A 3' longer and 7 years newer for the same price.
Wait till the right price point before closing on any deal because there are C's in your age range selling for $15,000 less than 6 months ago already. According to some posting here the banks are heading their way so the prices will continue to drop for the next 12 - 18 months I expect and then things will reverse due to few new ones being built for the next few years. So much money is flowing into the housing market or will be flowing into the housing market as the foreclosures increase it will be late in the next boom cycle most likely before MH factories will be able to gain financing to start up again.
There are so many factors to consider.......one of course is price.
Gale Hawkins' post makes some excellent points, one is that there are many used Class As that are somewhat near the price of some used Class Cs.
It all depends on what you can afford, and what you want to be comfortable with on as many points as possible.
I currently own and drive a luxury diesel model Class C that cost as much or more than many lower-end Class As. But it was what I wanted, on as many points I could think of I was willing to live with, versus a Class A. I've had a diesel Class A, and it was a fine rig, very fine! But I decided to downsize to a Top-Shelf luxury diesel-motorcoach Class C.
One American motorhome benchmark in my mind has been the Winnebago brand. Why? Because a whole industry was hatched and people still call motorhomes, "Winnebagos." Check them out along the way in your shopping.
Start by making livability list of things you liked and loved about your 5th wheel. There are so many absolutely great things about a 5th wheel that many Class As don't fulfill, much less a Class C. But by the same token, there are things about a C, that neither the 5th wheel or Class A can touch.
Some time after I bought the Class C, I was second guessing myself that perhaps I should have gone the PU / slide-in camper route......but all in all, I'm glad I went with a C years ago. It is all of what I need, and I love it's livability for me.
I have a sweet tender nature, however I enjoy sharing my thoughts and opinions.
Im not going to recomend a class A vs a Class C, Ill assume you have made that decision.
But I would recomend that you not look at any class C older than a 1998, this way if its a Ford (and 95% of them in that age range are) it will have the V-10 in a E-450SD chassis, and with that 4sp OD transmission, it makes a great chassis to drive. Also look for a unit with papers on its maintenance, it means its owner took good care of it, and this is more important than miles on the clock.
On a Ford web site they talk about these engines lasting well over 300K.
And of course check them all close for leaks, and take your time and look around. Its a buyers market.
2001 27' Four Winds Class-C E-450 V-10.
Buick Park Ave Ultra, Ford Ranger PU, JD 500 backhoe.
1941 Farm All "A"
great and thanks to all that have contributed. So here is the situation - we had a fiver, and like the convenience with motorized. We actually were planning to get a smaller fiver as don't see the need to pull a 32 foot for just the three of us. Also like 25 - 27 foot as many national parks like to see that your trying to park something smaller than 28 foot. Also like to get a V10 and stay around 25 foot - less strain on the engine than a 29 - 32 foot. So I continue my search..
AZ there is really no increase in load on the engine between one 25 foot and 32 foot that the motor will notice. Either the Ford 6.8 or Chevy 8.1 in MH of that size have plenty of power. I think running the dash A/C will cut your power more than adding 5-7 foot of length. 25' would be a little easier to get around in but may not ride as well or handle as great in high winds do to wheel base alone.
In my opinion, the method of construction is the heaviest consideration in RV selection. Since you are buying a 5 to 9 year old RV, the best years are behind, and the worst are ahead. Here are some things to look for in a well constructed, older RV, class-C, B+ or A
The best construction method is a one piece fiberglass shell like Coach House makes. But that severely limits your options. Alternatives made as follows should provide you years of good service, even starting out with a 9 year old unit.
- Metal framed floor, walls, and ceiling. NO wood framing.
- Gel coated vacu-bonded fiberglass exterior walls, not flat sheets of fiberglass with seamwork & trim in all the corners, which often have heavy chip board sheathing just behind the fiberglass sheets. Wood rot and formalahyde fumes are concerns with chip board and corner seam work.
- Arched roof. A flat roof will sag over time, with water puddling around the heavy a/c unit. When the caulk fails, in comes the water.
- Fiberglass sheet stock roofing is better over the alternatives, with best long term durability
- Five sided rear fiberglass cap by design, moves the seamwork in from the corners where there is no stress. Seamwork in corners is where many water leaks occur due to the high stresses during driving. Like with the roof, when caulk gets old, it cracks, then in comes the water.
- The same applies for the front cap, which is common on A's and B+s, but hard to find on C's
Any RV made with wood framing and wood exterior walls covered in sheet fiberglass generally will have more issues than those made with the points mentioned above. Since you are buying a used RV, construction issues will come up shortly, so it's best to be avoided.
Do your reseach on what RV's are made this way and see if you can find one that you like and can afford. Be sure to have fun with your mission.
Bought new in June 2007, Phoenix Cruiser-2350
Fits inside our garage.
Dingy towing a red Toyota MR2 Spyder
See The Inside by clicking on "View Profile" and scroll down
Wow, this is an open ended question.. how big is your checkbook? As mentioned, metal frame work is best, but sometimes hard to find. No glass in the cab over is my vote, one piece domed roof (so water rolls off of it when parked), leveling jacks (I like BigFoot), EFI with overdrive, 460 or V10 w/ E4OD tranny is a work horse), no dinnette behind drivers seat so you can recline it a little bit rolling down the road, LARGE exterior storage doors, 15k a/c, working dash a/c, 5k gen, I'm not a fan of slide-outs, I also vote for crank out louvered windows over sliders (you can keep them open slightly in the rain), I prefer metal siding, largest wheels and tires you can get, I'd probably stick w/ gas over disiel, tall enough shower to stand up in comfortably, walk around bed in the back, I'd rather have couches, chairs and tables and no dinette, air ride suspension. I've grown to like Itasca and Tioga but in all reality, all brands are pretty good and they all have their +/-'s. I LOVE Class C's... you're always in the shade driving, easy to drive and any garage will work on them because they're a van; Even though a class A has the same kind of drivetrain, some just get "scared" of them... Also, I'd recommend keeping it at 31' or it'll start to ride rough... also, TEST DRIVE IT...some Ford chassis (like mine), just seem to hit hard on bumps, etc., I wish I had air ride suspension.
while i can't get into the techno-stuff some of the guys do, i will put in a positive note on our 2003 minnie winnie--low miles when we got it--little wear on upholstery and in bathroom sink--but otherwise kept in good condition and loaded with lots of little goodies we are still discovering. mechanically speaking--super; manuverability-wise--my husband says it drives like a van--i've not driven it and he's not experienced any handling issues. it has sufficient ccc and the large basement storage doors/areas to store lawn chairs, etc., while inside sufficient cabinets to make the rv stay very comfortable. the floor plan for us 2 (with occasion guests) is very accommodating (2 slides). we've had it out in march; very low temps, plumbing and heating system had no probs. i know this unit probably sells for 10k less right now than we paid, but it is "loaded". we looked at others of the same year, make, model--some just have had those extra loving touches added--and you'll find yours.
wee3-gin, clyde & the bichon frise 2003 Minnie Winnie 30V - "The Frosty Hauler"
May the Angels guide your wheels and ride on your shoulder.
Frosty' Mom I think you are right on in your thinking. We guys can get so hung up over bragging about our purchase price when 5-10 years down the road the $5K-$10K we did not beat down the price is a mute point. Key is to get one that fits your needs and budget and enjoy it. When the dealing is done then the purchase price should be forgotten.
I try to tell the kids your head and butt need to be in the same room at all times. Often we go through life and the mind is worrying about something in the past that we can not change or in the future worrying about things that will never happen.
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