This I have posted many times.. There are basically 2x2 types of inverters. The two types are Stand alone Inverter only and Inverter/Converter for one of the 2's and for the other True Sine Wave v/s Modified Sine Wave
Advantage Stand alones: Less expensive
Disadvantage: They only run batteries down, don't charge 'em so you have to have a seperate CONVERTER to charge 'em back up.. You may also need a transfer switch or a way to select between Shore Power and Inverter power
Advantage inverter/converters: They are "All in one" They contain an automatic transfer switch, and both a converter (usually a smart one) and in inverter in one box.. You feed them 120vac and they charge the batteries and pass power to their down-line loads. You take away the 120 volt main and they auto-switch to Inverter mode, drawing on those same batteries.. Another name for this type of device is UPS, cause they duplicate (And then some) the function of a UPS. the difference is where a UPS is capable of running it's loads for a few minutes(long enough for you to shut down politely) an inverter can run all day, all night and .. Well, depending on your batteries.. Keep on forever.
Disadvantage: Cost
I have a Xantrex Prosine. it is an inverter/converter
Next we have the issue of MSW/TSW
MSW Advantage... COST, they are cheap.
Disadvantage: MSW inverters do not put out clean power. They are in fact very dirty.. Where as a true sine wave inverter shows a nice smooth curve, a sweet pure note like that of a flute, the MSW is stair steps, More closely resembling Stair Steps, or to be more precise a Stile. This is very noisy containing many harmonics of 60 Hz. And the peak voltage is lower.. (Though the RMS is the same) so devices that rely on RMS, like light bulbs and heaters, Do not care, Devices with regulated supplies, like computers and printers, Usually don't care, Devices that rely on the peak, like microwave ovens. Cook slower or otherwise exhibit reduced performance. Devices which rely on the power line frequency (The timer in the microwave) may behave strangly.. Or not. Devices which are senestive to RF radiation (Like radios, televisions, and even sound systems) may have see the MSW inverter as "interfernece" and thus exhibit reduced performance or strange performance (IE BUzz in audio)
True Sine Inverters (The Prosine is a true sine)
The wave form is as pure as it gets, at it's worst it is the same as what comes out of the hole in the wall at home..... And often.. It's better.
Devices all work properly, they can not tell it from mains power. In fact if they can tell it from shore power it means your shore power is bad!
I run some very sensitive radios.. These are 2-way radios where I often chat with people all over the country with as little as 100 watts. and using digital modes I've chatted with other radio operators in places like Spain, Italy, Cuba and other countries around the world.. now on the average we are pushing less than 50 watts into the antenna (i normally push about 20-30)
Compare this with my local AM station, 50,000 watts (WJR 760 KHz) and some of the local television stations which make that look "Tame"
You know how senistive my radio has to be.
And it can not tell if the Prosine is in inverter mode or converter mode
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
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Okay..now to stir things up...I guess what I am looking for would be an inverter and a transfer switch? Would this allow me to invert my 12 volt battery power to 110 AC and send that power to the outlets? I'm trying to avoid running wire to outlets if I can tap into what is already there.
Do you have 12v outlets in the areas you want to use? If so, buy a couple of small (100 watt) inverters and plug them in. I have one of these Black and Decker 100 watt inverters
Wildman5427 wrote: Okay..now to stir things up...I guess what I am looking for would be an inverter and a transfer switch? Would this allow me to invert my 12 volt battery power to 110 AC and send that power to the outlets? I'm trying to avoid running wire to outlets if I can tap into what is already there.
I'll bet that $965 inverter in your first post has a transfer switch built in. It will do exactly what you want. You won't find a much easier/cheaper solution if you really want to tie it into the whole power grid of the MH.
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Wildman5427 wrote: Okay..now to stir things up...I guess what I am looking for would be an inverter and a transfer switch? Would this allow me to invert my 12 volt battery power to 110 AC and send that power to the outlets? I'm trying to avoid running wire to outlets if I can tap into what is already there.
Thanks,
John
With the automatic transfer switch your talking some serious $$$.
Perhaps have the inverters output feed an outlet located in your shore power cord bay. When you want to run on inverter, just plug the rigs cord into the outlet, and flip off the converter, water heater, and A/C breakers. Because running those items on inverter is a bad idea in general. They will suck the batteries dry in no time flat.
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The 2000 watt inverter you listed has a built in transfer switch rated 30 amps and could pretty much run the entire RV. It does not seem like that is what you need.
You need to decide how many watts you need. For multiple games and tv/dvd you probably only need 400 to 600 watts.
If you want to save money you will need to go with modified sine wave. I recommend sine wave but either will work. Some digtal controls and clocks have trouble with MSW and I have observed power bricks seem to run hotter.
You can buy a separate transfer switch and avoid a big honking inverter to get a transfer switch rated for the power needed when plugged into utility power.
If you use the existing distribution system and wiring, it is best to isolate the loads that are wasteful or will over power the inverter. You do not want to power the converter, fridge, water heater, microwave, air conditioner with a small or mid size inverter.
You can put the transfer switch before the distribution panel and turn these items off manually. But to use them with the generator you would need to turn them on so there is a bit of management that I sense will not go over well.
Or you can have the transfer switch after the main panel. If you can get by on one string of outlets that is easier. Most RVs have two or more stings of outlets. If you want them all you may need to add a sub panel. This set up avoids all the power management and only powers what is supposed to be powered.
With a WFCO converter I don't think you need to spend money on an inverter/charger. You just need an inverter.
Keep the 12 volt connection short and fat and the 120 volt connection can be longer. You may find you need one or two more batteries if you play a lot and want the furnace to run all night.
i ran 4 strands 8 ga from my batteries to my desk/entertainment area
2 strands for each pos and negative, i mounted a 400 inverter 600 watt surge under the desk, i plugged the tv dvd and pc and accesiores into a surge strip that i can plug into either the inverter or the wall outlet in the cabinet above
moving one (120v plug) moves the whole system from inverter to wall outlet and i did not have to change any internal RV wiring OR buy a transfer switch or change any breakers and no problems with auto-switches or failures, its manual operation move ONE cord for genny/shore power or inverter power
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All you really need is a small , say, 400 watt inverter for the TV and DVD player plus a receiver if you are going to satellite TV someday. The Yami 2400i really solves your problem. The 3 stage converter should bring the batteries back every day to top condition.
Sounds like you didn't fully explain your needs and your existing set up properly to Randy at Best Ptoducts. He would never sell you more than you need.
The previous posts have given you good advice and now that we know a little more about your situation, they can be very helpful.
Most RVs have all the receptacles on one or 2 circuits. I isolated the breakers in their own sub panel & then wired :FSELA:1123">this inverter, only in 1800 watts, to the sub panel. You will note it has a built in transfer switch. When on shore power it passes the shorepower through & when shore power is not present it powers the coach receptacles. Works perfect for my requirements. I agree with the arguments for pure sine wave but from your opening remarks that's not financially viable at this time. BTW I also have my genny wired into the coach via a separate transfer switch.
Dave
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Wildman5427 wrote: Okay..now to stir things up...I guess what I am looking for would be an inverter and a transfer switch? Would this allow me to invert my 12 volt battery power to 110 AC and send that power to the outlets? I'm trying to avoid running wire to outlets if I can tap into what is already there.
Thanks,
John
The answer is yes, it is also EXACTLY what Randy at Best converter suggested to you.. Randy don't call his company BestConverter for nothing.
He gave you an excelent suggestion.. I might quibble with him over wattage or brand but there is essently no difference between what he recommended and what I bought for my rig (A Xantrex Prosine 2.0)
I would take his advice.
HE told you the easiest and best way to do it
See my earlier post for why his suggestion is BEST, In it I cover all the options.
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