Bagger97
Littleton, Co
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Joined: 03/11/2005
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Since you removed the CRV light assembly to drill the new bulb hole did you make sure you didn't pinch the CRV harness when replacing the light assembly?
Alan & Patty
Munchkin & Maddison
2006 Itasca Sunova 29R SE
We'd rather motorize our winterhome than winterize our motorhome.
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b ubblerboy64
946 Ashton Shippensburg Pa 17257
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Joined: 10/18/2004
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Having just wired a Honda Fit your problem might be the motor home and not the 'toad'. I can't seem to follow what the problem is here because when you add the extra bulbs into your lens assembles you should not have made any changes in the wiring of the original bulbs. So unless you damaged something I can't see why your CRV's lights aren't working. I had a problem getting the NEW bulbs working and discovered that I needed a tailer wiring converter (diodes) to get my wiring from the motor home to work the turn signals and brake lights correctly. Not certain this is what is wrong in your case but keep this in the back of your mind when you get to wiring the toad to the MH. When you add the bulbs you are in fact wiring the toad as if it was a trailer. My motor home is an older one and it is wired differently then the newer stuff. If the motor home is not the problem then you must have damaged the wiring some way when you removed the lens assembles. And of course you know that you will not have any juice to the NEW bulbs until you hook up to the motor home. I still am confused as to what the problem is here. Perhaps others are as well.
* This post was
edited 07/21/08 01:34pm by b ubblerboy64 *
John Heckman
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malonetravels2
USA
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Joined: 07/19/2008
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Thanks!
Current status:
1. add on lights still unconnected to power source
2. two screws into Honda CRV body to ground white pigtails right and the white supply ground and left pigtail.
3. Nothing is hooked into the Honda electrical unless one includes the ground screws added.
4. Honda lights all work now after adding new bulbs.
5. Since they have not blown, MUST have somehow shorted them out while installing add on lights.
6.Where can I see instructions on how to install diodes?
7. Where should I purchase diodes?
Thanks so much!
2001 F 250 Lariat Super Duty Ext Cab Diesel V8 4x4 Off Road and Camper packages, AutoZone HD off road shocks, Timbrens; 1996 Roamer RV Fiberglass Camper; 1998 Honda CRV dingy
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LK23
Colorado
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Joined: 05/14/2004
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No, No, No. You do not need diodes. Your installation of a separate bulb kit is all you need. The only suggestion I would have is to run the white ground wire from your wiring harness at the front of the CRV directly to the bulbs and don't ground anything to the CRV. This avoids any problems down the road with loose ground connections.
Itasca Horizon 40AD
Honda CRV toad
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malonetravels2
USA
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Thanks, LK23
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garry1p
Broken Arrow, OK, USA
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Joined: 08/12/2004
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The bulbs you installed will not work unless the 4 way connector between the RV and Honda is connected.
For the set up you installed the RV will supply the power to the lights independent of the Honda and no diodes will be required.
Garry1p
1990 Holiday Rambler Aluma Lite XL
454 on P-30 Chassis
1999 Jeep Cherokee sport
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b ubblerboy64
946 Ashton Shippensburg Pa 17257
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Joined: 10/18/2004
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I would not worry about "blowing" the bulbs. You must have shorted something but obviously have corrected that. You certainly must realize that the added lights will not function until you plug into the motor home? The diodes or trailer light converter is available at any RV dealer and is only needed if you have an old style wiring in your motor home. Most likely this is not required. I think you likely have it done correctly now. Plug it into the motor home and see if you have the lights functioning. And again these added lights will NOT work with the car lights they function only with the motor home lights and unless plugged into the back of the bus nothing will happen. I agree that the grounding to the CRV is not needed but it also shouldn't hurt anything. If you plug into the motor home and you do not have the functions that you need I suggest the problem is the motor home. I checked my wiring by plugging the four way connect into my new Tahoe and everything worked. That was a BIG clue that the problem was in the motor home wiring. If after plugging into the MH you are still not where you need to be find some one with a new pickup or SUV and plug your lead into their truck to test. This is really pretty simple. Check to see that all your contacts and connections are well made and clean and you really should be OK.
* This post was
edited 07/23/08 07:00am by b ubblerboy64 *
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malonetravels2
USA
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You certainly must realize that the added lights will not function until you plug into the motor home?
Yup, thanks!
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cybrfalcon
Monroe, Oh
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Joined: 09/02/2003
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Agree with others that diodes and grounding to the Honda body are not needed. Run all wires to the motorhome, even the ground wire.
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malonetravels2
USA
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Thanks bubblr and cyber
Today is the moment of truth, we finish wiring the Blue Ox coiled umbilical harness to the Ford OEM camper package wiring. In the past techs had real trouble wiring from that plug at the rear of the pickup bed to our Roamer RV truck camper, 7 to 6 wire or some such. Cost lots of dough at two RV places.
At our request they used a converter that allowed wiring of the truck camper and which included a place to plug in a four wire. Today we finish the installation of the the Blue ox coiled umbilical harness to include the four wire for the add on lights and the two wire for the US Gear UTB brake. Have heard the coiled can cause trouble for the UTB if the receptacles get dirty. Yikes!
Had heck of time last two days wiring into the brake light cold wire with the UTB overide white and grey wires that make the Honda lights not work when UTB is engaged. So hard to get upside down, had loose wire connections that kicked in the Honda safety stuff so that it was locked in park and we had to insert the key into the top of the steering column to release it. Do not like that feature, though understand it will make the drive stop and figure out have a problem.
The brake light switch must have loose connection now from my pulling on it to get the other connections made because we parked on an incline yesterday and the safety lock came one again. Got under there and jiggled the wires where they go on the switch, all by feel because cannot see the buggers, and that did the trick. With hindsight would have just got one of those add on RV to Toad charging hook ups.
May be another week before we finish, will install Timbren rubber springs on rear while the camper is jacked up and solar panel battery charger/ Solar Batteryminder controller with temp sensor switch to connect to the camper battery and the extra battery only accessible when the camper is jacked up. Also waiting for a blocking diode from US Gear for the UTB-1000 tow brake, since local RV did not have one in stock.
Oh yeah, and have to get a receiver extension. Have read some great posts on this forum about that process.
Thanks to all!
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