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Open Roads Forum  >  Towing

 > Help installing new Reese hitch and Tekonsha P3

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wileecoyote

Tennessee, USA

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Posted: 09/20/08 09:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I purchased the Reese Strait-line Dual Cam Hitch rig which is rated up to 12,000 lbs. It provides weight distribution and sway control. I unpacked all the parts, read the instructions twice, and I even watched an installation video online. I am ready to install this on my truck and trailer but I am stuck on one of the first steps.

The instructions say to attach the hitch ball to the shank mechanism using 450 ft. lbs. of torque. Holy cow that is a lot of torque! I have a pretty heavy duty 1/2" drive torque wrench but it only goes up to 150 ft. lbs. so I went to the tool store today. The largest wrench they had was 3/4" drive and it topped out at 300 ft. lbs. which isn't even close. I am familiar with impact guns and sockets but I haven't seen any that go up this high either. So how on earth am I going to tighten this thing to the appropriate strength? I know I can slip a pipe over the end of the wrench or breaker bar to apply more torque but I can't measure torque that high so how do I know when enough is enough?

Several of the other bolts on this call for a lot of torque too, and I imagine that my new Puma 26RLSS trailer will have some bolts which need high torque as well. So what do all of you use?

The video shows a long torque bar but I kind of doubt it is rated up to 450 ft. lbs. since it looks smaller than my current wrench. I guess I could just play it by ear and tighten as much as a breaker bar and cheater pipe will allow but I wouldn't feel safe rolling down the road never knowing if I had tightened it enough, or too much.

If I can't figure it out then I might need to pay a local dealer to install this thing for me. Speaking of which: the local dealer had told me that the Tekonsha P3 or Prodigy brake controllers were way too much for a 2-axle 28' trailer like my Puma 26RLSS. They said this would cause "too much braking" and I would end up having problems towing with this setup down the road. They recommended the Tekonsha Primus brake controller and said it is the only model they sell since the others cause problems. This didn't jive with all the great reviews I read about the P3 and I recently found a P3 on sale so I went ahead and got one. Has anyone ever heard of situation where the P3 or a similar unit would be "too much brake controller"? Sounds odd to me...





BarneyS

S.E. Lower Michigan

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Posted: 09/21/08 06:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What you need is a torque wrench like this! It goes to 600lbs.



No more torque worries with that baby!

Seriously, take it to a truck repair shop. They will be able to torque it down for you.
Your local dealer is blowing smoke about the brake controllers. They just want to sell you what they have. Get the Prodigy or P3. They are adjustable for up to 4 or 6 brakes. No such thing as "too much" brake controller. He is just lying or is ignorant about towing.
Barney


2004 Sunnybrook 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch
2002 Ford F250 Super Duty, 7.3L PSD
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chadsalt

sc

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Posted: 09/21/08 08:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

wileecoyote wrote:


The instructions say to attach the hitch ball to the shank mechanism using 450 ft. lbs. of torque. Holy cow that is a lot of torque! I have a pretty heavy duty 1/2" drive torque wrench but it only goes up to 150 ft. lbs. so I went to the tool store today. The largest wrench they had was 3/4" drive and it topped out at 300 ft. lbs. which isn't even close. I am familiar with impact guns and sockets but I haven't seen any that go up this high either. So how on earth am I going to tighten this thing to the appropriate strength? I know I can slip a pipe over the end of the wrench or breaker bar to apply more torque but I can't measure torque that high so how do I know when enough is enough?



Divide 450# by your weight, that is how many feet out you need to stand on the bar. Make sure you have taken some sort of precautions if the bar breaks you dont crack your head/butt.

I stick the ballmount in my front reciever so its not very far off the ground, then I have a 3/4" breaker bar with a pipe I slide on the end, I step on it 2.8 feet out and I have 450#.





Steveque

Central California

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Posted: 09/21/08 02:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have installed a ball on a hitch for my little Nissan pickup. I used a heavy gauge pipe extension on my breaker bar. Once the little truck started moving sideways I figured I had enough torque.


Steve Quesenberry
Central California

wileecoyote

Tennessee, USA

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Posted: 09/21/08 04:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Good tips. I will probably take the hitch ball to a local shop and have them torque it on for me. Then I will install the hitch myself since the rest of the install looks pretty simple.

My only question now is whether or not I should go to the local dealer to have them check and adjust the hitch after I get it installed. They said something about adjustments being critical and that many people make a mistake by leveling the trailer when it is at rest on the hitch, which causes the front lip of the trailer to bounce up when it hits bumps on the road, which causes the flat bottom of the trailer to catch a lot of air and introduce problems. I figured I couldn't go wrong following the hitch manufacturer instructions but should I trust my own work if I never installed a hitch before?

And is there such a thing as having "too much hitch"? This Reese setup is rated up to 12,000 lbs. with 1,200 lbs. tongue weight but my TT is only going to be about 8,500 lbs. with 800 lbs. tongue weight when fully loaded. I assumed a bigger hitch is best since it can be used on anything in the future.

BarneyS

S.E. Lower Michigan

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Posted: 09/21/08 05:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

First of all, I think the hitch you got is probably about right for the trailer you have or are getting. From what you have said about the dealer, I certainly would not put much stock in anything they say.

Second, if your trailer indeed weighs around 8500lbs when it is loaded and ready to go camping, then your hitch weight should be, and probably will be, around 1000lb or more. You want a minimum of 10% of the trailer weight on the hitch and preferably around 12-13% up to around 15%. This is for best towing stability.

You can certainly install and adjust the hitch yourself. It is not hard but just takes a bit of time go get it right. Most dealers and their techs do not know how, or do not take the time, to do it right. If you do it yourself you KNOW it is done right and a bonus is that you get familiar with your hitch and how it works.

We have a detailed tutorial stuck at the top of this forum that will give you step by step directions, including pictures and diagrams about the HP Dual Cam install and adjustment. In addition, IF you do have any problems, you can post here and we have quite a few experts who can walk you through the process. As I said, it is not hard but takes some time - but the results are well worth the effort.

The tutorial on the hitch install and adjustment can be found here. It might be a good idea to print it out and take it with you when you go to install and adjust your hitch.
Good luck and keep posting if you need help.
Barney

wileecoyote

Tennessee, USA

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Posted: 09/21/08 09:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Great info, and thanks! I should have the new TT home and in the parking area tomorrow afternoon, then I will begin the hitch install right away and hope for the best.

dodge guy

Chicago, western subs.

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Posted: 09/22/08 08:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would also add that you find a new dealer. one that doesn`t blow smoke when you ask them questions!


Wife kim
Son brandon 7yrs
Daughter marissa 6yrs
Dog shadow

07 Cherokee 32B
02 Excursion 4X4 V-10 4.30 gear
Reese HP dualcam,Prodigy brake controller,
Air lift air bags.

Better to have a bad day of
camping than a good day at work!


martipr

Haltom City, Texas

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Posted: 10/04/08 06:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You are not through with the torque problem yet. If you read the instructions the two bolts that attach the hitch head to the shank are to be torqued to 300 foot pounds. Won't work with a 150 ftlb torque wrench. I am saddled with the same problem, I am redoing a botched install by Camping World and mine only goes to 100 ftlbs.


Old Navy Chief (AOC) Retired Aircraft Mechanic/Inspector
2007 29' 27FBV Trail Bay V Series
2007 Dodge Ram 1500 Mega Cab 5.7 V8
Reese Strait-Line Dual Cam Hitch


mkirsch

Rochester, NY

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Posted: 10/04/08 07:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Torque is torque. The same trick you use to get 450ft-lbs will work to get 300ft-lbs. Just use a shorter cheater pipe, or stand closer to the socket. You don't need to bounce or anything, just stand.

Minimum 3/4" drive for this much torque. You will split a 1/2" socket.

What a load of baloney about the Prodigy or P3... Too much braking? I can't believe sales people still think people will fall for that "this is all we sell" line.

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