I grew up wrenching on muscle and ponycars, so it's hard for me to not tinker, but you have to do the research, be intelligent about your mods, and be prepared for things to break if you go too far.
I waited until my warranty was up to get my computer downloader, if not, you're your own warranty station, and if your engine grenades even if it has nothing to do with the mods, chances are it's still going to be on your dime.
I started with gauges...EGT, fuel pressure, and boost.
On my truck it was real easy for the EGT temps to go over 1300 degrees while towing, so next went in an air filter box and free-flowing exhaust.
Again...you have to do the research...a lot of the airboxes on the market don't flow or filter any better than stock, so not worth squat.
Then I got a Smarty computer downloader.
I wanted a bit more power towing through the mountains, but am fully aware that the weak link on my truck is the stock clutch, so when it goes, putting in a Southbend unit.
I don't use the higher power numbers on the downloader, but am fully prepared to replace the clutch if needed, I knew what I was getting into.
When my stock fuel pump let go a thousand miles ago, I put in an AirDog filter set-up...better filtration than stock, more reliable and not much more money than stock.
Growing up a gearhead, I like to tinker, so my mods are more than worth it to me, but again, do the research and keep in mind that a chain is only as good as its weakest link, the truck came from the factory as a unit, and if you start adding a bunch of power, research your particular truck, find the weak links and how much it will cost to replace them, and make an informed decision, that way you'll be prepared if and when things start breaking.
BTW...you'd have to put out a LOT more power to start affecting the headbolts, rods crank etc. but Dsteiner is right on the money with the trans and u-bolts, usually with an auto trans, it'll be the first thing affected aka slipping.
Good luck!
2007 Teton Experience Sunrise pulled by 2003 Dodge 3500 Cummins HO 6-spd. 4x4
'61 VW Double-Cab
Most mods are a crapshoot for payback. Most mods require subgstantial modifications to support them. The above costs money. If you are looking for better towing a small HP increase is OK from a towing standpoint. 60 hp will let you go up the hill without downshifting but if your exaust gas temps get too high you can melt a piston or do other damage therefiore you also need at least gauges. Too much HP and hard accelleration and you can break your tranny any one of many ways. If you can keep your foot out of it and can keep mods small than it might give you a payback over 4-5 years. Not meaning to be sarcastic, just trying to be real. If you have an older truck with limited hp/torque than it might pay to upgrade, but most of the newer trucks don't gain a lot without spending a lot to get there.
Just my humble opinion
2003 Cedar Creek 30RLBS
2007 Dodge 5.9 Cummins Turbo Diesel 325hp/610Tq
4x4 3.73 axles short bed
Inferno Red W/Gold pinstripping
Well, I don't know nuttin' from nuttin' about diesels, but I'm about to learn, tho at my age the learning curve is pretty short. I just got old ('01) young (33K miles) 7.3L Excursion. My first Ford and my first diesel. Tried to do an intelligent research but there is WAY too much info out there and everyone has a different idea about what to add on. My little brain has a hard time assimilating all this info. My pre-purchase inspection by an independent diesel "expert" told me the rig was in GREAT shape.
Anyway, it is completely stock. I'm having it chipped...one of those kits that include all the gauges....as I fell victim to a local performance shop sales pitch. Also adding an air intake. Should point out that I will use this rig pretty much exclusively to tow my 7500# TT, Equal-i-zer hitch, etc. I dumped a '99 454 K2500 Jimmy that got 6-8 mpg towing.....it was beginning to fall apart w/150K miles.
Next decision is how to beef up the rear suspension. Again, there are as many ideas out there as there are people. Anyway, I'm a social security driven septuagenarian and this promises to be one of my last great adventures. Ain't it fun!!!
Oh, forgot to add that I bought this way out of town. The 300 mile trip home was a good sign. I filled up at origin and still had 3/4 tank (according to gauge) after the 300 miles...and I negotiated the 9500' pass near home like it wasn't even there...no downshifting or nuttin'. I'm impressed.
Feel free to diminish my ignorance at any time.
Great wife, 3.1 dogs and no money..LIFE IS GOOD
As of 7/14/08.....'01 Excursion Ltd 7.3L PSD (Juice w/Attitude, s&b intake, 4" turbo back exhaust..the SES light is always on) easily pulling a '06 Prowler 260RLS, Equal-i-zer, Prodigy
Highfire you have an LBZ, one of the best designed diesel engins on the market. It went through 2 upgrades before yours. GM learned a lot from the LB7 to the LBZ.
If you had a 6.5 or LB7 I would say to put on an intake and exhaust system. You don't, so I won't. I picked up about .5 to 1 MPG on my 6.5 after an intake and exhaust system. I payed it back on one vacation trip.
The LBZ has a VERY good intake system and a good exhaust system. With an intake system I would say you would not pick up anything. You may pick up a just a touch on the exhaust system but payback would be a very long time in coming if ever, before the rest of the truck is junk.
About boxes. They adjust timing, lock the converter up a little sooner, add a few more pounds of boost and do other small things.
The big ticket item with a diesel is fuel. And these boxes add that. A bunch of that!!!! There is no stoichiometric ratio like a gasoline engine. That is why a diesel box can make so much power. They just add fuel.
How much fuel does a box add? As much as you have the box set to. In other words, if you have the box set on 50hp, it adds just that; 50 hp of fuel. If you have it set on 100hp, it will add 100hp of fuel.
This is why the LB7 will get better milesge than the LLY and the LLY will get better mileage than the LBZ.
What this all means is IMHO you will never pay back a box because it will flow more fuel. If you flow more fuel, you will buy more fuel.
Not to mention the fact at GM will now know you have a higher fuel flow rate on your engine. This will tell them only one thing; you had a box on your engine and they will not like you when something small goes wrong with your engine. If they REALLY want to, they will find out you had a box on your LBZ.
~ Too many freaks & not enough circuses ~
"Life is not tried ~ it is merely survived ~ if you're standing
outside the fire"
Mpg - Your current average New Mpg - Your MPG after the upgrade Incr - the % of increase you obtain $/gal - the current cost of 1 gallon of diesel Sav/g - How much $ per gallon you save by increase in fuel efficiency Gals - The number of gallons you must buy to save the cost of your invesment Miles to Drive - The number of miles you must drive to fully recoup you investment
We got a superchip for free in exchange for a dodge with blown engine. It certainly runs faster, but seriously my dear we do not care how if runs faste we want it to last! The power is great, but , if DSteiner51 is right, then we will just tune back to stock.
We are have a too heavy truck camper for our F250 and now, in addition, we are going to be towing a Honda CRV with about 200 lbs of bikes and inflatable kayaks in it.
2001 F 250 Lariat Super Duty Ext Cab Diesel V8 4x4 Off Road and Camper packages, AutoZone HD off road shocks, Timbrens; 1996 Roamer RV Fiberglass Camper; 1998 Honda CRV dingy
DSteiner51 wrote: Add your performance mods and make sure you get at least a minimum of 10% increase. Preferably at least 20%. Stretch headbolts, increase stress on connecting rods, crankshaft, torque converter, transmission, drive shaft/ujoints, and rear axle. When things break curse the manufacturer who didn't know what they were doing and now refuse warranty. Get on RV.net and condemn those who overload weight wise 1% to max of approx 5% GVWR and state how warranty will be voided (you deserve it), how the vehicle will fall apart pronto and how extremely dangerous you are. You will immediately be qualified for "expert" status on RV.net. Go for it!
you've got issues................dont you!
hahaha - it sure does sound like he does, doesn't it.
I got my programmer from streetsideauto.com, so far I'm seeing just under 4mpg increase and much better driveability. With this kind of increase it should pay for itself in way less than a year.
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