NavyDood wrote: Isn't there a pin to lock the hitch handle that can only be pinned if the pin box and hitch are fully coupled?
Thats only on a B&W (that I know of). The B&W is either closed or open (Which is very nice)
The other hitches stay closed all the time but will let the trailer connect when backing in. The only time its supposed to open is if the pin is pulled to release it.
Surprised me when he said he had a Hijacker hitch - the pin won't go in until the bar is right across and hitched.
That is why I asked. I have the B&W w/Companion. If my handle is pinned, the only way the 5vr is coming unhitched is if the head assy and jaws completely fail or the pin on the pin box fails.
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- B&W Hide-A-Ball w/5th wheel Companion
Our hitch is a Valley hitch and you have to pull it open to back into it, then the latch comes around the pin and snaps into place. We then have a safety pin that goes in the pull handle to keep it secure. I thought I heard that Valley is part of B&W?
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Sorry, I'm still confused. We have a Reese 16K. When we back into the hitch jaws, the handle theoretically snaps into the closed position. We always make sure this has happened. Then, we close the safety latch, which can't be closed unless the handle is in the closed position. We then put a padlock through the safety latch to make sure it can't open and that some jokester can't open it when we're not around. I thought doing all this assured no accidental dropping of the 5th. wheel when we pull away. If one does this religiously, why should a test pull be necessary?? Thanks
Riever wrote: Sorry, I'm still confused. We have a Reese 16K. When we back into the hitch jaws, the handle theoretically snaps into the closed position. We always make sure this has happened... If one does this religiously, why should a test pull be necessary?? Thanks
I also have a Reese 16K and watch the handle open and close, then lock it. I still visually inspect and pull test. In theory I've read the pin can "high hitch" and maybe mimic the open/close/lock of a proper hitch up. I like to think I'd see that too - hence the visual inspect. However, I've never seen it... so I pull test too. The risk is too great for me to deviate and what is the harm?
As I learned in my different "oops" the big thing is getting a routine that is rock solid and NEVER deviating from it. I will fix my tailgait eventually.... but for now I see it every day and am sick from being stooopid. A cheap lesson learned. I never want to drop a FW on my rails... but I'm not quite convinced I need the expense AND WEIGHT of a BS to prevent that.
Dave Lindemulder
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My hitch has a large long bar that has to slide between the pin and the mount. If the handle doesn't go all the way in I know it has not engaged.
Some hitches have a claw type of connection. Is that the problem the claw opens up and releases the hitch?
If I can see the handle goes all the way in and the BAR is ingaged I feel secure.
I'm not sure this thread isn't encourged by the company that makes the BedSaver.
NOW when my 5er drops down on my truck bed I will change my mind to be sure. And so sorry to you who have had that happen and when I see a bed in that condidtion I tear up.
Sorry for the accident...but no one was hurt! That's a good thing. In our case, losing a fresh water tank at 60 mph was a bit upsetting too, but again, no one was hurt. Regarding unhitching/hitching, I checked with Pullrite...they do not supply a piece of metal that would be designed to "catch" your 5th wheel. So, for 10 years(averaging 15 weekends a year)we carefully listen for the handle to snap the jaw around the pin. It has latched every single time. Thinking that the top part of my hitch was getting old('99), I sent it out to Pullrite this past Spring,and they completely refurbished it with a new jaw, new springs, and a brand new paint job...at absolutely no cost to me(only the shipping charges $28). I'm glad we went with Pullrite.
Best Wishes!
JB
I have posted much earlier on this site that there are two types of 5ver owners, those who have and those who will drop their Rig on their truck... Even or Dealer did it on our new one....Bummer
We have the Reese Signature 18K and there's a safety pin that wont go in unless you have a positive lock. It's worked for us for almost 3 years now. I look sometimes, but have never done the pull test.
What ever works for you.
Fred Wishnie
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was_butnotnow wrote: . Is that the problem the claw opens up and releases the hitch?
.
Not usually. Those claws have the pivot point at the back, so when the trailer is pulling, they are actually pulling it closed, rather than trying to pull them open, as you might expect.
Rodney 2005 Laredo 29GS 2002 F250 V-10 Hughesnet Satellite Internet
JCGibson wrote: Our hitch is a Valley hitch and you have to pull it open to back into it, then the latch comes around the pin and snaps into place. We then have a safety pin that goes in the pull handle to keep it secure. I thought I heard that Valley is part of B&W?
That's what I thought with our Valley, that I had to pull it open to back into it, but that's not true (thanks to other members postings). So now, I just unlatch the handle and back into it, and it opens and snaps shut with a solid action. Sorry for the OP's misfortune.
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