I can't see how the independent rear has anything to do with it. I tow my 28' Frontier easily with my Expedition EL. No instability at all when set up correctly.
Since you only have a friction sway control, I'd also check in to the Reese Dual Cam hitch or the Equal-i-zer since you had issues towing the previous trailer too.
Tires definitely won't hurt (except the ride) ... the Pirelli's that came stock on my EL are 6 ply, but not LT tires. Just for grins, air up the current tires to max sidewall rated pressure for a test tow before deciding to replace them.
The Tow package upgrades transmission cooler and the radiator, which dissipates the heat generated from towing a bigger trailer.
I would go with an adjustable Rancho shock before air shocks. Bilsteins and KYB's work good too, though KYB's can be a little harsh.
Air shocks and coil-overs are designed to lift, like a helper spring, but your shock mounts were not designed to support weight. Shocks are for damping axle movement, not lifting the vehicle.
I would look to the soft tires as one likely cause of the problem.
From the Ford towing guide for the Expedition, HD tow package option 536 includes:
7-wire harness and 4&7 pin connectors
Hitch reciever
Aux auto trans oil cooler, 11 channel
Radiator upgrade
HD flashers
Electronic brake wiring kit
You have a good trailer TV combination and adequit towing gear for that combination. You can always throw money at the problem (tires, air bags, shocks, hensley), throw enough at it and it will mask the problem, but not FIX it. Your problem is not the tow vehicle, or your gear, but how it is set up. That really should be where you focus your energy. There is no reason for your rig to be a white knuckle experience.
Our pioneer with full water ready to camp is around 5200lbs, which is heavier than your Roo. We have no issues towing, the Expy is very capable, even with it's independent suspension. Until this last April, I towed this same trailer and weight with a V8 explorer with no sway issues. We use a Reese straight line (WD and sway control), but with your trailer length and TV, the friction will work ok too. The issue is not your total weigh (no need to eliminate that 2nd hot dog fork!) but rather how it is loaded and distributed. You must have AT LEAST 10% weight on the tounge, or no matter your what system, you will have sway. Do you fill your water tank? Is it in front or behind the trailer axles? Pump up the trailer and TV tires to max pressure, with the weight we are talking about, you don't really have to get LT's unless you are towing all the time. Drop the ball mount so the trailer in level or a bit nose down, it should never be nose up. Make sure you set the WD properly, you don't want to unload either the front or rear of the TV, that would also cause sway.
Good luck in your endeavors!
2007 Expedition EL 4x4 Tow pkg
2006 Pioneer 180CK (No more pucampin!)
Nights in 07 : 4 (But our new kitchen, is SO nice!)
Nights in 08 : 6 (Gotta change that!)
Me DW
DD 6/14/06 DS 11/27/07
OMG!! We're WHAT?! DD 11/26/08
seems to me that many are placing the cart a little too far in front of the horse. ..
first you need to realize that sway under normal driving conditions is not normal, there is a cause that can be corrected... trailer loading, tires and tire pressure, mechanical/maintenance issues, and incorrect hitch setup are typically the main causes of sway under normal circumstances...
these anti sway devices that have been mentioned will work, but before you apply a proverbial band aid, you should try and stop the bleeding...
I use a single friction sway control as an insurance policy so to speak... for when the abnormal conditions occur, like trailer on a soft shoulder or the odd over correction...
2006 Springdale 292BHLS
2007 GMC Sierra 2500HD SLT 6.0
SSB wrote: After my our maiden voyage with our new (downsized from 27') Rockwood Roo 23ss from Ohio, West Virginia Turnpike, and final destination of Great Smokey Ntnl. Forest, I am still battling sway or squirm on the 2007 Expedition. I started checking the numbers. I thought I bought a 9000 lb rated Epedition/ hvy duty tow package. My sticker says I have the hvy. tow package.
1. Does anyone know exactly what equipment was supposed to come with this package? (specifacally suspension, tires 2ply P265/70, Ford shocks?)
2. Any suggestions on ways I could improve my towing experience with this vehicle?(Ie:Tires, shocks, suspension, hitch)
Not enough info. Best if you go out and weigh the whole setup axle by
axle, both empty and fully loaded.
You can have all the right sized components, but if it isn't setup
correctly, it won't work well and even be dangerous.
IRS is great for cars, but I'm not sold on it for TVs. Much higher
precision 'required' for any IS system and those precision pivot
points are in question for me. I'm also very sure an IRS can be
designed/engineered to tow very nicely, but I'm of the opinion that
the OEMs won't spend that kind of money to resize the whole rear
suspension (increase their cost) for the very small percentage that
actually tow heavy.
The basics of setting up any TV/Trailer/Hitch setup is to have the
trailer pointing slightly 'down' or at it's highest pointing, level.
This has to do with the trailers suspension and it's 'caster' or
steering metrics.
Also, the TV must maintain the correct stance and weighting of the
front axle to maintain it's steering control. If the fronts unweight
(no refer to longer lift, but unweight), it can lose steering or reduced
steering control. Therefore sway has more of an affect on the setup.
The hitch system must have enough forces (right sized components and
setup correctly) to do it's job. There is an ever increasing force
placed on the WD bars as the trailer moves off line (side to side)
and that *WD's* more weight off of the TV rear axle and onto the TV
front axle.
Round bar or Trunnion WD bars has slightly different metrics. I've
not towed with Trunnion bars, yet, and know round WD bars best. They
must be level at their highest pointing after the final adjustment.
This is to give them enough travel when the hitch system moves
up and down going down the road. If they are pointed too high, then
they will unload and not have enough loading at certain conditions.
Ditto when they are pointed down too much.
Others have covered most of what a 'tow package' consists of, but there
are other things going on too. Also notice that the majority of the
component changes has to do with heat rejection. Meaning that the
various components/systems are stressed at a higher level. So they
will generate more heat that needs to be rejected in order to maintain
longevity for warranty work.
Move up in tire class is always something I recommend, but it needs
to be a complete re-engineering job. Also, if ride quality more
important than handling, safety margin, etc, then stick with the lower
class "P" rated tires. 'Ride quality' is at the bottom of my 'nice
to have list' and not at all on my 'have to have list' for any of
my TRUCKs.
That 9,000lb MTWR is based or derived from a 'curb' vehicle, which is
the stripper model. So if your truck has AC, upgraded interior, etc,
it weighs more than the 'curb', therefore the MTWR is pound for
pound less by the amount of all those options weigh. Plus the MWR
is further reduced by the cargo (people, pets, luggage, ice chest, etc)
as they used a stripper model with only one 150lb driver as the
basis to derive the MTWR (your 9,000lb max tow weight rating).
Finally, too many only concern or look at the 'ratings' as weight.
There are other attributes to that 'rating'. Like braking to a stop
within a specified distance, repeatedly over a specified time period
and at the max ambient (worse) conditions. Weight is involved, but not
just carry, but performance as in stopping within spec.
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...
Just remember that when you lighten the load of the trailer to also make sure you have more weight in front on the axles than the rear. Too much rear weight will cause even more problems.
Steve & Linda
Son married (1 DIL, 3 granddaughters 1 grandson)
Daughter in College
Miami CO. Kansas
2004 F350 CC dually 8ft bed 6.0 PSD
2009 Bighorn 3670RL
B&W under bed hitch with 18k companion hitch
Offline
: 4 (But our new kitchen, is SO nice!)
