Ok, I've read the manual and can't figure this oven thing out!! I hold in the knob (in the light pilot light area) and use the lighter to light the pilot light. As long as I hold in the knob, the pilot light stays lit. As soon as a let up on the knob to turn to an oven temp the pilot light goes out. I just had a new thermocoupler installed. I've sat on the floor and held in the knob and lit the pilot light and held it for a long time and tried this, I would say close to 15 times (almost 1 hr). If you hold in the button long enough, the whole tube (burner) lights up, but again as soon as I let up on the knob the light goes out. I've lit the burners on the stove and also ran the fridge on gas, so I know I've got gas in the line.
What can I possibly do to get this dumb thing to work????? Can anyone help me....Thanks....
1993 Chevy K1500 4X4 5.7L V8 141.5 inch Wheelbase & 3.73 Gear Ratio
2004 Skyline Nomad North Trail Model #2480 UVW 4385, GVWR 6500.
At first I would have said bad thermocouple, but since you state you have replaced it, I am not really sure. Could be a bad gas control valve, would be my second guess. But I admit I am no expert on gas appliances and typically leave that stuff up to the experts rather than blow myself up.
I had an issue last year with the burner not lighting. Cleaned the tube three or four times. Never did get it to light. Took it to dealer, they cleaned the tube and guess what, it worked. Tell you something about my abilities. LOL!! :-)
David,Wife,4 kids,SIL,1 grandchild
2003 Ford Excursion Eddie Bauer 7.3 PSD w/3.73 rear end
Jayco Kiwi Too 30T bunkhouse w/triple bunks
Prodigy Controller
Reese Dual Cam HP
Michelin LTX M/S
2001 F150 SuperCrew
I had found on one oven the control knob that you push to lite pilot was not going in all the way. As soon as I removed the knob and just pushed the stem in the pilot lit and worked fine. Give that a try.
it the new thermocoupler was not properly installed, it may be the cause.
Thermocoupler function:
fluid in a bulb
fire heats fluid
fluid expands
fluid travels through very thin tubing to button inside of the gas valve
fluid expansion creates pressure on button in thermocoupler connection at gas valve
as long as button maintains pressure, gas will flow to pilot light burner
if thermocoupler cools (or fails to heat) the required pressure at gas valve to keep pilot light burning is absent, causing gas valve to stop gas flow to pilot light burner.
basically, if the thermocoupler does not signal to valve pilot is lit by heating liquid inside the bulbous end of the thermocoupler, the valve will stop the gas flow, and your pilot will not stay lit.
POSSIBLE CAUSES:
bad thermocoupler
improperly installed coupler
bad switch in gas valve at thermocoupler connection
CURES:
replace thermocoupler
verify proper installation
repace valve/controller
ignore condition, light burner manually
NOTE: this last option may be prevented by the gas control valve, if pilot is not burning, burner may not receive gas flow
Just went through this with a patio heater, I had to replace the gas valve, but now have two good thermocouplers.
I have read a few times, from member dougrainier (I think this is the name) that there is a factory defect with the lnobs on these units. The cure is to place a piece of cardboard inside the shaft of the knob so you can pess the know in farther during the lighting sequence, therby opening-up the gas valve a little more.
I have seen replies from members that after doing this, the problem was cured.
Thermocoupler function:
fluid in a bulb
fire heats fluid
fluid expands
fluid travels through very thin tubing to button inside of the gas valve
fluid expansion creates pressure on button in thermocoupler connection at gas valve
as long as button maintains pressure, gas will flow to pilot light burner
if thermocoupler cools (or fails to heat) the required pressure at gas valve to keep pilot light burning is absent, causing gas valve to stop gas flow to pilot light burner.
I was always under the impression thermocouples created a milli-voltage that held open a magnet-like valve. The differential heating of two dissimilar metals creates an electrical potential, thusly creating current.
Thermocoupler function:
fluid in a bulb
fire heats fluid
fluid expands
fluid travels through very thin tubing to button inside of the gas valve
fluid expansion creates pressure on button in thermocoupler connection at gas valve
as long as button maintains pressure, gas will flow to pilot light burner
if thermocoupler cools (or fails to heat) the required pressure at gas valve to keep pilot light burning is absent, causing gas valve to stop gas flow to pilot light burner.
I was always under the impression thermocouples created a milli-voltage that held open a magnet-like valve. The differential heating of two dissimilar metals creates an electrical potential, thusly creating current.
You are correct. (I didn't want to "dis" the Vintager)
The thermocouple connection on a gas valve is electrical, NOT pressure/mechanical.
The exception would be a gas safety valve in an oven that uses mercury in the capillary tube.
This is why thermocouples have a 750mv (millivolt) rating.
Here is a cut and paste from a site that I Googled.
A discovery by T. J. Seebeck almost 150 years ago, opened the way for modern thermoelectric circuitry. In 1831, Seebeck discovered that an electric current flows in a closed circuit of two dissimilar metals when one of the two junction is heated with respect to the other.
In such a thermocouple circuit the current continues to flow as long as two junction are at different temperatures. The magnitude and direction of the current is a function of the temperature difference between the junctions and of the thermal properties of the metals used in the circuit. This phenomenon, is known as the Seebeck Affect.
The conductors can be of any two dissimilar metals, and when the hot junction is heated the current flow can be observed on a milliamp meter. If the position of the hot and cold junction is reversed, current will flow in the opposite direction.
In fact, a thermocouple circuit will actually generate a measurable, low voltage output that is almost directly proportional to the temperature difference between the hot junction and the cold junction. A unit change in this temperature difference produces some net change in the voltage.
Thanks for everyone's answers!!! I've taken off the knob and tried pushing it in manually, with no luck. However, I am going to give the cardboard a try tomorrow night. My dealership is not putting their best foot forward on this deal. I know it's not a big deal to them, but it is to me and I paid alot of money for the new thermocoupler and it still doesn't work and they just don't be seeming to getting around to looking at it again!! Just needed a little vent....thanks for listening....However, how do I light the burner manually?????
Offline
