The house-feeder breaker is connected to three, ten-foot long, #6 conductors which pass through the wall and into the garage near the generatorwhile the other ends are protected and insulated until needed. The welder’s #2 welding cable is used to connect the generator to the #6 breaker conductors.
I don't quite understand why you are using the Welding Cable?????
All you need to do is use the 14-50R on the Bobcat and connect to the House Panel- Via a Transfer Switch, or a Deadman- but as was pointed out the Deadman is not Kosher.
The house-feeder breaker is connected to three, ten-foot long, #6 conductors which pass through the wall and into the garage near the generatorwhile the other ends are protected and insulated until needed. The welder’s #2 welding cable is used to connect the generator to the #6 breaker conductors.
I don't quite understand why you are using the Welding Cable?????
Yes, more info please traxtermax.
Dont tell me that you are trying to use the welding current connections to power the house. That will not work. You MUST use the 4 prong outlet and 4 wire cable just like the 50A RVs use.
I spend every day of my life trying to understand that other people in this world do things differently than I do.
Quote: I don't quite understand why you are using the Welding Cable?????
Welding cable is rated for 600 volts and used all the time for temporary wiring even in 480 volt installs. It's about the only thing you can use for large gen hookups as any other type wire would be unmanageable.
About earth grounding the Yamaha generator...
Yamaha has taken a conservative approach in the manuals for the inverter generators and says in no uncertain terms to earth ground them. For the purposes of this discussion, the Honda inverter generators are identical units, and Honda does not say to earth ground them. Honda instead says "Before using the ground terminal consult a qualified electrician, electrical inspector or local agency having jurisdiction for local codes that apply to the intended use of the generator". Hardly any users will ever follow either of these directions, and they are both there IMO for the sole purpose of the generator companies trying to duck any responsibility for grounding and bonding. The conflicting, complicated, and ambiguous rules from the NEC and other organizations make it more difficult to know what the right thing to do is. Here's what I consider 'for sure' information: (1) When plugging your RV into a small portable generator, an earth ground is not required, (2) A built-in RV generator is not required to be earth grounded, and (3) When properly hooking either to a house, it will be earth grounded via the house wiring and must not have a separate earth ground.
Quote: I don't quite understand why you are using the Welding Cable?????
Welding cable is rated for 600 volts and used all the time for temporary wiring even in 480 volt installs. It's about the only thing you can use for large gen hookups as any other type wire would be unmanageable.
Sam
Sam,
The Bobcat only puts out 9,500 Watts Continuous of genset Power
I understand Temp power - but #2 Welding Cable is good for 250amps @ 50'-
After stirring my memory banks a little, I can add the following:
The plug I’m referring to is on page 36 of the owners manual posted on this thread. Maybe I should have said “four connection points” or wires instead of conductors.
My Bobcat is an older version with an 8K output and an Onan engine.
I used to exhaust the Bobcat out the garage door and used welding cables to hook up the panel leads at the other end of the garage. Now, I have it near the leads and I no longer use the cable, just a short piece of #6 multi-conductor cable (hence the exhaust through the garage wall). I have to think about how to hook it up each time I use it since I may have only used it once, if that, after the 1998 ice storm.
Home built in-line GFCI with 30 amp TT connectors. Weather proof box with cover for outdoor use. Total cost of materials was $41. Max rating is 20 amps according to GFCI switch rating. But, when I tested the assembly at 28 amps for one hour, there was no measurable temperature rise or problem. All electrical parts are available from Home Depot. Pigtails are from Wal-Mart. I made it just to see how well it would work. I also have the $100.00+ commercial version.
The home built 50-50 amp GFCI in-line box I made was posted earlier in this thread. It works great as well!
The discussion within this thread has lead me to firmly believe and advise use of an in-line GFCI for all RV plug-ins from both generators and shore power. Darn cheap insurance against shock or injury from a ground fault, which can be an even greater possibility with a RV and outdoor environments.
Liquid tight connectors for use between cords and box.
Assembly in use. The neon light in the female socket down stream of the GFCI was an unexpected plus.
Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee. Also Oscar, the spoiled rotten Dachshund, Mechanicsville, VA
2009 Cedar Creek 34SATS 5th Wheel - 2004 Volvo VNL670 HDT Hauler Even a bad day camping in our RV is always better than a good day at work!
Nice writeup with pics for the homemade GFCI- question- would you feel comfortable running it 24x7 with AC, etc? What is the worst case scenario if it can't handle the current?
I see the commercial is $74 for club members, but it doesn't look waterproof.
2007 Keystone Laredo 29RL, 2000 Ford F250 SD 7.3 PSD, Firestone bags, Pressure Pro / Metal Stems. 16" Michelin XPS Ribs. MorRyde Pin Box. Dirt Devil CV950 Central Vacuum, 2000W AllPower by Kipor (Honda Clone), 4000/3500W Champion C46540, Honeywell 2000i
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