Any one that has done any kind of plumbing before, and has used Teflon Tape, knows that once you thread a fitting to what ever, the actual thread cuts right though the Teflon Tape, and makes the contact to metal to metal, Copper to Copper, PVC to PVC, it doesn't matter what material. The part of the Teflon Tape that remains intact, helps to seal the lower areas of the threaded pipe fittings. Every time you remove an Anode Rod, take a look at the thread, and you will see for yourselfs, that there is no Teflon Tape on the high point ridges of the threaded area. Espically with metal to metal. You might have just gotten a bad threaded Anode Rod. Or you might need to re-thread your Hot Water Tank. I'm with "Get'n R Kicks" on this one. I sure wouldn't want Kel116 doing any plumbing for me, or pipe fittings work either. I don't mean you any disrespect Kel116, but you put your own foot in it this time. I have also been doing all sorts of plumbing and pipe work for many many years, even some very Hight Tech Plumbing. I also have well over 40+ years of doing all of my own RV Repairs. I don't hire anyone, to do anything. Good Luck. Happy Camping. Dan & Jill
1997 Ford F-250, H.D. Extended-Cab, Short Bed, 7.3 PSD, K&N Air Filter, 5000 lbs air bags w/on board compressor w/guage, SuperChips Tuner/Programer. 1996 Nash 24fter 5er, 15K "Lil" Rocker Hitch w/BedSaver, Twin EU2000i Gen's W/Kit. Nam-Vet, 33 Months.
Well, not trying to stir the pot here, but as I understand the use of anodes (the same idea as the ones used on boats) is to provide a metal that corrodes more readily (the anode) than the metal that it is trying to protect (the water heater, boat outdrive, etc.). This corrosion comes from a galvanic reaction between two disimilar metals in the presence of an electrical current of any kind, even very mild. It has nothing to do with removing impurities from the water in the tank. It just slowly disolves over time (sacrificed) instead of the water heater.
"Pipe Joint Compound" works for me...a few swabs on the threads...easy to remove a year later.
Tim & Sue
Gerry (GSD) & Jammer (Sheltie)
2005 F150 4x4 Lariat 5.4L 3.73 Please buy a Hybrid...I need your gas for my 37 gallon tank!
2000 Nash 19B...comfortably pimped with a real Queen Size Bed Red Wine anyone?
Any one that has done any kind of plumbing before, and has used Teflon Tape, knows that once you thread a fitting to what ever, the actual thread cuts right though the Teflon Tape, and makes the contact to metal to metal, Copper to Copper, PVC to PVC, it doesn't matter what material. The part of the Teflon Tape that remains intact, helps to seal the lower areas of the threaded pipe fittings. Every time you remove an Anode Rod, take a look at the thread, and you will see for yourselfs, that there is no Teflon Tape on the high point ridges of the threaded area. Espically with metal to metal
This statement is incorrect the main purpose of thread tape is to provide lubrication to the tapered threads
. “The use of PTFE tape in tapered pipe threads performs a lubricating function, which more easily allows the threads to be screwed together, to the point of deformation, which is what creates the majority, if not all, of the seal.”
Wikipedia.
I am sorry that you (as well as others) have been misinformed for forty years (lots of repairs I bet) Doing something wrong allot doesn't make it right.
Please click the link I provided above and learn something about the subject matter before you pontificate on what you have been doing wrong for decades.
The fact remains in regards to anodes, there must be a contact point between your hot water tank and a more readily-corrodible metal this will allow electrolysis to occur (basically corroding you anode not your tank) I assure you that my quality of work and craftsmanship is of an approved standard within Canada and the US. (Is yours?)
As has been stated before I don't know **** but I do know pipefitting, unlike some people here.
I apologize to the OP I am only trying to help correctly inform you so you can resolve your issue, I will not correct anymore misinformation on this subject if you have any questions feel free to PM me.
Are you sure it was the anode leaking? I had a friend who once thought his anode was leaking, but it turned out to be the pressure relief valve that was weeping, running down the wall and appeared to be the anode rod leaking.
Chris Person
aka 'Fossil Doc'
2008 Pleasure-Way TS2
I had this same issue with a previous trailer. What I noticed was that the threads on the fitting in the tank were corroded with what appeared to hard water deposits. These deposits didn't allow the anode rod to be fully threaded into place. I found a tap, screwed it in and cleaned out the deposits. Put a couple wraps of teflon tape on the anode rod, threaded in, problem solved.
Bill
Bill & Cheryl
Gypsy cat Bidding farewell to our old 1997 Dodge Ram 2500 V10. You served us well for 7 years. You will be missed. And introducing our new to us 2007 GMC 2500 D/A ext. cab long bed 4x4.
2005 Holiday Rambler Savoy 29RKS, Honda EU2000I Generator.
Well, Like I said, once the water heater heated up. It stopped leaking. We've now returned home, the water heater is cold again and still no leaks. The leak was coming from between the teflon tape and the threads on the new anode rod. Next time I am ready to inspect (next summer), I'll try the CLR clean out of the threads.
Thanks everyone for your thoughts. Happy Camping! - Eric -
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1999 Ford F-250 CC 7.3 PSD W/Superchips in tow safe mode
2006 Cougar 295EFS
Reese 16K Sliding 5th
2 Kipor 2000P generators
Magellan Explorist 210
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