JerryofWV wrote: I think this is the brake Dave is talking about.
I have been looking at it for my Tracker but have not talked to anyone who uses it.
The price is the main reason I am considering it.
That's the brake only. They also incorporate it directly into a tow bar. Do a search----there's a lot of happy users out there. As I said before, I wish I had one instead of th US Gear system. The US Gear system is good when the electronics are all working. I've gone through 2 control boxes and (on this trip) have had to clean some electrical connections to get it working again.
There's no electrical stuff with the Ready Brake system.
Mark
2000 Itasca Suncruiser 35U on a Ford chassis
2003 Ford Explorer toad with US Gear brakes,
ReadyBrute tow bar, and Demco base plate.
wa8yxm wrote: And if you don't want the M&G then the US Gear, Unified Brake Decelerator
In fact there is some debate as to if the US-Gear system is not even preferable to the M&G for all of 'em..
However I still like the M&G if you have air brakes.. Simpler
Well, I use the RoadMaster BrakeMaster in our vehicles. Very easy to set up and it's totally proportional. I installed it in both our vehicles (when we used to tow the Ody four down). Works well and I've never had a minutes trouble with any of it.
Deen - Vancouver, WA
'02 Dutch Star 4090 (41+', triple slide)
435/1200 ISC Cummins/Banks PowerPak
'08 Honda Civic/dolly
'05 Honda Odyssey/dolly
NRA Benefactor Life Member
FMCA f47302s, Life Member: Good Sam, Newmar DP Owners Group
51st yr of RV'ing
Some systems are easy to install, others are more difficult or more elaborate. Some are permanent install, some are a box with a brake-pusher that you set in front of the seat, install it yourself every time you use it.
Some interact with the motorhome, some are independent, reacting to accelerations felt inside the towed vehicle (or signal from a breakaway switch).
Some are progressive, use towed vehicle brakes to slow the towed vehicle during most driving; others provide a single level of braking, meant to handle towed vehicle braking for hard deceleration only.
If you have airbrakes, there are systems that are progressive, full time, taking a signal from airbrake pressures. These are not usually a self install.
There are other progressive systems combining pressure signal from control boxes in the motorhome with signals from a deceleration sensor. There are progressive systems that operate based only on deceleration rates in the towed vehicle. There are progressive systems that are entirely mechanical, effectively surge brakes; Ready Brake is one example, other manufacturers have offered similar systems.
All combinations are possible: progressive vs single setting, permanent vs box on the floor, independent vs signal from the motorhome.
It is the large number of choices that makes a choice confusing.
I like mechanical surge brakes, like the Ready Brake, on the KISS principle. But installation of this, and other "permanent" systems, is not as simple as a box on the floor. Brake Buddy, and its similar "independent, non-progressive box on the floor" competitors are the simplest solution. They take care of the basic problem: extra weight of the towed vehicle can overwhelm the motorhome brakes under panic stop conditions. The manufacturers of these still recommend professional first installation, because it is easy to set them up wrong; thats assuming a professional installer knows what he is doing.
I have talked to so many people that have had problems with Brake Buddys. Either false lockups, to dragging the brakes and burning up the toad brakes to not initializing. For the same price as a Brake Buddy, I bought a Ready Brute tow bar with built in surge brakes and it works great. I have towed tens of thousands of miles and it works flawlessly. Simple and easy to inspect. You can get the aluminum and stainless steel, self locking tow bar tow bar with brakes for what a Brake Buddy costs. They work with everyones baseplates. Hookup is a snap. Initial installation can be tricky but so far, so good.
If you have airbrakes, there are systems that are progressive, full time, taking a signal from airbrake pressures. These are not usually a self install.
The M&G is a fairly easy install. Figure 4 hours the first time if you're handy with tools. JMO
Mike & Peg
Aint' life grand!!
'05 Discovery 39S
'04 Grand Cherokee Freedom, M&G, Roadmaster Sterling
http://discovery-on-the-road.blogspot.com/
Zeus the Wonder Dog
"makes you wonder doesn't he"
Thanks for all the answers: I looked at all the options and suggestions from you all and after researching the different units on the internet I have settled on the M&G system. Looks as if will not be too difficulit to install. I really like the ideal of not having to conect a device to my Toad Brakes every time I hook up.
Jess....just replied to your post re: tire monitoring systems.
We just came back from the FMCA Rally, and the tire monitoring system was #1 on our list, and our 2nd item on the list was the braking system.
Although we knoew which tire monitoring system we wanted (Pressure Pro), we were unsure of the break system. We asked alot of questions and my husband went to a seminar on it. He's narrowed down to 2...either SMI Air-Force ONe system, or the M&G, which he had not heard about before either.
He watched the SMI Air Force One being installed on a Saturn Vue next to us, and he was very impressed with it. However we live on LI, and installation is not easily redible here.
No one was there for the M&G product, so he really couldn't talk to anyone about it.
So we will monitor this post to see what comes up.
Sue
We had the SMI Air Force One installed on our GC and are very happy with it. The SMI does not void warranty since you are basically adding another "secondary" (in our case third) air tank to the coach. This has a very heavy duty one-way valve connected that protects the coach air system when disconnected manually or in the event of breakaway. The only thing we see behind the coach is a air connection port under the rear bumper.
There is another port on the GC and we run the air line between through the coiled light cable, along with the thin breakaway cable that comes with the kit.
The SMI Air Force One controller was mounted sideways on two brackets in a small area in the engine compartment driver's side. The system creates a vacuum on the GC as needed, not periodically as some do. The controller also has within an auxillary tank for holding air in case of breakaway when triggered by the breakaway cable. A connection to the battery for power is all that is required.
A small piston, never seen unless bending down under the dash, controls proportional pressure to the brake pedal. Only 10 lbs is required, unlike other systems that deliver full pressure.
A light that is mounted under the front grill of the GC comes on during braking so you can monitor this in the rear camera.
It's a great set-up and one that I believe is a cut above others. It is not cheap at $900 and requires about a four hour install. I had a shop do it in Europe (Manchester, UK) that had never seen the thing before and they had no problem since all pieces were present in the kit and directions were detailed with pictures.
What I like is that we have one coiled light line with the air line and breakaway cable inside of it. Unconnect and you have one single line to stow for brake lights, breakaway cable and air line.
Dian, Robert & Precious - Presently RV'ing in Europe!
2000 45' Featherlite Vogue 5000, tag, slide, Detroit Series 60
2006 19' Towcorp enclosed trailer w/60" tongue
2004 13' Ultima GTR (9.9 seconds standing quarter mile)
M&G does not fit all toads. We have a 06 Grand Vitara and it was a no-go according to the booth people at FMCA in Bend last year.
Installed the US Gear and on a later trip used it twice in panic stops. Works as advertised. It's by far the best IMO.
In fact, US gear is the reason DW and I are still above ground.
Underwear was pretty nasty though, particulary for me as I was the big eyed co-pilot.
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