myboys
California
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Joined: 11/27/2007
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I have a 16K Reese slider, unfortunatly I have also had this experience. In my case, I had backed under and the jaws had closed, but I didn't latch the safety latch. when I did my pull test the pin pulled out of the jaws, the trailer dropped abd slid into the closed tailgate! The $3K expereince to repair the rails, removing Linex, and replacing the tail gate has taught me to follow my routine and take it very slow.....I never realized how critical the safety latch was, lesson learned.
2003 Duramax with attitude chip, 2008 Wildcat 29RKBS, 10x6 utility.
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Hamops
Oshawa, ON, CA
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Joined: 01/26/2003
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Get a BedSaver. Take it from me, you only need to see it catch your trailer once, to see the value of it. You may never use it but it's there as a little added insurance.
Helen & George VE3INB and Max (Bichon Frise)
06 Silverado LT 2500HD D/A
2006 Crossroads Cruiser CF30SK
Prodigy Brake Controller
16K Reese Slider with a Bedsaver
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chrizg
IA
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Joined: 03/20/2008
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NavyDood wrote:Isn't there a pin to lock the hitch handle that can only be pinned if the pin box and hitch are fully coupled?
Thats only on a B&W (that I know of). The B&W is either closed or open (Which is very nice)
The other hitches stay closed all the time but will let the trailer connect when backing in. The only time its supposed to open is if the pin is pulled to release it.
09 Big Country 2950RK
06 Dodge 3500 CTD 4X2 Mega Cab DRW B&W
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emtee
West Virginia
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Joined: 05/24/2007
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WD-40 is not a solvent. It is primarily a surfactant; a water displacer. The surfactant ingredient is made in a plant close to where we live. WD-40 also contains a light lubricant, but it is a small amount and not generally suited as a dedicated slick lubricant. Most of it's lubricating qualities are gone after the carrier flashes off, but residue does remain. It also contains a rust inhibitor. It really is not suited for hitch lubrication, unless you want to coat it against rust (a task that must be repeated frequently).
Every hitch manual will have recommended lube types for their brand. I usually follow the manufacturer's directive.
Oh, and I do a pull test every time. I want to be the one who screws up the "Two types of 5er owners" rule! 
Mark and Lucy T.
2004 Chevy 2500HD Gasser
2008 Jayco Eagle 27.5 Super Lite
Superglide on Homemade Removable Rails
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sdagro
Independence,LA
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Joined: 01/21/2006
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I've been an RVer for 2 1/2 yrs. I always do a pull test. I just leave my large wheel chocks down until I perform the test. I have had several weird looks as to "what is this guy doing" OR "you forgot the chocks" yelled at me. I then tell them what I'm doing and get a really dumb look. I have a B&W with the 5ver companion. It may fail me tomorrow but it seems virtually impossible to pull away with it unlatched. JMOA.
Steve A. Dagro
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restlesswind
Fulltime
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Joined: 10/13/2007
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We do a test pull every time we move the 5vr. DW and I work as a team,this is one of the things she will not let me forget "no test pull,no move"
Sorry to hear about your mishap
Ed
Hichhiker DA
04.5 Dodge TD SRW
Fulltimers
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jasonlisan
Colorado
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Joined: 07/20/2005
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I do three things everytime I hook up, 1: I make sure the jaws look closed. 2: I close the safety latch and put a pin through it to secure it. 3: I do the pull test with the wheel chocks still in place like sdagro does.
Now I'm not perfect but this is the one area I religiously check. Don't ask me about those temperature gauges that stick to your rv windows, lets just say they don't hold so well going 60mph down the highway. I'm on my third one now.
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davelinde
Freehold, New Jersey
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Joined: 11/02/2003
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I also depend on the visual inspection and pull test for this.
Unfortunately the second time I unhitched my new FW I got pre-occupied trying to figure out how to properly chock my triple axle and then just drove off... without lowering my tailgate. I thought I'd dropped the FW - but I just pulled a pin shaped notch in my tailgate 
Dave Lindemulder
Tammy, Mark & Kirsten
04 Dodge 2500 4x4 SLT QC/SB
HO-CTD/48RE - Graphite: Raptor SS nerfs, Prodigy, Reese 16K Kwik-slide, BD X-Monitor, PML Trans pan, PML Diff cover, Firestone Airbags
09 Heartland Cyclone 3210
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Delaine and Lindy
Linden Tn. (The View)
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Joined: 02/20/2005
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Sorry about your damage. Well we have owned 4 different 5th wheel hitches. We now own a B&W turnover ball, with the Companion 5th wheel hitch. Its the safest hitch I have ever seen. When hooking up, if the safety pin is in, the hitch will not release. And it secures life the commerical 5th wheel hitches you see on Class 8 Trucks it wraps around the king pin from both sides. I also do a pull test before removing the Roto Chocks. And when we park and leave the Truck and 5er for any length of time, I then do what I call a bump and pull test, to make sure some idot hasn't pull the safety pin. It did happen to me when I was a rookie Truck driver, I pulled out from under a 48' flat bed trailer. Never happen again, I always check now. Good Luck with your repairs. GBY....
2008 Chevy Silverado LTZ 3500, DRW
2008 Chevy Equinox LTZ
2009 Mobile Suites 36TK 3
B&W Hitch
www.webspawner.com/users/lnhdch
We are Blessed !!!!!!
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Penhall
Whitehorse, Yukon
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Joined: 01/18/2007
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chrizg wrote:NavyDood wrote:Isn't there a pin to lock the hitch handle that can only be pinned if the pin box and hitch are fully coupled?
Thats only on a B&W (that I know of). The B&W is either closed or open (Which is very nice)
The other hitches stay closed all the time but will let the trailer connect when backing in. The only time its supposed to open is if the pin is pulled to release it.
Surprised me when he said he had a Hijacker hitch - the pin won't go in until the bar is right across and hitched.
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